When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
2nd Gen GE8 Specific Fit Engine Modifications, Motor Swaps, ECU Tuning Sub-ForumThreads discussing engine mods/swaps/tuning for the 2nd generation GE8 Honda Fit.
I’m going to turbo my 2009 5MT and wanted some advice on upgrading my pistons, rods, and clutch
simply put, is there a general consensus on how much power I could put on them... and I say this with some BIG air quotes... safe-ish?
i remember my b5 Passat 1.8t had good stock pistons but terrible rods.
I saw on one one of the posts about boosting that the stock block is good for 200 whp without blowing a rod through the block. But the same thread the user threw a rod due to bad fuel and knock but “the race was on”
so far I see Action Clutch is the only one making a “staged definitive” series.
A lot of it depends on the tune. Don't know of anyone who has pushed the stock engine very hard. 200HP is probably managable with a bullet proof tune but it is almost 2x the factory output so it would worry me.
A lot of it depends on the tune. Don't know of anyone who has pushed the stock engine very hard. 200HP is probably managable with a bullet proof tune but it is almost 2x the factory output so it would worry me.
Im pretty good at tuning. I boosted my old TSX and it put down some good power with a low knock control steady. Although tuning 4 different vtc maps for high and low cam was a pain
I think that is about were the SC kit gets the GD Fit. I think that would be good sweet spot for how light the car is. Tuning experience is great. Good luck!
Originally Posted by silverrose12
i have 2018 fit and was hoping to get to about ~200 whp but no turbo kit XD
Im pretty good at tuning. I boosted my old TSX and it put down some good power with a low knock control steady. Although tuning 4 different vtc maps for high and low cam was a pain
mind sharing with us, some resources of how ya learned to tune? that is pretty impressive!
mind sharing with us, some resources of how ya learned to tune? that is pretty impressive!
The main thing about tuning is watching your short term fuel trims. That’s what adds or removes fuel when you’re not going wot.
A stock ignition table is a good starting point until you get to boost. For boost it calculated a percentage drop per pressure gained. Example: every pound of boost reduce timing by x amount
I drop my ignition timing by 5 immediately before tuning to be safe. Start tuning slow. Don’t go balls to the wall on the first run. Take a log doing a specific type of driving. Like part throttle in 3rd gear. Take multiple runs in the same scenario so it’s easier to distinguish in the logs.
If if you have vtc (the GE does not) then make changes to entire columns at first through all the maps going up in advance.
Also set your vtc limits instead of the desired vtc angle. Start with a limit of 8. Tune the 0 map applying percentage changes to all of the maps. Adding 10% fuel to mbar 500 at 3000 rpm? Apply that to the 10, 20, 30, and 40 map.
When the 0 map is done, change the vtc limit to 18. Make a change and apply it to the 20, 30, and 40 map.
Same thing all the way to the 40 map which should be just 40, not 48.
Once fuel is dialed in now it’s time for timing. download virtual dyno. You’ll need your gear rations and final drive info. This will let you stick in a wot log and see how much power you’re putting down. It’s not important of the actual whp and wtq you’re looking at but the variations. Add timing somewhere and check for knock control value. Anything above 40 needs tuning. Below 40 is semi-ok. Below 20 is really good. You add timing and fuel until you get either knock or no gain in power and then pull back.
Im writing this on my phone so I may be missing something. When tuning boost it takes tons and tons of patience. Because if you don’t you’re likelihood of a vroom vroom boom is very likely.
The main thing about tuning is watching your short term fuel trims. That’s what adds or removes fuel when you’re not going wot.
A stock ignition table is a good starting point until you get to boost. For boost it calculated a percentage drop per pressure gained. Example: every pound of boost reduce timing by x amount
I drop my ignition timing by 5 immediately before tuning to be safe. Start tuning slow. Don’t go balls to the wall on the first run. Take a log doing a specific type of driving. Like part throttle in 3rd gear. Take multiple runs in the same scenario so it’s easier to distinguish in the logs.
If if you have vtc (the GE does not) then make changes to entire columns at first through all the maps going up in advance.
Also set your vtc limits instead of the desired vtc angle. Start with a limit of 8. Tune the 0 map applying percentage changes to all of the maps. Adding 10% fuel to mbar 500 at 3000 rpm? Apply that to the 10, 20, 30, and 40 map.
When the 0 map is done, change the vtc limit to 18. Make a change and apply it to the 20, 30, and 40 map.
Same thing all the way to the 40 map which should be just 40, not 48.
Once fuel is dialed in now it’s time for timing. download virtual dyno. You’ll need your gear rations and final drive info. This will let you stick in a wot log and see how much power you’re putting down. It’s not important of the actual whp and wtq you’re looking at but the variations. Add timing somewhere and check for knock control value. Anything above 40 needs tuning. Below 40 is semi-ok. Below 20 is really good. You add timing and fuel until you get either knock or no gain in power and then pull back.
Im writing this on my phone so I may be missing something. When tuning boost it takes tons and tons of patience. Because if you don’t you’re likelihood of a vroom vroom boom is very likely.
I appreciate the detailed post. and much respect as it would appear that you have the concept down.
this is something I've low keyed been wanting to try out for the longest time.
I appreciate the detailed post. and much respect as it would appear that you have the concept down.
this is something I've low keyed been wanting to try out for the longest time.
Thanks. It’s been a lot of trial and error.
With th short term fuel trim, anything plus or minus 10% needs to be changed. It should go up to 30% plus or minus but by that time it will probably start pulling a ton of timing for knock or just run like crap.
I ram my virtual dyno in 3rd gear pretty religiously and got good numbers for timing.
On my TSX I actually limited the VTC to 18 degrees even though I had a 50* RBC in there. It would drop power past 25 degrees because of blow through.
Finding the sweet spot for vtec engagement is also trial and error. Forgot to mention that when you’re tuning the low cam, to set the vtec crossover high (like 5500 or 6000) to tune the majority of the map. When tuning vtec high cam, set it kinda low like 3500. Not super low because oil pressure will be too low and cause engagement issues. Normally I ran 4500 rpm crossover.
If your vtec crossover has a low a low and high setting that’s used for multiple engagements based on map pressure. For example, out of boost vtec would cross over at 5500. In boost it would crossover at 4500.
So i found out that 187wtq at 4000 rpm through 5500 rpm is what the stock motor could take at 180,000 miles. 10.5psi by the way with an electronic boost controller.
Oddly enough, there was no knock detected. Just a 3rd gear pull coming close to 6500 and then... BOOM! and crap flying out behind my car.
Just bought some new JE Pistons with a lower compression ratio and a used motor with 98K. Going to build the block this time and throw on my old T04e turbo from my Acura. Probably going to be too big but i figure i'll give it a whirl just because.
