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2007 fit a/c cold and warm

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Old Sep 3, 2018 | 02:40 PM
  #1  
Fit22's Avatar
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2007 fit a/c cold and warm

My 07 fit with 132xxx is struggling to blow cold air. It'll be cold and then the next 2 minutes it'll be warm and then it'll just stay warm if the trip is long enough. The fan and compressor comes on for 2 seconds and then shuts off right away. It will do that for the remainder if the a/c is on. If no a/c on, the fit runs perfectly fine. Anything helps.
 
Old Sep 3, 2018 | 10:22 PM
  #2  
doctor J's Avatar
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Condenser fan may be the prime suspect, line restriction (torn desiccant bag) is the second
 
Old Sep 4, 2018 | 02:13 AM
  #3  
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Search here for evaporator freezing. Yours is probably slightly low on refrigerant causing evaporation at temperatures below freezing level. (+32F)
 

Last edited by n9cv; Sep 5, 2018 at 10:30 AM.
Old Sep 5, 2018 | 08:43 AM
  #4  
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Are you on recirc or fresh air when this is happening? If fresh air, I recommend you try running on recirc the vast majority of the time- the only time I'd run fresh air is when it's hotter inside your car than outside.
 
Old Sep 7, 2018 | 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Fit22
My 07 fit with 132xxx is struggling to blow cold air. It'll be cold and then the next 2 minutes it'll be warm and then it'll just stay warm if the trip is long enough. The fan and compressor comes on for 2 seconds and then shuts off right away. It will do that for the remainder if the a/c is on. If no a/c on, the fit runs perfectly fine. Anything helps.
Check the relay for the AC system. It could be failing. If the fan and compressor only come on for 2 seconds, the chance that the evaporator is freezing is Slim to none.
 
Old Sep 7, 2018 | 03:36 PM
  #6  
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This excessive / short term on cycling is an indication of low refrigerant levels. The compressor kicks in and the input side drops below the low side minimum so the compressor kicks back off again. Short duration on followed by longer duration off cycling is an indication of insufficient refrigerant. While the relay is a remote possibility, usually a failing relay will just fail to come on either intermittently or completely and not just drop out after it is engaged.

Anything is a possibility. We are all just guessing here without the benefit of seeing the actual failing vehicle. If I had it in front of me, the first thing I would do is throw a thermometer in the air vent and set of gauges on it and see what the low (input) side, and maybe the high side, of the compressor is doing.

I'll stay with my original guess - low refrigerant. I have been known to guess wrong.
 
Old Sep 7, 2018 | 08:31 PM
  #7  
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Originally Posted by n9cv
This excessive / short term on cycling is an indication of low refrigerant levels. The compressor kicks in and the input side drops below the low side minimum so the compressor kicks back off again. Short duration on followed by longer duration off cycling is an indication of insufficient refrigerant. While the relay is a remote possibility, usually a failing relay will just fail to come on either intermittently or completely and not just drop out after it is engaged.

Anything is a possibility. We are all just guessing here without the benefit of seeing the actual failing vehicle. If I had it in front of me, the first thing I would do is throw a thermometer in the air vent and set of gauges on it and see what the low (input) side, and maybe the high side, of the compressor is doing.

I'll stay with my original guess - low refrigerant. I have been known to guess wrong.
I agreed that a low refrigerant charge could cause the low side to go so low that the low side sensor will kick in and turn off the compressor. I also agreed that the only way to find out what is the problem is with a set of gauges connected to the low side and the high side of the system. If the original poster doesn't have the gauges or isn't able to perform this task I would suggest that he bring his car into a tech that can perform this.
 
Old Sep 7, 2018 | 09:01 PM
  #8  
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OP never responded so let's stop guessing
 
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