Just wondering if anyone has done this for their Fit.

I'm disabled with neuro damage in my legs, meaning they fatigue quickly. So I drive with hand controls.

Since my hands are busy, I find it very difficult to add in the job of switching on/off my high beams. So I basically never use them, even tho I would like to.

My legs/feet have enough functionality to use a foot switch, so I'd love to have one for the high beams.

Anyone here done this or have any thoughts/tips?

Thanks all!
Lisa W

 

Havent done it but certainly want to help. Now, once everythings in your hands it'll be fairly simple, but its up to you to decide if its work you'd be willing to do (A car stereo shop could probably do this for you).

You would need to take the plastic cover off of the steering column and get at the wires for the brights. I'm no electrician, almost completely useless beyond cutting n soldering, but we do have resident electricians that may jump in to help.
I'd have to upload a wiring diagram for you so that you could isolate the power, common and ground. Jeez, not even sure I'm saying that right. But in a simple circuit for a switch youll have a normally open wire (on) normally closed (off) and a ground. You'd need to at least tap into the first two to connect them to a foot pedal. The third would be optional, with the alternative being that you get down by the pedals and make some bare metal to bolt a ground wire (coming from the pedal) to.

Youd need wire strippers, quick disconnects (or other type of connectors/solder and a soldering iron) a phillips screw driver and maybe some trim tools.. an inline fuse, and a means to bolt the pedal to the floorboard, and of course a pedal.
Now, cars run on direct current as opposed to alternating current which houses run on. I dont know if you'd need a DC foot switch. Tried looking it up and found a yes, but then couldnt find any DC foot pedals.. someone will definitely chime in to tell me how ignorant I am

So honestly, unless you're this kind of handy, it'd probably be best to get a professional install. If desired I can still provide a circuit diagram for you to pass on to the installer. Those stereo shops take dashboards apart every day, do wiring, pretty much everything youd need.. youd just have to make sure they arent cheap jerks that will break plastic, nick unrelated wires, and oversize holes leaving you smelling/hearing your engine.

I hope this helps, even a little bit.

 

Wow...wow! Great detailed info! Luckily, I've got a hubby that is mechanically inclined. I may even find a local shop to do it...but at least it is do-able! I'll be printing your instructions for whomever winds up doing the work.

Ps. I have the Honda maintenance manual with all the wiring diagrams...helpful...

Thank you so much!
Lisa W

 

Boy do I have some stuff for you...

• I'd have to upload a wiring diagram for you so that you could isolate the power, common and ground. Jeez, not even sure I'm saying that right. But in a simple circuit for a switch youll have a normally open wire (on) normally closed (off) and a ground

The normally open wire is OFF, normally closed is always on/power, and ground is.. well, negative/ground. at least I got that right.

• You would need to take the plastic cover off of the steering column and get at the wires for the brights

You will likely have an easier time accessing the under dash fuse/relay box, though it may be tough to find the wires you need, that'll take a little effort.
I went ahead and ripped some bits from the manual for you anyways. Its a little technical.. but wait a little before getting this job started, just for the other folks to come in and correct me as needed. Should only take them a day.

I added in the section for removing the associated fuse panel just incase that makes it easier to get at the necessary wires. The fuses that correlate with what we're doing are numbers 48 (Left Hi-Beam) and 51 (Right Hi-Beam)

The basic concept still stands. We'll be jumping into the existing wiring for the hi-beam switch. The original hi-beam switch will need to be bypassed or kept in an "always on" position, but I'd recommend bypassing it to avoid accidental switching of things.

Under "Headlight Wiring Schematics" you'll also find a brief description of the Hi-Beam system.

EDIT: Happy to help.