Cheapest way to get more HP/Acceleration?
Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,304
From: Illinois
Now If ya really what sum mo power try "poppa's recipe" go to Wal-Mart and get ya a big 'ol box of mothballs, Nathalene, a 32oz. gator aid bottle, 1 gallon of WD-40, and cheap fuel injector cleaner-stp. fill the bottlle w/ mothballs, 8oz. of cleaner & 8oz. of wd40 and let set up for 7 days. pour 1oz per gallon of hi test and the mpg is better and the aceleration pulls harder. I've used it for 25k in my Fit and would not run a tank w/o "Poppa's Receipe" in it. Yeeeeha!
PS don't let your dog drink it ............... Moonpie was under them sawhorses fer a week bfor he cum outta dare!
Big Mike
PS don't let your dog drink it ............... Moonpie was under them sawhorses fer a week bfor he cum outta dare!
Big Mike
Berryman would probably eat the plastic bottle, but a glass mayonnaise jar would work.
Last edited by SilverBullet; Apr 12, 2011 at 09:51 PM.
Schoat333, i wouldnt say dsm is being some kind of elitist. he is just biased thats all. he is a boost guy and he prefers his method of increase in power the way he knows best which is boost by turbo.
he is not knocking on NA tuning. all he is stating is the fit has a way of neutralizing any and all gains from bolt ons due to the ecm programming.
though dsm speaks some truth i wouldnt say all gains are lost because my i can feel my fit has better response with my added bolt ons(mainly sri and ik22).
he is not knocking on NA tuning. all he is stating is the fit has a way of neutralizing any and all gains from bolt ons due to the ecm programming.
though dsm speaks some truth i wouldnt say all gains are lost because my i can feel my fit has better response with my added bolt ons(mainly sri and ik22).
I appreciate the support but I think Schoat's ire was directed more towards Occam's stance on L15 modding.And there are points where I agree with both of them actually.
I do actually like NA tuning, and when I get my FIC on thursday I hope to start wiring it in over the weekend. I will be starting my tuning NA as an experiment really, so that should be fun.
Then when I am comfortable with the state of the Laser (which came out of hibernation today!
) I intend to slap the rest of the go fast bits on the GD3!The b16a is a prime example of a good base for N/A power. Cams, head porting and headers with a good tune. 200 wheel hp is easy. It also revs to 9000 rpm's and the L1.5 motor is not capable of that so the best way is to Turbo. Ive seen B18 tricked out running 11.7 seconds all motor in a Civic. Ive also seen a stock K20 running 20 pounds of boost in a Acura Integra running 11.6. Its all about the set up and tune.
You are right exactly though, you need a cam, P&P and some springs to even think about spinning 9k rpm out of the L15!
Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,304
From: Illinois
The napthalene balls sublime when left in air, and I know people who would simply pack their air-boxes with them on the inlet side of the filter!
No kidding!
I finally got some of the more annoying quirks on the Laser resolved today... only to find more. My WB O2 sensor was dying and my 19 year old knock sensor finally started dripping goo out the back so they both had to be replaced.
And now that the weather is warm I had to re-do my injector deadtime v. voltage adjustment table, so my global fuel settings had changed. I also forgot that my Stoich ratio was set for E10 gas So I was running .6 pts leaner than I wanted under cruise.
OCD makes tuning painful sometimes. It becomes a war of endurance and attrition.
My Combined FT's are finally zeroed, all the way till I hit the gas and there is a pocket of cells in the tip-in region disagreeing with something and I spike super lean.
So I had what was supposed to be the first cruise of the year cut short when I started seeing the WB head towards 17:1AFRs.
This meant I had to lock it in open loop and throw the fuel sliders 30% lean just to make it home safe.
My turbo oil return line started dripping too, like a copious amount of oil, so I have to see what thats about. But by the time everything else was sorted I had to go and do a tutoring session for an 8th grader and didn't feel like dropping the subframe and distending the other 3 motor mounts.
I have a new 3" SS downpipe coming to replace my old ghetto fab exhaust, and because the car is going to full race mode this year I may just slap a turn down at the end of the downpipe and call it a day
I finally got some of the more annoying quirks on the Laser resolved today... only to find more. My WB O2 sensor was dying and my 19 year old knock sensor finally started dripping goo out the back so they both had to be replaced.
And now that the weather is warm I had to re-do my injector deadtime v. voltage adjustment table, so my global fuel settings had changed. I also forgot that my Stoich ratio was set for E10 gas So I was running .6 pts leaner than I wanted under cruise.
OCD makes tuning painful sometimes. It becomes a war of endurance and attrition.
My Combined FT's are finally zeroed, all the way till I hit the gas and there is a pocket of cells in the tip-in region disagreeing with something and I spike super lean.
So I had what was supposed to be the first cruise of the year cut short when I started seeing the WB head towards 17:1AFRs.
This meant I had to lock it in open loop and throw the fuel sliders 30% lean just to make it home safe.
My turbo oil return line started dripping too, like a copious amount of oil, so I have to see what thats about. But by the time everything else was sorted I had to go and do a tutoring session for an 8th grader and didn't feel like dropping the subframe and distending the other 3 motor mounts.
I have a new 3" SS downpipe coming to replace my old ghetto fab exhaust, and because the car is going to full race mode this year I may just slap a turn down at the end of the downpipe and call it a day
Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,304
From: Illinois
Napthalene has a low octane compared to premium. 92 or so but also has some side effects too. Plugged fuel filters.
Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,304
From: Illinois
No kidding!
I finally got some of the more annoying quirks on the Laser resolved today... only to find more. My WB O2 sensor was dying and my 19 year old knock sensor finally started dripping goo out the back so they both had to be replaced.
And now that the weather is warm I had to re-do my injector deadtime v. voltage adjustment table, so my global fuel settings had changed. I also forgot that my Stoich ratio was set for E10 gas So I was running .6 pts leaner than I wanted under cruise.
OCD makes tuning painful sometimes. It becomes a war of endurance and attrition.
My Combined FT's are finally zeroed, all the way till I hit the gas and there is a pocket of cells in the tip-in region disagreeing with something and I spike super lean.
So I had what was supposed to be the first cruise of the year cut short when I started seeing the WB head towards 17:1AFRs.
This meant I had to lock it in open loop and throw the fuel sliders 30% lean just to make it home safe.
My turbo oil return line started dripping too, like a copious amount of oil, so I have to see what thats about. But by the time everything else was sorted I had to go and do a tutoring session for an 8th grader and didn't feel like dropping the subframe and distending the other 3 motor mounts.
I have a new 3" SS downpipe coming to replace my old ghetto fab exhaust, and because the car is going to full race mode this year I may just slap a turn down at the end of the downpipe and call it a day
I finally got some of the more annoying quirks on the Laser resolved today... only to find more. My WB O2 sensor was dying and my 19 year old knock sensor finally started dripping goo out the back so they both had to be replaced.
And now that the weather is warm I had to re-do my injector deadtime v. voltage adjustment table, so my global fuel settings had changed. I also forgot that my Stoich ratio was set for E10 gas So I was running .6 pts leaner than I wanted under cruise.
OCD makes tuning painful sometimes. It becomes a war of endurance and attrition.
My Combined FT's are finally zeroed, all the way till I hit the gas and there is a pocket of cells in the tip-in region disagreeing with something and I spike super lean.
So I had what was supposed to be the first cruise of the year cut short when I started seeing the WB head towards 17:1AFRs.
This meant I had to lock it in open loop and throw the fuel sliders 30% lean just to make it home safe.
My turbo oil return line started dripping too, like a copious amount of oil, so I have to see what thats about. But by the time everything else was sorted I had to go and do a tutoring session for an 8th grader and didn't feel like dropping the subframe and distending the other 3 motor mounts.
I have a new 3" SS downpipe coming to replace my old ghetto fab exhaust, and because the car is going to full race mode this year I may just slap a turn down at the end of the downpipe and call it a day
i was saying more like fast and furious style with "he's got enough NOS in there to blow himself up!"
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 61
From: USA
So, just out of curiosity, replacement parts can I buy that are LIGHTWEIGHT?
Just hypothetically, if I replace as many parts as I could with their lightweight counterparts, I would probably get exactly what I want without adding any horsepower?
Here's what I know of:
Wheels/tired (Definitely doing this)
Pulley? ( I hear people talk about this, what pulley are they talking about)
Flywheel
anything else aside from taking out the back seats? I use my fit entirely for cargo space anyways, rarely eve have more than just me and a passenger in it.
Just hypothetically, if I replace as many parts as I could with their lightweight counterparts, I would probably get exactly what I want without adding any horsepower?
Here's what I know of:
Wheels/tired (Definitely doing this)
Pulley? ( I hear people talk about this, what pulley are they talking about)
Flywheel
anything else aside from taking out the back seats? I use my fit entirely for cargo space anyways, rarely eve have more than just me and a passenger in it.
In all seriousness one of my considerations for the future will be throwing some small single stage nitrous on top of my Gas/Meth/Turbo setup if I get stuck below my goals or bored if I actually accomplish them. "Them" being at least 250whp on a stock longblock and if that works out 300whp is the next step.
A 35shot can actually put over 70whp extra down in a boosted setup. This will not likely be done on stock pistons/rods though.
I think a lot of people misunderstand NOS systems, and they really get a bad rep from people who have no business using them.
Except for the inconvenience of having to constantly fill the bottle and maintain pressure with a bottle heater.. not to mention the legalities.. NOS is the best $/hp mod for a stock, well anything really.
Just retard timing and let 'er rip.
A 35shot can actually put over 70whp extra down in a boosted setup. This will not likely be done on stock pistons/rods though.
I think a lot of people misunderstand NOS systems, and they really get a bad rep from people who have no business using them.
Except for the inconvenience of having to constantly fill the bottle and maintain pressure with a bottle heater.. not to mention the legalities.. NOS is the best $/hp mod for a stock, well anything really.
Just retard timing and let 'er rip.
Last edited by DiamondStarMonsters; Apr 12, 2011 at 11:43 PM.
NOS system? the "system" part is already part of the Abbreviations silly. on a more serious note, why not? he did say "cheap" horse power gain.
on a more serious note, why not? he did say "cheap" horse power gain.
So, just out of curiosity, replacement parts can I buy that are LIGHTWEIGHT?
Just hypothetically, if I replace as many parts as I could with their lightweight counterparts, I would probably get exactly what I want without adding any horsepower?
Here's what I know of:
Wheels/tired (Definitely doing this)
Pulley? ( I hear people talk about this, what pulley are they talking about)
Flywheel
anything else aside from taking out the back seats? I use my fit entirely for cargo space anyways, rarely eve have more than just me and a passenger in it.
Just hypothetically, if I replace as many parts as I could with their lightweight counterparts, I would probably get exactly what I want without adding any horsepower?
Here's what I know of:
Wheels/tired (Definitely doing this)
Pulley? ( I hear people talk about this, what pulley are they talking about)
Flywheel
anything else aside from taking out the back seats? I use my fit entirely for cargo space anyways, rarely eve have more than just me and a passenger in it.
The rest will be bafflingly expensive.. lexan windows, CF doors, CF hatch, CF hood, CF roof.
Lightweight front seats, removed back seats.. any unnecessary plastic bits.
You don't want to tin-can the Fit too much or you will likely regret commuting in it.
I would say go for it but he has no control over timing/fueling to accomodate the N2O
Enjoy your +200k rep for making me actually LOL
Last edited by DiamondStarMonsters; Apr 12, 2011 at 11:51 PM.
lol. Abbreviation fails. i think i have a new thread over at the off topic section.
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 61
From: USA
People do that all the time... PIN number, ATM machine, etc etc.
as DSM said, flywheel, pucked clutch and pulleys will give you the best gains! as for pulleys, don't go underdrive or you'll screw up your electrical system... wheels and tires will also give you good gains!
CF parts are part of sprung non-rotating mass... so these won't give high results...
CF parts are part of sprung non-rotating mass... so these won't give high results...
When you are talking about a cheap gain in performance I think the reduction of rotating mass by getting lighter wheels is the least costly overall for the amount of performance you acquire..... They are the least labor intensive, have no negative impact on other components and in fact lessen the load on drive train, suspension, steering and brake components... If you decide to sell your car, you can change back to stock wheels and sell your wheels right here on FitFreak or anywhere else online where there is a market for them.. Lighter wheels and tires are by far going to improve your performance more than anything else you can do a car with an engine as small as these cars come with and have no negative impact on resale value and you don't even have to get dirty to swap them out.
