Valve Adjusting soon
#1
Valve Adjusting soon
Ok, This week I plan to pull the top and adjust the valves as I seem to have loss some power. here is a little feedback on this.
Last month it seems I was losing a little ump on the get up and go... so I thought Id change the spark plugs and air filter. Well the #1 coil pack bolt was tight all the way out so I took it slow, the intitial loosening was super tight, it cracked and just super tight all the way out. So moving to #2 It too was super tight ( and I got some upper body strength too ) so it finally cracked loose ( which I though and caused my socket to fly off ) found the socket and went to get the bolt out, couldn't find the head....hmmm (feeling around) so I get a light and lo n behold..... it snapped off, pulled the coil pack and wouldn't luck have it, snapped flush even with the surface. So I go buy an angle drill and pull out my extractor set.. drilled the pilot hole then size it, the extractor wasn't budging it. I was afraid...SNAP ! well shit, so I jig around with it and get that one out ( hardened steel, cant drill em ) so I drill it out bigger, still the extractor wont budge it. SO, I just drill the whole bolt out. Bought a couple bolts and nuts and put the coil pack back on, returned the plugs.
Fast forward to today. I'm going to pull everything and the coils will be exposed since 3 and 4 were in assessable to do anything as why I didn't attempt it before. Now with the cover and all the stuff out of the way if the bolt snaps I can just drill them out. Just wondering if anyone else had to do this?
I thought of taking it to the dealer but I don't want them to snap one and say I need a whole new head or something. Any advice? Ive used PB blaster, WD40 and other penetrants to try and loosen these bolts but still tight and I left them alone... only for a few more days until I tear it down.
Last month it seems I was losing a little ump on the get up and go... so I thought Id change the spark plugs and air filter. Well the #1 coil pack bolt was tight all the way out so I took it slow, the intitial loosening was super tight, it cracked and just super tight all the way out. So moving to #2 It too was super tight ( and I got some upper body strength too ) so it finally cracked loose ( which I though and caused my socket to fly off ) found the socket and went to get the bolt out, couldn't find the head....hmmm (feeling around) so I get a light and lo n behold..... it snapped off, pulled the coil pack and wouldn't luck have it, snapped flush even with the surface. So I go buy an angle drill and pull out my extractor set.. drilled the pilot hole then size it, the extractor wasn't budging it. I was afraid...SNAP ! well shit, so I jig around with it and get that one out ( hardened steel, cant drill em ) so I drill it out bigger, still the extractor wont budge it. SO, I just drill the whole bolt out. Bought a couple bolts and nuts and put the coil pack back on, returned the plugs.
Fast forward to today. I'm going to pull everything and the coils will be exposed since 3 and 4 were in assessable to do anything as why I didn't attempt it before. Now with the cover and all the stuff out of the way if the bolt snaps I can just drill them out. Just wondering if anyone else had to do this?
I thought of taking it to the dealer but I don't want them to snap one and say I need a whole new head or something. Any advice? Ive used PB blaster, WD40 and other penetrants to try and loosen these bolts but still tight and I left them alone... only for a few more days until I tear it down.
#2
Man...sorry for your troubles. That does NOT sound fun!
I've always used PB Blaster and had good success, but I guess that isn't working here. A good friend of mine swears by Kroil. I've never tried it, but I trust his advise.
Another thing I'd give a try is putting a 1/4" socket extension on the head and hitting the extension with a hammer. See if you can jar it enough to loosen it some. Not trying to turn it. Just a dead smack on top of the head. Amazing how much a tap with a hammer can help.
Can also try doing it with the engine hot. Just be careful so you don't get burned.
I've always used PB Blaster and had good success, but I guess that isn't working here. A good friend of mine swears by Kroil. I've never tried it, but I trust his advise.
Another thing I'd give a try is putting a 1/4" socket extension on the head and hitting the extension with a hammer. See if you can jar it enough to loosen it some. Not trying to turn it. Just a dead smack on top of the head. Amazing how much a tap with a hammer can help.
Can also try doing it with the engine hot. Just be careful so you don't get burned.
#3
With the engine hot spray the bolt head with circuit chiller then gently try and turn the bolt out with a SMALL wrench.. Sometimes chilling the bolt on the warm motor will allow the bolt to shrink enough to break loose.
#4
The bolts are threaded into through holes. The penetrating mix ( kerosene, acetone and ATF) has to be applied from the bottom side (easier said than done!) to the warm (30-35 Degree C) engine (place rag on the heat shield /exhaust manifold during application!) than drive car for a short trip. Repeat this application few times. I used this method to remove stuck O2 sensor from cast iron manifold on full size GM car and it worked.
#5
Yes I tried both of those methods, chilling the bolt and getting penetrant from underside to the threads hoping it will help. I did it before and left it after the #3&4 wouldn't budge, added some recently in hopes it worked into the threads before I attempt it again maybe tomorrow. I really don't look forward to the headache but have to start somewhere right....lol
#6
Also invest in 11/32 or 3/16 left hand cobalt drill bit (it is not that expensive) for drilling out the broken part of the screw. The key point is to guide it correctly. I never saw or used this method on "in car" engine, however a drilling jig made from 5/8 by 3/4 steel bar containing 4 3/16" dia holes (which are counter bored to 6 mm dia over 5/16" length (to accommodate for sticking screw stumps) can be used for this job (it can be kept on the engine by adding two round cylinders 3/4 inch long (machined from plastic such as Delrin) which will fit into the spark plug wells let say on 1 and 4 cylinders).
So , remove intake plenum
next,drill the heads on the remaining bolts using 1/4" bit and remove the coils.
after that, drop the jig in place
then drill the bolts out while holding jig in place with your hand (I wish I would have an angle drill.)
At least this method will save threads on the head
So , remove intake plenum
next,drill the heads on the remaining bolts using 1/4" bit and remove the coils.
after that, drop the jig in place
then drill the bolts out while holding jig in place with your hand (I wish I would have an angle drill.)
At least this method will save threads on the head
#7
Also invest in 11/32 or 3/16 left hand cobalt drill bit (it is not that expensive) for drilling out the broken part of the screw. The key point is to guide it correctly. I never saw or used this method on "in car" engine, however a drilling jig made from 5/8 by 3/4 steel bar containing 4 3/16" dia holes (which are counter bored to 6 mm dia over 5/16" length (to accommodate for sticking screw stumps) can be used for this job (it can be kept on the engine by adding two round cylinders 3/4 inch long (machined from plastic such as Delrin) which will fit into the spark plug wells let say on 1 and 4 cylinders).
So , remove intake plenum
next,drill the heads on the remaining bolts using 1/4" bit and remove the coils.
after that, drop the jig in place
then drill the bolts out while holding jig in place with your hand (I wish I would have an angle drill.)
At least this method will save threads on the head
So , remove intake plenum
next,drill the heads on the remaining bolts using 1/4" bit and remove the coils.
after that, drop the jig in place
then drill the bolts out while holding jig in place with your hand (I wish I would have an angle drill.)
At least this method will save threads on the head
#8
I'm not sure what the maintenance history has been on the car, but I read similar posts from owners on other forums too. I feel so badly for you Sono. I suffered a broken bolt on my truck and its extraction was a failed mess.
I can't understand why people don't read tightening specifications, nor use a torque wrench nor anti-seize as they work. They could save themselves and others a lot of grief.
Gen2 coil pack bolts are to be tightened to only 6 FT/LB (72 IN/LB) and that's probably a match to yours. Sigh.
I wish you success with your work.
I can't understand why people don't read tightening specifications, nor use a torque wrench nor anti-seize as they work. They could save themselves and others a lot of grief.
Gen2 coil pack bolts are to be tightened to only 6 FT/LB (72 IN/LB) and that's probably a match to yours. Sigh.
I wish you success with your work.
Last edited by Alco RS-1; 10-03-2017 at 05:49 PM.
#9
On my Fit I tried 12 point socket and noticing that it was about to round the screw head, so I promptly switched to 6 point one and finished the job.
I can speculate that trough hole exposes entire thread to environment causing aluminum to corrode and jam the lower portion of the threads
I can speculate that trough hole exposes entire thread to environment causing aluminum to corrode and jam the lower portion of the threads
#12
I'm not sure what the maintenance history has been on the car, but I read similar posts from owners on other forums too. I feel so badly for you Sono. I suffered a broken bolt on my truck and its extraction was a failed mess.
I can't understand why people don't read tightening specifications, nor use a torque wrench nor anti-seize as they work. They could save themselves and others a lot of grief.
Gen2 coil pack bolts are to be tightened to only 6 FT/LB (72 IN/LB) and that's probably a match to yours. Sigh.
I wish you success with your work.
I can't understand why people don't read tightening specifications, nor use a torque wrench nor anti-seize as they work. They could save themselves and others a lot of grief.
Gen2 coil pack bolts are to be tightened to only 6 FT/LB (72 IN/LB) and that's probably a match to yours. Sigh.
I wish you success with your work.
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