First off, I don't know much about cars but I do try to learn how to fix things when able or at least have time. Anyway, out of nowhere my car started to stutter, felt like it was wanting to stall & the emissions control/check engine light came on periodically. I checked the MAF sensor & air filter (K&N, oiled/cleaned 4 months ago) & everything looked good. I had the car towed to Honda & they told me the MAP sensor needed to be replaced. Said it was an expensive part + labor, total cost $568. What?

I Googled MAP sensors & called a few places about the part and the average price is $50-100. Called Honda & asked why it'd be so expensive & they said "oh our mistake, we shouldn't have included the charge for diagnostics". New price $268.

Does $300 sound normal for diagnostics in this situation, has anyone here replaced their MAP sensor, & how difficult is it to access? I couldn't tell by looking at the diagram attached to the parts description from Vatland Honda .

Also, some say the K&N filters are no good.. could this be the cause? I was super thorough when I cleaned & oiled, followed written directions along with the official K&N video but now it's got me wondering.

Thanks ahead for any advice.

2012 Honda FIT 5-D0OR SPORT (SUZUKA PLANT) 5 Speed Automatic

Sensor Assembly, Map -
Honda (37830-RNA-A01)
Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor
https://www.hondapartsflorida.com/oe...ap-37830rnaa01

 

Diagnosis is kind of one If those who knows areas. It could be time consuming and involve expensive equipment. 300 bucks is probably like 2 hours of labor at dealer rates I’m guessing?

but in this case it looks more like a sticker shock tactic to help you bend over easier to pay an hours labor for a 10 minute install

looks like the map bolts on to the intake plenum (the big black plastic thing over the engine) if you have to remove the wiper pan it’s a 30 minute job, if you don’t it’s probably 5 if you have a hard time with the electrical connector.

edit: I checked. It’s right next to the throttle body super ez pz.

edit2: is it the K&N drop in filter? ive had one in my fit for... 4 years? never had any issues with it. air gets recirculated several different ways into the intake for emissions purposes. the MAP probably gets crudded up with oil etc.

 

Thanks for the reply & yes, it's a drop in filter. This ended up being the weirdest experience I've had with Honda.

After the car was dropped off (over the phone) I told them I disconnected the MAF sensor to see if that was the problem. About all I knew to check really...a tip from a previous mechanic. Car still wanted to stall. Especially when I turned on the AC or hit the gas. So the Honda rep says "the mechanic ran some tests and it turns out the MAP sensor is what's bad." I asked if he checked the MAF sensor because I noticed an almost reddish residue on it. Not dripping but enough to notice. I told him the filter also looked a little wet around the edges, almost like it had just been cleaned & oiled (but too much) if that makes sense. Not soaked, but not the way it looked 4 months ago after I cleaned/oiled & put it back. I even made extra sure to follow the directions, shook out any excess, and let it sit for 24 hours before installing. Mechanic said they noticed the same thing.

So again, the service rep tells me the mechanic is saying it's not the MAF, but needs a new MAP sensor, which needs to be ordered. I wait 2 days, called to check on things & the rep says "oh the mechanic made a mistake, he meant to order a MAF sensor and we ordered a MAP". I'm like wtf man you guys told me from the jump it had a bad MAP sensor? Of course now I'm thinking why did the car still want to stall when I disconnected it because I would have ordered one & replaced it. Anyway they replaced it for $210. (Labor shows $0.00)
I realize I don't have the right equipment to run tests but I would have liked to do it myself.

I also had them do a fuel system service - (fuel injection flush, throttle body, combustion cmbr svc kit) $219. At 67K miles, maybe unnecessary? I'm sure if I had more experience I could have done this too..idk, I'd like to anyway.

 

I had the same issue with my 2013 Honda Fit Sport a bad MAP sensor I just had it replaced today. The part cost OEM $101.95 and labor was $159.00 involves both replacement, clearing codes and calibrating. Total cost was $303.30 with $50.00 coupon deducted. You can't replace the MAP sensor with re-calibrating it since it controls the air-flow pressure and fuel mixture ratio and sends the info to the ECM computer.
Same for the MAF since it needs to be re-calibrated also which measures the air rate and volume running into the intake manifold through the throttle body.
The engine has A.I. software that's built into the ECM to enable the system to learn both the parameters for the air volume intake rate (MAF) and the Manifold Air Pressure volume ratio and temperature. As a rule of thumb the cooler the air the more power the cool air gives to the engine since cool air is more dense than hot air. Cooler air means more volume and more power so the MAP has to constantly monitor the air volume to mass ratio in real time.
Its recommended to have your fuel injection system serviced every 60,000 miles depending on your engine type and fuel octane rating. With 51,331 miles on my 2013 Honda fit sport I have about another 8,669 miles to go and it would also be a good idea to change the air filter at 10,000 - 30,000 miles if you haven't done so within the first 30,000 miles.
As you mentioned about the reddish residue on the MAP it could have come from the residual moisture from the air filter. I'd let the filter sit in the sun for about 30 minutes to 1 hour to make sure it's dried fully before placing it back into the air box.
As for air filters I used to use the cheap STP paper brand $19.00 for both the engine and cabin air filters. I now use the high performance K&N and other third-part filters and costs anywhere between $34 - $44. I always get the same brand for both filters to add more air flow to the car's engine for a little boost, last longer and you don't have to replace them as often as the cheap paper STP air filters.

 

Here's a description off the internet as to what the MAP sensor does:
What is the Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor (MAP Sensor) all about?"In order to operate, your engine needs a combination of air, fuel and spark. Today’s engines are much more complex, and require sophisticated measuring of different elements to ensure proper fuel combustion. The manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor is responsible for some of these tasks.Your MAP sensor measures the amount of air entering the manifold, the air temperature, and the number of revolutions in the engine. With this information, the car’s computer can adjust fuel and airflow to maximize performance while minimizing fuel consumption.If your engine is not fuel injected, you probably do not have a MAP sensor. However, the vast majority of engines on the road today are fuel injected. For some automakers, the MAP sensor also serves a diagnostic function, allowing mechanics to analyze the performance of the EGR valve."

I checked an online Honda dealership pricing for a 2013 Honda Fit MAP sensor and Honda lists the part as 37830-RNA-AO1 for $76.49. I don't know if you had a Honda dealership or a repair shop replace the sensor, but you paid a lot for the sensor. The dealer should not have charged you more than full retail list price for it and a private repair facility would pay about 25% off list price if they bought it from the dealership. Since this part is a sensor, my understanding is the part is constructed within acceptable tolerances and is not calibrated after installation.

 

I had the dealership replace the MAP which was an OEM part made for my 2013 Honda Fit Sport model. The OEM parts usually cost more than the third-party engine parts. I had seen a lower price for that MAP 37830-RNA-A01 at Track Auto for $64.99. I should have brought that part and have had the dealer install it instead which is what I was about to do yesterday and while not thinking I could have done this on my way to the dealer.
I did replace my air filter and reset the oil life indicator as I have now mentioned. Thanks for noting that the MAP unlike the MAF does not need calibration.
I could have saved a lot of money if I had purchased the MAP myself but since the repair has been done in a timely manor all is clear on the console and running smoothly. Thanks for your very informative reply.