List of tools and supplies :
½ inch drive breaker bar 16 inches long
17mm socket
14 mm socket
12 mm socket (optional)
1.5 inch extension
Reversible ratchet, 3/8 drive standard length
Torque wrench (15 to 85 foot pounds) recommended
Large screwdriver or pry bar (recommended)
Floor jack (Duralast low profile or equivalent) and 2 stands
2 wood blocks 2 by 8, about 16” long each
Wood block 4 inches thick
White marking pen or equivalent
I used 14 mm box offset wrench cut out with cheater pipe to break lose 2 rear mount to x-member bolts.
1. Using tire changing jack, raise the right front wheel above the ground and place 2 by 8 wood block under wheel; lower the wheel on the block
2. Repeat same procedure for the left front wheel
3. Position floor jack under front x-member lifting point
4. Lift the front of the car and place jack stands at appropriate locations, slowly lower the car on the stands and roll away the jack
5. Set the parking brake and verify the car is securely supported
6. Get under car and identify appropriate fasteners
7. Mark the outline of two bolts on the black bracket
8. Mark the bracket to transmission position
9. Mark outline of the mount to x-member 14 mm front bolt
10. Optional: remove anti- vibration block form x-member using 12 mm socket (2 bolts)
11. Break all bolts loose; two rear mount to x-member bolts could be broken loose from the back using deep offset 14 mm box wrench
12. Support transmission housing by placing tire changing jack on 4” thk wood block; position it under cast boss near transmission housing split line.
13. Remove three 17 mm bolts and 2 side brackets
14. Completely remove 2 rear mount to x-member bolt using 14 mm socket with 1.5 extension
15. Remove the front mount to x-member bolt
16. Position new motor mount on the x-member frame and hand start all 3 bolts
17. Align the mount to x-member 14 mm front bolt with the painted outline and hand tighten it ;
18. Place both brackets on transaxle housing and hand start all there 17 mm bolts; align bolts to bracket and bracket to transaxle housing using reference marks made in steps 7 and 8; snag the bolts; remove jack from under transaxle
19. Hand tighten the rear mount to x-member bolts; torque tighten 17mm bolts (upper, lower and mount through bolt)
20. Torque tighten mount to x-member bolts ( front , than 2 rear ones)
21. Install anti-vibration block;
22. Release the parking brake and lower the front wheels on 2 by 8 blocks
23. Using tire changing jack, remove 2 by 8 blocks and lower car to the ground
PS Pictures will be uploaded later today

 

Pictures as promised:



Lifting pad on X-member



Old mount. The split is covered by side plate



Front mount to X-member bolt (14 mm)



Upper side plate to transaxle bolt (17 mm)



Removal of vibration canceling block makes access to the rear bolts easier



New mount is in place; all fasteners lined up perfectly

 

Hi,
sorry to bump an old but still relevant thread but how do you line the brackets back up with that tiny amount of space?

 

I use marker to outline an original location and a car tire changing jack to adjust the height of the transaxle housing. Once marking lines up can snag the bolts

 

I have got a Chinese version GD3 with a totally broken rear mount.
I have been trying to figure this out for a long time. There is few video tutorial about the rear mount replacement.
I went to a local work shop for help, they said they can not replace it without lower the subframe. Luckily I did not let them do it. It is a lot of work.

I finally figure it out. By using 3 knuckles of extensions and one universal joint, I managed to break the 2 upper bolts loose from the engine bay.
I use two plastic ramps and the original jack comes with the car for lifting. The whole job finished by me alone in 1-2 hours. Common hand tools. Easy cheesy.

Hope this would help you guys.