I plan to replace the brake fluid on Fit 2007.
I read, it requires Honda dot3. I found in forums some owners used any Dot3 , others replaced it with DOT 4, which has better characteristics, and also came across on warning not to switch to synthetic.
What is your experience? What type you use and what is the capacity of the system?
How to flush the system? Should I disconnect relay to ABC?
Please share your experience.

 

DOT 3 will likely suit most daily needs just fine; it's in my Fit. Bleeding a brake system can be done with one person and a tool like this [ V5 DIY Reverse Brake Bleeder - Phoenix Systems ] or [ https://www.motiveproducts.com/ ] or with two people with no special tool.

The job requires some patience, but isn't difficult. I disconnect the battery, though it probably isn't necessary. A 32 Oz. bottle should be more than enough; I forgot to note the quantity I used.

 

For the Fit, Honda recommends running at minimum DOT 3 brake fluid. Yes, DOT 4 can be used but may be a little overkill for most people that simply daily drive their Fit. DOT 5 is NOT compatible with our systems at all, the exact details to why currently escape me at this time.

DOT 3 vs DOT 4? DOT 4 actually has a higher boiling point than that of DOT 3 which is good if you are one to demand a lot from your brakes... Be it during frequent spirited drives, autocross/track days, etc.

I personally autocross and use which is a DOT 4 fluid and have been impressed with its quality in terms of service life as well as how consistent the brake pedal feels throughout same interval. Though... I change my brake fluid at the latest every 2 years or 30k miles due to how HARD I am on my Fit. Again, for most its overkill but that is the brake fluid I run. One 500ml bottle usually does the entire system with a little to spare... Having a second bottle on hand would be a wise decision though in case of accidental spillage.

Keep in mind, neither I nor Fit Freak will be responsible for any damages or injuries if any encountered during an attempt at brake fluid replacement.

Tool wise... Floor jack, 4 jack stands, at least a 32 ounce container (to catch brake fluid), a rubber hose that snugly fit on the bleeder screws and reaches the container, a 10mm wrench (calipers) and a 8mm wrench (drums).

Presuming that the car is already sitting even on jack stands with all four wheels off... I typically note the existing fluid level (this is kind of key, will explain later), peel back the cowl weatherstrip enough to remove the cowl access panel and suck out as much of the existing brake fluid from the reservoir as best as I can. Then top off the tank with fresh brake fluid. The old brake fluid will be going into the container so that the rubber hose can be submerged and not suck in air during the bleeding process.

After that, begin bleeding the brakes starting with the driver front caliper then working clockwise (as per Honda's bleeding sequence) until you end at the driver rear drum. Bleeder cap off, hose on, loosen bleeder about half a turn and pump. Generally speaking about 20 to 22 pumps are needed to clear each front caliper, 10 to 12 for the drums in the rear to clear out the old fluid. Once done tighten bleeder, put the bleeder cap on, top off fluid in reservoir and move to your next corner.

Once you're done bleeding all 4 corners make sure you top off close to your previously existing level. Why? Assuming that brake fluid never gets topped off or is leaking, this is a good "indicator" (but not guaranteed) to give you an idea on how much friction material is left on your brake pads and shoes. Mind you, this is not a substitute for inspected pads and shoes on occasion but a good "heads up" indicator. Just my two cents... you may top off as you wish/feel necessary.

Check how the brake pedal feels while the engine is off and after that, wheels on (lug nut torque is 80 foot lbs) and get the car down. You should be good to go after that.

Bonus points if you want to ensure that you are reducing the amount of air that can get back into your brake system while doing fluid replacements, you may want to look into getting Speed Bleeders. They feature a one way check valve inside that allows fluid and air out during pedal depression but seals off when you release the brake pedal. I've ran these for a few years and love them... Even have a few coworkers using them on their vehicles. They even come in handy when bleeding clutch cylinders as well.

 

Thank you so much for the tips and instructions!

 

Good write-up Hootie!


I'll just add that replacing or flushing fluid is less stressful than bleeding after replacing hydraulic components. Long as you don't empty out the reservoir, you shouldn't have to deal with air in the system.

My little vacuum pump has a small receptacle. So, I empty the old fluid into old glass jars, that makes it easy to see the difference in color, old VS new.

One other note: Many folks recommend placing a piece of 2x4 under the pedal when pumping. That minimizes pedal travel. The purpose is to avoid wearing the seals in the master cylinder when they move against the rough, corroded areas of the cylinder. (This is not an issue with clutch hydraulics, as the entire travel is always used.)

 

Thanks for mentioning Speed Bleeders Hootie. I'd forgotten about them and I should pick up a set.

 

Another reason to top off close to the previous level is foresight regarding what is going to happen if and when you replace brake pads in the future. Let say instead of filling to previous level you top off to the "maximum" line on the reservoir. In that case, when you replace the brake pads, withotu first removing the fluid from the reservoir, you will push the brake fluid level up to not only above the "maximum" line, but to above the top of the reservoir, out of the reservoir, and down the sides of the reservoir onto whatever is near and underneath the reservoir. You will make a mess. Alternatively, assuming that the last time the pads were installed, the reservoir was filled to the "maximum" line, assuming there are no leaks, and assuming brake fluid has not been added since then, then when you replace the pads, the level will go right back up to the max line, or close to it.

 

Empty the Master Cylinder first, then fill with fresh fluid, don't just pump the nasty old stuff through the system.
A turkey baster works pretty well , just don't pump the pedal till you have the new fluid in..
Oh and you should turn the car on and off a few times to cycle the ABS pump.

I use DOT 3/4 rated fluid, DOT 5 is fine, as long as the can is marked as Compatible with all DOT brake fluids,
The European DOT 5 thats bad is basically mineral oil with silicone in it and will ruin every rubber bit in the brake system.. Its usually very clearly labeled because except for a few exceptions they quit using it due to many issues it has.. Some Bikes use it..

The two important things to worry about with brake fluid,,
1. whats its rated boiling temperature.
2. How hydroscopic is it,, DOT 3 is the least and DOT 5 is the most, So of systems not being serviced a lot the DOT3/4 is the better choice.

Best deal on Brake fluid for all purposes used to be FORD "Super Blue", it was designed of heavy trucks that had juice brakes not air brakes.
IT boils at like 800 (Like Motul) Doesn't absorb water hardly at all. It used to be about 35 bucks a gallon at a truck dealer, I'm sure its gone up..

Oh,, there is absolutely nothing special about Honda Brake fluid,, Any name brand DOT 3 with the same rating as the Honda fluid will work..
Imagine the potential lawsuit,, "We used XYZ fluid and the car crashed because the brakes failed",, But the cap on the master just says DOT3.
Honda is WAY too proud of some of their parts stuff for me..

 

2015 Honda Fit owners manual, page 371, contrary to what @dwtaylorpdx says above about earlier model, "Brake fluid marked DOT 5 is not [emphasis mine] compatible with your vehicle’s braking system and can cause extensive damage." Manual says nothing about synthetic one way or the other. I was thinking about buying this stuff, Prestone DOT 3. Then I noticed that the bottle says "synthetic." It also says "good for all DOT 3 brake systems. Georgi6 says something about not using synthetic. So I'm not sure what to do. I don't want to spend twice as much on genuine Honda brake fluid.

 

Here is Prestone's product page for their DOT 3 brake fluid. The info I've dug up so far, somebody correct me if I am wrong, is that (1) DOT 3 absorbs water more slowly than DOT 4, and therefore does not need to be changed as often and (2) DOT 4 will continue to work without decomposing, at higher temperatures, in systems that put greater stress on the brake fluid. So you can brake harder and longer without causing the brake fluid to stop functioning properly,.however the drawback is that it absorbs water faster and so has to be changed more often. DOT 3 should work fine in all passenger cars. Racing cars and high-end sports cars may need DOT 4. So that is why Honda recommends DOT 3 and why "genuine Honda" brake fluid is DOT 3. Again someone correct me if I am wrong - hopefully with links to authoritative web pages. Apparently Prestone makes only "synthetic" brake fluid; both their brake fluid products, DOT 3 and DOT 4, are "synthetic."