Ok now it sounds like fuel in the tank should be ok.

Purge fuel line and injector rail of contaminated fuel?
Or did you made the engine run long enough it should have received fresh fuel to the rail by this time?

Recheck spark plugs for soot buildup?
Replace plugs if questionable?

Check engine light on? current fault codes?
Air filter and filter box lid are assembled now?

 

Ok today i redid the valves and cleaned the injectors applied dielectric grease on the boot and spark plugs.

Results:
1st attempt starting car was could not start without the assistance of starter fluid. No check engine light. Engine idles like a dream while in P. Able to cruse around the block going 10 mph. Only stalled once when i stepped on the gas. When the engine shifted gears it felt like
I experience a loss of power. Weird part was when i released my foot off the gas pedal it began to regain power and rev gauge went up. So i pulled over and assumed the computer just needed to relearn how to idle or my driving habits.

Pros: Started without killing myself, engine idles smoother, no check engine light, drove around the block.
Cons: Needed assistance to start, stalled once, loss of power when i pressed on the gas pedal in second gear.

2nd attempt: Started independently no starter fluid, drove around the block a few times, when the engine shifted it misfired, continued to run until i got home. Check engine light illuminated. When i tried starting the car again it would start and idle but when i placed the gear into D or R it would stall.

Pros: started on its own, drove around the block
Cons: misfired when shifted gears, check engine light on, stalled when shifted on to D or R.

Any ideas or clues on what could cause my problems. I've read that changing the coils might help with the misfires or loss in power. Thanks in advance.

 

If you removed gas pump before re-check your work. gas pump may have intermittent electrical connection or leaking regulator

 

I did. I bought a new fuel pump and replaced the old pump. How would i go about checking if it has a leak or intermittent electrical connection? Can anyone provide a diy guide or step by step instructions on that? Consoidering just calling it quits n get it towed to a shop. Thanks everyone for all the help!

 

Update: On my last attempt before i gave into taking the car to the shop i redid the valve adjustment again. Checked sparkplugs and coils and applied dielectic grease and anti sieze. Cleaned injectors, purged exsisting fuel in rail, line, and tank. Added new fuel.

Results: At first it needed assistance from starter fluid to start but since the last valve adj it seemed to idle much smoother and feels like a brand new motor. So i took it on a test drive. It seems l fixed the misfire issue and loss of power by adj vavles to their proper specs. After i took it around the block a couple times sucessfully i figured the comp needed to figure my driving habits so i place the car in park with no extra load (ie.a/c, radio, door n hood closed,etc.) and bring the rpm to about 3000+ and keeping it constant for about 5 mins and then took my foot off the gas pedal and let it idle for five min. Then turned off the engine and when i tried to start it up again... poof! Started up no problem. Tried it again and it started right up like a champ. Check the ob2 scanner it threw up two codes tho. P0171 and that my fuel cap was loose/exhaust leak or something. Any ideas?

Shout out and special thanks to all the people taking the time to read and respond to my issue. I couldnt have fixed the car without your advice and mentor. Thanks ya'll.

 

Are those current faults, or history?
Was the CEL on? Had it been on the whole time, ever since the diesel got in the tank? When was it last cleared/reset?

If you haven't already,
Erase the fault codes and let the computer start over fresh now that you have it running decent and driveable.
You might need to let it relearn idle again after clearing codes, some scanners seem to wipe that from memory when codes are erased.
See how it runs and go from there.
Chase fault codes when/if they return.





P0171 is a lean code, could be due to the contaminated fuel issues you've been going through. Could be intake or vacuum leaks. Lots of 'could be' things and you just had a whole lot of stuff disassembled.

Do you know the other code number specifically?

Did you get every last thing related to the fuel tank and its related systems reconnected and sealed up? Gasket and ring tight for the pump assembly, hoses and solenoids for the canister, things like that?

The PCM will run its self tests as you drive the car normally, it will let you know if it still finds problems.

 

Change the fuel filter, its more than likely completely clogged now.

 

so now that u fixed it, what do u plan to do with your girlfriend?

i joke.

 

Congrats on repairs.
P0171 code on MAP equipped car could be "marginal" AFR sensor, or low fuel volume. I have heard that tight valves cause rich exhaust when loose valves cause lean exhaust; on Honda V-6 (04 Pilot) tight valves caused P0172 code for one bank only!