So, thanks to a small pay increase I should have an extra ~$300 available per paycheck starting in January. I think I'm ready to make the jump on getting boosted.

Goals:
Boost 6-8 psi ~ 160-170bhp by the end of March
*Maybe* Boost 10-12 psi ~ 190-210bhp by the end of july
Tune myself
Stock internals
Stock compression
Keep it simple, cheap, and ghetto
Leave lots of room for improvement and upgrades through end of fall 2011










Parts

• November - Weapon R header (ordered)
• December - Buy Christmas Presents no turbo joy
• January 1st - buy crappy but durable, internally wastegated, easily replaceable $250-$300 turbo (ala t25/tb25 preferably t28 space permitting); universal t25/28 weld on exhaust inlet flange $25; universal t25/28 5 bolt downpipe elbow flange $40-$50
• January 15th - buy oil and coolant lines/fittings $50-$75; Go to local exhaust shop and have weapon r header cut in half. Weld inlet flange to top of WR manifold near collector, dimensions permitting. Weld downpipe to bottom of WR manifold. Test fit a million times. Put stock cat back on. $100-$200
• February 1st - Buy universal front mount intercooler, charge pipes, Cheap BOV, tons of couplers and t clamps $250-$300. Find a way to implement stock MAF and MAF calibration tube $20.
• February sometime - Tax return $500-$1000 dollars, buy AEM FIC ~$500. Possibly boomslang harness, but if not, I have the soldering skills and cajones to cut the ecu harness myself not to mention the esm pin diagram to make it happen. Wire it up and then use bypass jumper.
• February end of month - Buy AEM UEGO $150-$200; Boost gauge $50-$100
• March 1st - Get some 410cc rdx injectors (or similar) $300; MOCK UP TIME!!!
• Tenative - Get decent base map
• Tenative - In between paychecks learn EVERYTHING about tunning AEM FIC
• Tenative - Tune that $&*^@ (already have colder plugs)
• Tenative - Monitor intake temps to decide if Water to Air intercooler is needed to replace fmic
• Tenative - Have shitloads of fun along the way

Can I make it happen?
Maybe I should sell the nitrous kit to make it happen faster If we get a real harsh winter I'll throw the new snowblower in the pickup and make some extra money clearing driveways.

 

hope it goes well g.

 

You have a PM

 

Updated plans to t28, space permitting

 

Replied...

Here is something to consider because of where the turbo is located in our engine bay, and that even with a turbo blanket and header wrap, radiating heat will hurt your compressor inlet temperatures and subsequently IATs, this will put off heat soaking the IC and engine bay as well:

 

January 1st 2011. Project completed. Under budget and ahead of schedule.

Please contact me if you have turbo'd a usdm 2nd gen honda fit, because I can find nothing with google, fitfreak, anything showing anyone else. It would seem only the people of japan and thailand have done it thus far.

 

Pictures requested!!! Congrats btw and +rep. Do you have a full parts list for this and appx price that it cost to do? This excites me.

 

wow......this is awesome! pics would be awesome. if this works for you with no problems, patent that shit! get it to a company, and your set, along with all of us

 

awesome. can't wait to see the details.

i still have my stock t25 off my old sr20. i wonder if i can use this?

 

I could be wrong of course, or maybe they all just swapped out for the T28... but I thought the OE turbo for the SR20DET was a T28?

Either way it depends on the flanges on the turbine side more than anything. The inlet needs to be T25/28 4 bolt, mitsu flanged or Open T3 Garrett if you want to just buy a new manifold from what is available, but the outlet can be whatever you want because you will need to have an exhaust shop make you a downpipe.

A segregated wastegate recirc or a wastegate dump would be a good idea.. ask Lyon what he thinks about that in hindsight

An OE T25 off a 2.0L like your Nissan would be perfect, about the absolute smallest I would go actually.

If you can get me some part numbers or some numbers of the compressor and turbine housings I can get you some more info, flow numbers, expected spool etc.

Or you can get yourself an R18 collector-header and modify it a bit or call up Neukin and get theirs for ~$190 new.

The rest is pretty easy from there. Then it's time to buy a few text books on tuning, and we can help with the rest.

 

I want pictures sound clips videos and full access to your files !

 

S13 SR20s 91-97 were T25 S14 and S15 SR20s from 94-02 were T28