Hey all,

So I am going to tackle my 2011's valve adjustment sometime next week, and is seeming clear except just a couple of things.

1. Does the car have to be in neutral the whole time, or only while moving the crankshaft to position the pistons? If so, how do I put the car in neutral without it being running?

2. Do i have to have the bent feeler guages to make accurate measurements, or will the flat ones work?

3. Once i start adjusting, you only work one cylinder at a time, but do you do the exhause and intake clearances at the same time for each cylinder, or separately, as in, i will have position the crankshaft 4 times overall, or 8 times?

Thanks in advance!

 

I'm doing mine tomorrow.

Adjust each cylinder (exhaust and intake), then reset the crank and move on to the next cylinder.

Neutral? You have an automatic?

My concern is taking everything off to get to the valve cover. What a pain. Honda never intended that any owner would get in there. Also why they gave up publishing the Service Manual.

Good luck.

 

Thanks for the info!

Yeah, I have an automatic. Thought I heard on the tutorial video to make sure your car is in neutral while turning the crankshaft.

I will watch again and see if I missed something as I am not sure how youd go about putting the car in neutral with half of the car taken out.

As for taking everything out, it shouldn't be too bad. I bought a pair of hose removing pliers and a bunch of extra cowl clips to be safe. The battery and airbox come out easy. Never taken anything off after that but hopefully wont give us too much troube. Im doing mine tomorrow also.

Let me know if you need any help.

 

Maybe I'm missing something, but can't you put your AT in neutral before you start the job?

I've done valve adjustments on Fits before, just not a GE.

 

wouldnt the crank also spin freely in park? I seem to recall being able to rev in park with an AT long ago when I used
to have one 😎

 

If you want it in neutral, disconnect the battery, put the key in the ignotion and turn it to on, then shift to neutral.. ofcourse, your wheels will be chocked. Then you dont have to worry about battery drain, just find the security code for the stereo ahead of time. Not sure if theres a mysterious reason making it necessary, but hey, no harm.

Edit: f*ck it. I got the service manual still, and I need to do it, so i'll just do it today and let you know

 

Awesome, please let me know how it goes! Ill be doing mine tonight.

Honda bond just came in so Im ready to go.

 

Oh man, you're probably done then.

It went fine. As always, I forget one thing. fortunately it was the ratchet on the harmonic balancer, which I figured out when checking my socket rails before closing up.
everything's torqued, valve clearance at the minimum tolerance now, which only involved one to 4 hair widths of a turn of the screws (the.. trash with the flat head slot)
All buttoned up, ~2 hours (excluding my bumbling that drew it out another 3.) didn't drain oil, did swab metal mating surfaces with alcohol, didn't replace any gaskets, did clean em, and lube em with the exception of the valve cover. No lube there due to the silicone.
Good call on the Honda Bond.

I was going to post this on one of the other guys' threads, but maybe it'd fit better here:
be sure you have a 10mm crows foot for the valves. torque is 120in.lbs. and has a specific pattern for tightening. Here it is, numbered appropriately:

6 2 4 8

5 1 3 7

The cam's gear is marked for each cylinder. at each cylinder you do all 4. that's.. my understanding of the instructions, as odd as it seems. EDIT: the cylinders are in order, 1234, starting at the engine front/vehicle right/side with the belts. cyl 1 is marked as UP with an arrow. then you'll roll on to number 3, then number 2, finishing on number 4. No need to reset engine position to anything afterwards, just incase someone wonders.

I strongly recommend that you bend a 90 degree angle into the end of each relevant feeler chingas (.0152mm intake, .0253 exhaust (lowest tolerance is .026, so I just shot for snug on .0276mm for the exhaust).
intake manifold top bolts is 84in.lbs. and the torques for the rest of the nonsense is 17 ftlbs. (not counting stuff like air box, metal cowl, wiper motor.. used 84in.lbs. for those) could get pretty darned close at 200in.lbs. (16.6666...) and save yourself a tool swap.

Had to grind a standard sized crow to make a 10mm.. imagine how long it took to think of that.
add on screwin with my poorly placed T-REV, struggling getting the airbox in and out, half my time on this job was nonsense.

All in all, I tightened.. 13 of the 16 valves. Wasn't really necessary, but you don't go down that deep for nothing.
If you wind up with time to kill you may notice some chassis grounds have become pretty accessible for cleaning.
good time to clean the TB, and that's all folks.

OH WAIT!
The frickin feelers fit in the middle between the rockers and the valve spring's hats, and not closer to either one. It's worth a mention since you can't really get a good angle to see where to slip em in.

uhh. have a good night, and have fun if you didn't already do this.
Keep us posted!

 

I posted everything in this thread.

I think I intended for it to go in this one.
My posts are toward the bottom and include downloadable/printable OEM procedures, and in a following one, a tools list.
The job went off without a hitch. keep in mind that the silicone you apply (youll see it all in the procedures) takes a minimum of 3 hours to dry, assuming good weather. this time will begin once the valve cover is reinstalled, sealed, so just after the time consuming mid point that is actual valve adjustment. so be sure to include that time when planning total inoperable time allowable. The ideal time for silicone to fully cure is 24 hours. I would not recommend cutting close to the minimum unless you're using Hondabond sealant.
Fair winds and following seas, my friend.