So my car has not had a/c for the past 4 years, I got fed up with it and decided to replace the compressor and the condenser through a shop. The ac was working fine for 3 weeks then it just stopped working. I got discouraged and just forgot about it.

Fast forward a year later I took the car to another shop to check for leaks, the schrader valve had a leak and the shop repaired it with new Freon.

Now the problem is that the AC compressor clutch is not getting enough voltage, the mechanic said the compressor is fine but he can’t source why it’s not getting power through the resistor. He checked the fuses and the a/c resistor and it’s fine.

The wire that powers the compressor clutch is only getting about 10 volts he explained to me.

I also replaced the AC clutch relay with the updated Mitsuba version, he checked the continuity of that and it’s fine.

The climate controls all work fine, the blower 1-4 is blowing.

I am kind of at a loss on what to do next.

Any help is appreciated! Thank You

 

Well I “sort of” fixed the problem.

The AC clutch fuse was blown and the clutch instantly turned on. Now the problem now is that after 10 mins the compressor stops working and hot air comes out again.

 

This is interesting! :}
Sooo, the power for the AC compressor, to run AC, comes from the engine, transferred by way of serpentine belt. The relay you replaced sends juice to energize the clutch and its magnet whoozywhatsits to make it suck in and engage the clutch, putting the serpentine under load.

I read some standard google search bits that informed me primarily on how home AC works (key difference being where power is drawn from) and most signs pointed towaaard 🥁 a gunked up/faulty compressor. That's not the end all though! Which is good cuz the compressor shouldnt really be gunked up (seeing as how it's covered and newish). A gunked up condenser could also affect cooling capability, as well as a refrigerant leak and possibly a shorting wire. I'd be surprised by the wire idea if the fault is consistent!
Another possible is some kinda issue with the thermostat! Maybe even a super clogged up cabin air filter, hmm?

Starting with the easy I'd inspect the condenser for obvious damage or corrosion, the cabin air filter, and the serpentine in case anything weird is going on there. I'll go check the service manual

Edit: if you have reason to suspect there may be a leak from one of the schrader valves, that might be worth a look too, or a listen! maybe if you take the blue cappies off of em and give an ear while the AC is running you'll identify an issue

 

Not sure how much help I can be, but my 2010 Fit had a strange AC experience this past summer that sounds similar to yours...
It started with a loud rattling sound when the comp clutch kicked in. I took it to a local shop and left it there to be fixed. They called and said the ac clutch was shot and they would only replace the clutch and compressor as one unit. I didn't have the time or ability, to do it myself.
I got it back the next day and drove it for about a week. I experienced the same as your last sentence in your second post. It just was not working correctly. (kick on and then off, but would not come back on)
I brought it back to the shop and left it there. It was two days later when they finished it up.
They had to remove the clutch/compressor that they had installed and replaced it with another new one. They told me that the first new one was wired wrong on delivery to them.
No charge for the removal and replacement.
How could it have been wired wrong on delivery? I don't know. I don't know where they source their parts from, but the service manager was very upset about it.
New one has been working perfectly for almost a year now.

 

We can't yet rule out possibility for incompatible replacement parts! It does sound like a return for service. Based on my findings in the manual, there's nothing on the kind of fault mentioned here (at least not in the troubleshooting for HVAC). That leads me to believe that we aren't dealing with a routine component failure, and that the labor/component may be to blame. If you need instructional documents for checking Freon or the pollen filter, whatevs, let me know. :}
I also believe the clutch and compressor don't have to be replaced as a unit. Moreso that it would be silly for a mechanic to do something so... mechanical! I doubt that the clutch alone could be sourced aftermarket, and I don't think they'd purchase from the dealer or they wouldn't make money off marking up parts. Plus, easier to swap the full assembly I think.. Or at the very least, more familiar.
Inspect stuff listed above, head back to the shop. I'd also recommend installing a screen mesh in your front bumper to protect the condenser for the foreseeable future. There's a write up on here for how to do said thing. Think it was under "Best Mods for GE8" or some such. If it interests you and you can't find it, I'll try and dig it up.

 

I’ll definitely look into the mesh filter! Thank You for the replies and assistance!

So i think I found the problem, it the harness in actual compressor. The clutch wasn’t spinning so I just kinda batted the compressor harness and the clutch instantly clicked on!

I did this on two occasions and they worked. When I get a full day off, I’ll do some more probing and check the pins and see if fix up the wiring.

 

I’ve hopped on and off here looking at A/C threads and just assumed fixing it was useless, that it would just break or stop working again.

My compressor doesn’t turn on, I’ve checked and replaced the button and relay.

I’m debating fixing it on my 2009 with 126,000miles in upstate NY. Not sure if it’s worth it as I don’t know what my new work normal will be.

Also it seems like not running killed the battery (it takes a jump, but after idling it for 20 minutes it didn’t have enough charge to start 24hours later.)

Any ideas on the shop rate to fix the A/C? Lets assume it needs all the bells and whistles.

I don’t think Walmart (by me) is going to be able to stand by their warranty on the battery - it’s just over 3 years old and I’m not sure it’s safe for me to go inside their building until we reopen. So I might get the replacement at autozone or invest in a battery jumpstart device.

 

It's hard to quote shop rates when you're in NY and shop rates vary greatly around the country. Besides, the only shop rate that matters is a rate near where you live in NY Maybe a Fitfreak living near you can chime in with shop rates and/ or a good shop to contact. My suggestion is to do an internet search and find a shop that specializes in A/C work and not general auto repair. Call them and ask what an estimate costs. A lot of shops will invite you to bring your car in and will discuss options for cost of repairs just to get your business. From there, you make the decision to repair it if it's worth it to you. The repair could be as simple as a low pressure switch shutting down your system because of a small leak.

As far as your battery goes, most batteries are only warrantied for up to 36 months or less. If you have paper work on the battery, call Walmart and confirm your warranty and what warranty is left on yours- probably very little. If that's the case, just go to whatever auto parts store that offers you the best price and warranty. I prefer to buy batteries from my local Honda dealer. They offer a 100 month warranty and I get a 20-25% discount there.

 

Chiming back in to put on my taking-off-hat for the gent above me!

In my experience with mechanic shops, some outsource work to A/C guys. It requires special equipment, and certifications too I think, so it doesn't always make sense for general repair guys. Often one can point you in a direction though.

Replying to the thread creator: I recall hearing something about aftermarket ac compressors coming shimmed improperly (the clutch has to travel too far to suck in). I've seen this handled by removing the pulley wheel and then a simple washer. I know I saw all that on a thread here, and then also remember reading something about an orifice tube being an issue in one case, but bigger brains than mine crossed that bridge.

I'm thrashed today so won't be more help yet. But those are two things worth looking up!! Ac compressor clutch shim removal, honda.. something like that might hold the cure for what ails you.

 

If you're anywhere near Avoca go see Eric O at South Main Auto. One of the best mechanics anywhere.

 

Just replacing a compressor and a condenser is a sure way to kill new compressor.
The debris have likely not been properly removed from the system.

Once the system is contaminated mechanically, either whole system needs replacing or the parts (primarily the compressor) will not live long.

 

I knew it was gonna be the big job on the a/c thankfully all the windows still work.

(Also battery on mine is fine despite whatever Goodyear said when I finally got the snow tires off last week - just needs a charge. I'm currently not driving much due to COVID, my office is 20 minutes away mostly highway miles.)

@john21031 any idea what could be causing mechanical issues with an A/C system? Something loose outside the A/C system? Debris? I probably won't be fixing mine as I'd rather put the cash to a replacement.

 

Contamination is what can cause mechanical issues in the compressor.
Compressor is like a small engine, it has pistons and cylinders with walls. it has oil. When something goes wrong in the system and the compressor/ e.g. low on oil, or has dust, or moisture in the system, or low or too high on refrigerant, the pistons in the compressor can scratch the cylinder walls introducing metal shavings into the entire system that becomes more and more contaminated. When compressor is then replaced but the system still has these debris and shavings in it, the new compressor will soon repeat the fate of the previous one.

Here is a video to show how a compressor looks inside

 

Best battery I have ever put in my Fit is the Everstart Maxx, sold by Walmart, mfd by Johnson Controls, sells for I think $96, 3 yr warranty. You will need a lead spacer "thimble" over the + terminal for the cable to fit snug, DO NOT try to overtighten it to fit, doesn't work. Our Fits have a different + terminal clamp with fuse stuff on them, don't break that!