Hello. I just bought a 2007 GD3 Sport last week and left it at my dad's house since my wife was not with me to drive me to purchase the car. After reading about leaks, I wonder if mine has that problem or not.

California is experiencing heavy downpours right now and I HOPE the car doesn't have the leaking issue. I will be able to pick up the car tomorrow when I drop by and hope I'm not in for a surprise...

Anyways, what is the percentage of first gen's with this problem?

(I don't want to ask my dad to check bc he has other health issues to worry about right now)

 

Black cars tend to leak more often due to higher roof temperature during hot days.

 

Is heat the cause of the cracks in the roof rail/gutter?

 

Basically the fit is a very light structure, designed to shed energy in a wreck, Becasue of this it has rigid and flexible body sections that stress each other at the attaching points. Best thing you can do is buy some Polyurethane sealer and about once a year inspect all the seam areas, above the rear hatch and its sides and bottom edges, inside the spare tire wheel well and around all the a-pillars. anywhere you see a crack in the factory sealant squirt a little sealer in the cracks and smooth out with a finger wearing a nitril/latex or whatever glove. DO NOT USE SILICONE!!!!!!! it gives off gasses that can rust any exposed metal. Polyurethane is what often holds your windshield in... I use clear because I use it on my Jeep as well. Poly takes a day or so to dry
so its best to keep it in a dust free as possible garage or something till its dried well.

 

Be aware that there are two types of leaks.


The one that floods the spare tire well is usually due to cracks in the body seam sealer near the rear hatch opening. (Could also be caused by a leak around the tail lamp assembly)

The other leaks come from the doors. That is an issue with the weather seals inside the door panels. Check the carpets, both sides, F & R.

The second one can be tricky...water from the front door can dribble to the rear and soak the carpet back there. Yet, the rear doors can leak, also.



Both issues (and the fixes) are documented here. SEARCH for your answers...

++++++++++

As for the percentage: Who cares? You need to check YOUR car.

Ours has been fine in the rear and drivers side, but our RH back door has required attention.

 

well, after the rain you and I had last night, I can guarantee you that if you do have the crack near the upper right rear liftgate hatch hinge, or if your plastic has been compromised in one or two of the rear doors, you will certainly have a wet rear carpet and/or water in the spare tire wheel well this morning. If none, then you are good to go. Use your hand and go over the entire floor of the rear carpet. Unscrew the spare tire and see if any water has accumulated there and let us know.

 

Hello thanks for the tips.

I picked up the car today and checked for leaks. The front and rear carpet was completely dry and there is no water in the spare tire wheel well and it did not look wet either, although I do find the two hairline cracks at the hinges of the hatch.

For reference, the car was parked at my dad's house on the driveway with no awning of any sort so it sat in storm from yesterday/ this morning that hit California.

As mentioned above, should i really avoid silicone sealant and use polyurethane to prevent rust? I plan on sealing the cracks to prevent any leaks regardless since I am now paranoid.

 

I use clear marine silicone since 2011; had to renew it every 3 years. No rust under it.
Both of these leaks are result of cutting corners in design and testing in attempt to quickly release product to the market. Sort of the way Russians conquered the space.
The roof to the side panel connection may need additional welds and/or braces to minimize flexing. Inner door panels should be flat not curved
Sealing the cracks and panels is a band aid. Next failure will be electronic throttle body and electronic power steering control. Fukushima disaster is the result of same design approach!

 

I've been seeing the damage done by silicon since 1974 when I started installing sunroofs.. The Poly sealer is just way stronger than silicon, that's why the manufacturers use it to seal pretty much all the seams on most modern cars.
It wont cause rust every time,,,, but for the strength and not having to re-do it all the time I'll go with the polyurethane. Hey the fit is a commuter battle-wagon,,, not a ferrarri..

 

I used urethane Windowweld sealant on the side windows on my 87 Camry wagon, and it lasted about 1 year. The sealant fails on fit beacause of too much flexibility at the joints so flexible sealant has to be used, or it will crack. In the past, my cars (79 Supra Hatchback and 87 Camry wagon were leaking around the windows at the ages 13 and 19 years respectively), but not after 3 years. BTW Ferrari leaks a lot!