I have a little 8" sub and a 300W amp (stereo, bridged) to drive it. In my last car, I had an aftermarket HU with dedicated sub-output. (The HU went w/ the car as part of the sale)

Anyway, it'll be a bit before I have extra cash to sink into a new HU, so in the mean time I was thinking I might try to run the amp/sub with the stock HU. I don't suppose anyone's tried this? There isn't a dedicated line-out from the stock HU is there?

The amp has high-level inputs, so I suppose I could run it off one of the rear-speaker feeds.

Has anyone done this? Or if not, for those of you that have had the doors/wire-runs apart - can you offer any tips/watch-out-for's?

 

scosche loc80


i want to do the same but not confident unless theres a diy

 

i cut my rear speaker wires n ran a loc for low level input to my 800w amp (400watt rms lol). i believe i was able to splice into them via the wireharness under the seatbelt. forgot the color wires...i'll go look later when i have the chance. jus gotta pop the panel under the seatbelt mechanism to access it. was gonna splice into them but decided to just cut out rear speakers entirely.

 

any updates? im going to try and do the same havent ordered that loc yet


Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Gray
Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown
Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Blue
Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Orange

which seatbelt mechanism?

 

i would like to hook up my subwoofer and amp too..anybody try this yet?

 

I've just finished with mine. I'd be glad to help you.

 

Ive done this recently on my GD, im sure that on the GE is the same.
- For RCA's i used the LOC-80, ran that to the speaker wire behind the panel where the rear door speaker is, spliced the wire with a quick splice made sure i put L+ and R+ together, and L- and R- together.
-For the Ground i just ran that to where i grounded my amp found a bolt in the trunk area
-For the Remote wire i ran the wire to the fuse box (under the dash) and wrapped the wire around the fuse for the radio i think its #26 double check has to be for the radio, that should give the power to the amp when the radio is on.
-The power wire is coming from the battery im not sure if the GE has the same rubber stopper on the firewall to pass the cable through.. the GD was on the right hand side (passenger)
im running an 800watt Amp and 800watt sub at almost max power (i can go max without a problem) this is all off the Stock unit which is 160w this is all without a capacitor

Good luck and let me know if you need any help, i can use my Mom's GE as a reference

 

I did all my work through the back of the head unit with wire taps. The LOC was pretty easy to do. RR - was orange, RR + was blue, LR - was brown, LR + was grey. If you want to tap the front speakers its FR - is red, FR + is brown, FL - is light green, FL + is light blue. The easiest thing I found was that the corresponding wires were right next to each other. For instance FR- is right next to (horizontal) the + wire. If you are thinking they are wires totally apart from each other than it isn't right. Power was run through the fire wall directly above the accelerator. Just punch a hole through with a wire coat hanger is what I did. Ground I did in the spare tire well. Ran the power and signal wire down the driver side under the carpet. RCA was run down the passenger side under the carpet to prevent distortion/wine. Signal cable was a trick as I wanted to do it through the radio, but the radio has constant power (security reason). So I just did an add-a-fuse from autozone($10). I used the one (looking at the fuse box under the dash) all the way to the left there is a row with two empty spots. The lower one gives power when the key is in the ON position, but not in the accessory. If you don't want this you will have to find another fuse to tap. I did it because I know running my sub with out the car on will kill the battery pretty quick. I also added a kill switch while i was down there. It's sitting in a blank spot where the stock switches are by the drivers knees. Should be all you need for the amp install. Anyone has questions or wants pictures I will see what I can do just let me know.

 

Will the loc turn off/on the amp when the radio is on? I'm a little confused about the remote wire. Is that wire on the loc ?

 

A LOC is simply to give you RCA output tonrun to your amp. It doesn't turn on/off. I put mine behind the headunit, make sure that you test everything before putting it back together if you dO though so that you can adjust the gains on it. I forgot to and now i have to pull the headunit again because I'm getting too many high note coming though it. Total install for all the wires should take maybe 2 hours.

FYI, if you are pulling your headunit, you have to undo the screw under the radio. You can only get to it by switch your air selector switch to the left.