buy the intake runner deal from another car market, like Japan. Not every car market has emissions standards like us.

Japan ebay is a good source, and many sellers do international shipping for okay prices. Might be able to swoop one set up shipped for under $100

Else its a simple matter of buying the factory EGR block off plate from honda, made for the civic SI k20 cars. Part number is 18711-PM1-J00 The gasket that goes under it is a match to our Fit EGR gasket.

 

ok I'll have to come back to that in a bit.

I've been hasty and uneducated. So I went out and got the service manual and actually done some reading. I don't want to be spreading misinformation or that I go through tasks like a hack-job. I made too many presumptions based off of prior experience with unrelated cars and I got burned by it.... Funny how much of that can be fixed with just a few minutes of reading. I appreciate everyones input but I'm going to move forward in a more professional manner.


So what I was originally calling a proportioning valve (which I falsely assumed involved coolant), then when I found it was a breather line and based off of its location just assumed it was a idle air controller (I assume the electronic throttlebody is simply handling that task but that's a mystery for anther day)... OK so that is the EVAP Canister purge valve.


So hypothetcally/technically, its not a deal killer that I ground that off my TB. Plesae correct me on some of these following initial assumptions:
The car will start/drive without wiring for the purge valve connected.
I'm likely to throw CEL codes without that valve connected.
If I plug up the air line that runs to the evap canister purge valve, the result is a accumulation/buildup in the evap canister. But it looks like it has a pressure release to the atmosphere at a certain point.
Plugging this line doesn't appear I am severely overriding safety systems (like if I am in a rollover crash, I shouldn't be gushing gasoline)
If I plugged it and parked in my garage, there is a chance of gas fumes.

Please note, I'm not rushing into implementing this, and I am not planning at all on pulling the entire EVAP system, it's just a discussion. I am going to continue on with the current TB because I no longer think I trashed it and there is still some promise. I am going to start on the other spare TB, and this one will just remove the coolant dependencies.

13Fit, you said you were uncertain about if blocking off those TB coolant lines verses just joining them together would have an adverse effect on the system. I really don't think so. It comes straight off of the water pump and goes right back to the thermostat junction. There should be no reason you can't just remove this. Now on that point, it's interesting to note that its pulling coolant from its coolest point (immediately off of the radiator), Now rather than welding those lines shut, they could perfectly be repurposed for an oil cooler (I know a number of the ford SVTs will have this kinda system). might be an idea looking into.

I'm excited, you can't tell me there isn't a difference between these two implementations.

 

so go ahead and pull the oil warmer/cooler setup off a K series or a B series. You will also need to grab that center bolt/passage tube

I wouldnt recommend doing it unless you do NOT expect great performance. Its a good oil warmer, but while it prevents the oil from reaching over 200 degrees (good), it also means it can never be cooler then the coolant (not so good for performance)

 

new un-educated mistake. my first attempt is on the right. you can see I originally sculpted in a nipple at the end of the electric throttle body servo housing. While the shaping of the unmolested part didn't really indicate that the nipple was necissary. I almost did it because I thought it would be a cool looking detail. Then today I made the uninformed decision to just grind it off.... whooops.

Its interesting to note how thin the walls are for that indention and even if I kept my original shaping, it would've been dangerously thin. So attempt 2 will be similar but I'll leave a bit of supporting structural metal to tie into the meat of the TB.

 

haven't touched this in a while primarily because winter and this being reliant on a few other projects to complement this. This is how it currently sits. It's something I'll return to next month and finish it up.

left is the tb that will be used, right is the botched practice/exploratory attempt.

photos are not complimentary until I do some sanding, but the shaping of the coolant chamber is much nicer on my second attemt.

 

Wow! You are putting a lot of work into this. Interested in seeing how much weight you shave off once you are done.

 

meh, I just like reshaping things. I have a wood carving project I need to finish up before I return to this one. On a cross note, I just picked up a large block of gaboon ebony wood (think black piano keys), which should be large enough to crank out 6+ shift knobs. Its monstrously expensive wood and this will be my first time working with it and I'm pretty excited.