i've been trying to figure this out for weeks. i've read clunker's thread and i've seen that jcuecker has had success with his aftermarket stereo and steering wheel controls. i'm using this guide from PAC-audio specifically for our GE fit and my alpine stereo. i think where i'm going wrong is that i'm just unsure which of the 2 new wires that i've popped into the rear of the cable reel i should use to connect to the PAC interface.



the 2 new wires that i've plugged into the rear of the cable reel are indicated by the green and red arrows.


according to the PAC guide, one of those wires should be ground to the chassis and one to the steering wheel control wire. it would be the stock PINK wire on a NAV car. help?

 

your cable reel wires match up with mine. I sent cable reel pin 7 (your green/yellow) to radio pin 5 (between an orange wire and a green wire), and cable reel pin 8 (your light green) to radio pin 16 (between a blue wire and a blank space).

 

thanks for the post clunker! at least now i know that my harness is fine. now on to find out which wire goes to ground and which one goes to my PAC interface.

 

Neil,

The first thing I would do is connect a voltmeter to your two leads and make sure you register a change in resistance. Pressing the volume, channel and mode buttons should all register a slightly different reading. I don't remember off heand what exacly the reading are, but make sure you at least see something.

The wiring you show does look correct though.

Let me know.

 

thanks to the both of you. it seems i have figured out which wire is which but i'm still getting no signal out of them when i'm trying to program my PAC interface. hopefully i'll get to borrow my brother's volt meter this weekend and try again. i hope it's just loose wiring somewhere.

thanks again, folks!

 

Neil,
Did you get it figured out? I agree with Clunker and jcuecker that your wires are located in the correct positions in the cable reel connector. All the steering wheel switches do is change the circuit resistance between the two wires that go back to the audio unit. With no switch pressed, the resistance should be 10,000 ohms. Pressing each switch gives a unique resistance which allows the audio unit to figure out which switch was pressed. For instance, if "volume down" is pressed, the resistance drops to 99 ohms. Based on the circuit diagram I'm looking at, it shouldn't matter which of the wires you choose, but your light green one is the ungrounded one in the OEM application. When you measure the resistance, you want to be disconnected from the PAC unit, of course.

 

i was busy last weekend so i haven't figured it out, yet. i got my own voltmeter so i'll play around with it but i have no idea how to use it. i'll figure it out with some help.

and thanks for your reply, SS, it'll help a bunch when i actually get to it.

 

well, i finally got it working this morning. turns out that one of the pins i inserted into the harness was not making contact with the pin. i reinserted it and now everything works great! thanks for all the advice, folks!

 

finally did it DIY
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...tml#post940912