This is an eaton m45. The above motor should turn about 6000 RPMs under load - right through the most efficent area, not quite as many cubic meters as we would like to see but close. Could go with an m62 so we can turn it slower.

 

Better yet, I really like the M62 for this:

 

Okay so we have a motor and a supercharger...

Is 13 hp enough to get the ~280 cubic meters I want at about a 1.7 P/R?

The answer is yes. It's about 14 hp to make a 2.0 P/R @ 200 CFM (~320 M^3) so we will be right at the edge but good. Estimating 65% efficency

 

batteries would not be an issue. powersports like jetskis use a 18 or 20 Ah battery and are around 20-30 brand new.

search ebay for AGM battery 12 volt. lots of sizes. I think they go upwards of 50Ah, which would be PLENTY to run heavy electronics, yet be fast charging, and durable

 

Lead Acid batteries AH ratings are done at .1C. On a 50 ah battery that is 5amps. We are talking about 200 Amps. Even on giant 50ah batteries that is 4C. At 4C a lead acid battery only puts out around 40% of it's rated capacity and voltage sag is awful. The only reason we use lead acid still is because it's the cheapest way to get a starter to crank for 10 seconds.

 

I do not believe they rate AGM batteries anywhere near lead acid.

My car audio battery is an SVR rated to 18Ah and says it supports a 600rms system for 4 hours at 12.6 volts, no other draws. impressive for something that is like 3 by 5 by 6, tiny lil thing

 

Am I reading correctly that these batteries are $300? that's $1200 for 4.

 

well, my specific battery is 45-60 depending on which website. it is identical to a cheaper no-label that sells for $35.

4 of those would easily supper even a forklift electric motor, and run you under $150

 

No, the leaf blower gave it about 40whp. It says "Plus NOS", so maybe that's help quite a bit.

 

shows right in the video they got 9.something ponies on that rsx

not 40.

 

ok, I got a few years of competitiv solar vehicle racing under my belt (admittingly this was a decade ago).

The electric supercharger argument I think is really only valid as discussed as an alternate to NOS (drag racing or the rare light pull kinda thing). The older variants I use to see of scammish-yet-sincere eSC kits used a trio of astroflight motors (I use to use these for battlebots and can confirm they had a pretty kick-ass 0.7hp each and were very compact). They are not enough to cut it and I don't think the hobbiest RC stuff has the gusto needed for this. you need a pancake style motor for packaging purposes. The Briggs and Stratton eTek motor (and its derivatives) are going to be your best bet. Not significantly larger in dimensions than the turbo housing itself, they have options between 10 and 30hp. This motor is generally used in golf carts. They can certainly be overpushed. I use to be able to run mine at 30V pumping 2000amps (not a typo) for about 10 seconds before the solder would melt off the connections. Hell if you just wanted to get your foot in the door, some modifications to a $10 ford radiator blower motor can get you over 2hp and it will take extreme abuse.

for batteries, its not as big of a deal or have to be as expensive as its being made out to be. SVR for one can push 900 cold cranking amps and is very budget friendly. If I was trying to be super competitive, I'd opt on the exotica end of non-lead acid technology but only really for weight purposes.

I think the difficulty is going to be a motor controller. 30V at 2000amps was WAYYYY beyond any commercial option (most I was able to find at the time was like 450amps). I had to design and build my own (and yes, the ramping functions were never perfect). I know the market has come a super long way in the past 10 years with this, but I don't know how well this has trickled down to the "low" voltage systems.

Its a novelty. Set your daydreams elsewhere.

 

I'm at a lost! I read about this supercharger a while ago and was trying to get one from this guy since Dec 2013/Jan 2014 for my Subaru XT6 (Before I came to this forum). The supercharger works! Plain and simple.

I'm confused as to why the majority of the responses seem to be doubt that it works or some theories behind how it operate. It simply works! I thought people would be trying to implement one on the Fit by now. No...not just any supercharger but a PhantomSupercharger. I will would one for my Subaru XT6 (2.7ltr, 145hp stock). I am just not interested as I'm interested in mods/stuff for the Fit (Not a supercharger or forced induction though).

 

It looks like most of the responses are arguing the cost effectiveness and ease of use for a system like this, not so much that it doesn't work.

 

Have you seen any horsepower needs that rotating a supercharger demands out of a car? Appropriately for our car, its the 15-20hp range. If its not coming from the driveline, that power has to come from somewhere. The amount of power that takes to even do it for a few seconds is a fairly large bank of batteries. And then what is the price you pay? Your charging system has to be much stronger than stock; you can't replace those amp hours storage without it. You have an added cost with that and a period after a brief roll-up that you are experiencing a drag from the charging system as it recovers.... yes, I would say that dictate why I said it had a tiny handful of mildly practical applications: drag, rare street light. These are not magic beans, something has to come from somewhere and go elsewhere... there are compromises!

but seriously, wtf does this do to the car do when drained power doesn't let the compressor keep up with flow demands before it is a hindrance on engine power? 'm pretty sure my tuner would turn me away at the door if I had needs where engine rpm had no mathematically relationship between airflow I am supplying... head explodes. I'll totally slap a dollar on the table that you will never have a sorted daily driver car with this.