Small update...

FastBrakes finished the lines and they are on the way to me. They also report to be working on that RSX caliper to Fit parking brake line adapter. Hope it works out.

Picked up a used Spoon Sports front strut bar. It's in rough shape so I've sanded it and will be plasti-dipping it black. Spent $15 for chrome button allen head fasteners, chrome washers, and stainless serrated nuts. I love high end fasteners. Send me to Ace to pick up fasteners for a project and I can guarantee I will find the most expensive option. LOL

 

https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/soca...boost-kit.html

Just dropping this here. =)

 

Thanks Hootie! That's a lot to think about.

The thing that bothers me with that route is that a replacement rotrex head unit is $2,000 while a ball bearing Garrett GT2860rs turbo runs around $1,000.

I sure like that top mount intercooler and plumbing though!

 

Yeah, that in itself is a tough pill to swallow when I replaced mine BUT the ease of maintenance and ease of install to me made it worthwhile. Plus at the time, I got it my C15-60 on sale.

 

I have PM'd about the Kraftwerks kit. It might be the path of least resistance to the power I want.

Small update...

Fit got retired again today. Not sent out to pasture, but got re-tired. As in I bought tires for it.

Now have Potenza RE-760's on the 16's and Hankook Ventus V2's on the 15" sport wheels. Haven't driven on the Hankook's yet, but already love the Potenza's. A quick test drive and I'm sold on their quietness and grip.

The Hankook's were just too cheap to pass up compared to other options. $67/tire for a v rated all season.

Here's the funny part. The Bridgestones - Made in Indonesia. The Hankooks - Made in USA.

The Bridgestone's may end up on a different set of wheels in the future, but I wanted something for now. The Rota's look soooo much better than the factory wheels.

 

Not a big update, but we scored some real JDM tail lights for the Fit. Took a bit of massaging and wiring extending, but they are in. Was surprised that the the LED panel, back plate, housing, and screws are all separate parts.

Before:



After:



Rolling on stock wheels right now because of cold weather. Will switch back to the 16's this week probably.

 

Wow thanks for the amazing info all in one thread! I've been missing out on lots of good stuff it seems. I wil put this CDV info to good use and do that soon also. Thanks again!

 

Be careful with clear taillights, someone rear ending you can sue you for tampering with your OEM safety equipment claiming you caused the accident. It's happened before over here in California. Otherwise looks great!

 

All clear is illegal. These meet DOT laws by having the red reflector. Same as tons of other OEM tails by Lexus, Toyota, Ford, Mitsu, etc. The red reflector is the key.

We used to have ones that were all clear. Ran them for years, but they were cheap eBay/Depot tails. The quality and legality of these are much better.

Thanks for the compliment!

 

Project is dragging on, but it's still a go. Just been doing other things lately. I have too many interests.

Have been gathering parts though. Have most of the bearings, gaskets, and seals needed for the differential and clutch install now. Also have a Megan downpipe to go with the turbo kit install. Got new OEM carpeted floor mats also.

Still waiting on FastBrakes to release their parking brake cable adapter brackets

Big item I still need is a Hondata. Anyone have a good lead on one for a discount? That and a set of BC Racing DS coilovers are my two largest ticket items left I believe.

 

are you on Facebook groups, TrueFitCrew and Honda Fit Marketplace? If so, make a post on there about Hondata. I just scored one used, saved myself 400 CAD. GOOD luck with the project, I too have too many interests and things on the go. 😁

 

On TrueFitCrew, but not Honda Fit Marketplace. I'll join that one as well. I'm not very FB active, but that would be worth it! Great score!!!

 

I hear ya, I prefer forums for the availability and ease of finding and organizing information, but most are on social media nowadays. I guess that means I'm old. Lol

 

*sighing and facepalming* TrueFitCrew is such a joke and a headache to a point where I even made my own group to have an alternative yet more formal and informative group with less BS involved. Not many people have posted in it yet but devmail and a few other quality posters are in it... Group name is L Series Advocates if you're interested in popping in.

Honda Fit Marketplace does have some good items that people up from time to time though. Definitely worth watching.

 

Hi Hootie! Just requested to join yours as well.

FWIW, I feel that is a problem with ALL social media. There's no accountability to provide factual information as the history is quickly wiped clean.

Overall, I just prefer forums, but I need current deals and offers. Sigh as well!

 

Cool, just seen that recently and added you.

I do agree... With social media groups as well as forums, there are just so many people that can easily post up waves of content that any legitimate factual information or detailed posting gets washed out by other "trending posts" or over run with repetitive babble (like wheel fitment and K Swap posts). With my group, I'm aiming to reduce the clutter of the bickering and provide more clear cut content so to speak. Thing is though, doing so can be a bit more difficult with social media groups since a MUCH wider number of users are on social media compared to general forums such as this one. While I do prefer forums as well, I just can't really knock the ability to communicate with other like minded users as well as more readily see for sale threads for potential parts.

 

 

Good to hear! I'm happy if any of this ends up being of use to others.

 

Still gathering parts.

Got a bit sidetracked and decided it needs the steering wheel moved closer to the driver pronto. I've been using the Fit for errands a bit and I realized, once again, how much I hate the driving position. Shifter is OK, seats OK, pedals are OK, but the steering wheel is just too far away.

Ordered a long adapter, quick release, and a real Mugen steering wheel tonight. Will take a few weeks to get from Japan, but will see how it works and see if I need to add even more spacers. Goal is to move it a solid 2" closer to the driver.

 

Ordered a few more part and made some decisions...

Decided that the turbo part of the build is going on the back burner. It will still be done, but I need to focus on getting the other stuff done first. Plus I decided I like almost no part of the Top Fuel kit that I bought. I'm sure that it would work great for a super mild set up, but that's not what I'm after. If I'm going to add boost, I want ALL of it Would probably be happiest if I could find a Kraftwerks kit. Just so much simpler.

I've been accumulating the stuff I need for the other parts and also getting some stuff to make it more enjoyable while N/A. To that end, I bought an AEM cold air intake, cheap eBay header, ordered an R18 throttle body and have been shopping camshafts.

Contacted Cat Cams and they recommended their 2503002 model. Advertised duration is 279/255. I'm having a hard time understanding why I would want that much variance between intake and exhaust duration. Especially on a turbo car. My limited turbo knowledge is that you want good flow on the exhaust side because boost will be present on the intake side regardless. Maybe I'm missing something? Their model 2503003 makes more sense to me, but it has quite a bit of lift. I would have piston to valve clearance concerns which has sent me down the rabbit hole of shopping pistons and rods.