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Had my fit for close to 70k miles now. It's at 217k. Irrelevant really. I posted a long time ago about it's drivability, that hasn't changed but to get worse.
i was looking at the CV, passenger side and it doesn't seem right. I've been hollaring since it got replaced when the transmission did, but it seems I'm a moron or something.
Y'all see anything wrong? That's where the CV meets the intermediate shaft.
Probably is in all honesty. When the dealership told me I needed a new transmission I was pretty livid, but the next day when they told me I needed a new CV and intermediate, I was even more so because they said it's because they couldn't get them apart. Couldn't help but think that's odd considering it's just a snap ring holding them together. Figured I'm not a mechanic though, and purchased them. CV from Advance, and intermediate off of eBay. Yes, I know. Ebay?! But they wanted over 2000 to do the transmission. Bring a humble contractor, I didn't have a whole hell of a lot more than that and another 450 for a new intermediate wasn't possible.
I fear that's the problem, but I dunno. It's like my front pass side has a wobble like a grocery cart wheel is the best I can describe it.
Alot if play up and down, in and out too really, but with the car on the ground, the in and out remains, up and down goes away. Not sure how to check it though, and I'm schizophrenic so little stuff tends to turn into big stuff at some point.
Honda service manual says to "turn the wheel by hand" while looking at it to make sure there's not excessive play. Only way I can think of to do that would be with it on a lift or jack stands.
Presently doing a cv shaft on a ford escape hybrid.
Cv shafts by design have play when installed (will attach photo with cv boot removed to display this).. Since I'm not home I can't access the service manual. The shaft you're showing is the right side
I don't really understand the design on the inboard side. Typically (as with the left, and both on the manual trans) the inboard side of a cv shaft will have a spline sticking out a fair ways.. small metal cover protecting the transmission's rubber output seals. I'm not sure what the deal is with this one, why it has that huge metal cover on the inboard side rather than matching the design of the opposing side. But it is sitting properly in your image compared to new part listing shown.
CV shafts do have some tell-tale symptoms of failure that can be found with a quick google search. We're gonna need some more descriptors of the fault you're experiencing. I think I speak for the rest of the class when saying that we like stuff other mechanics turn down/disregard.
Here's pics of inside a cv boot Those circular bearings have fairly long channels to move in. Densely packed with a moderately liquidy grease, the shaft's in out motion should be restrained by the boot that covers the joint (same on both inboard and outboard sides I believe, but just one side gives like 2+ inches of play) Should feel kinda like using a plunger on a toilet when you pull on it, air tight seals sucking it back into place.
With a regular cv shaft there's also some play in further that wouldn't have a suctiony feel. The splines are held in by a ring placed in a cutout right about in the middle of and perpendicular to said splines. Keeps the shaft 'deep enough' in the tranny. that would have a metallic feel when wiggling, but it'd be muted a bit by transmission fluid.. But without having serviced the right cv shaft on this specific car w/automatic tranny, I can't say how it should feel. Hopefully someone can chime in.
When isolating faults, if in motion note RPM, speed, vibration, sounds, abnormal steering behavior (this car shoots straight as can be and doesn't bump steer) bouncy suspension, throttle response/delay, abnormal braking behavior and where you think stuff is coming from. If you can make a youtube video that may also be tremendously telling. or, post link to your other thread if all the info is there.
I've been properly chastised. I admittedly was in a hurry, ad neglected all the details. I will post again when I get home. Thanks for the response. I've actually seen the inside of a boot once before on my driver's side. Very old, 89 actually, mechanic was helping me replace a strut, and didn't tie it up. Fell out and huzza. Since replaced it, but it was a real pain to put it together again.
Nah, not harsh. Just a reminder that people aren't omnipotent.
Long story short, my car had a wobble from day 1 that got progressively worse, or more annoying, I'm not sure which. Lots of money later, Honda says I've a seal leaking that they do not recommend replacing, and that they'd suggest a new transmission. I did so. As well as cv shafts, intermediate shaft (used ) and a week later, it was done.
Before I even got out of the parking lot, I reversed and went back in, pretty pissed as I turned the wheel, and the car followed, but when I straightened the wheel, it went on its way still. They said they'd align it. Uh...sure I can go with that...I guess. Regardless, they corrected the issue quickly.
Get out of the lot and I'll be damned if it's not still doing exactly what I brought it to them for, 3 times now. Plus, it's makes some odd tick, but louder than a tick when in gear. Goes away , or gets drowned out passed 3rd, and doesn't do it while idling and giving it gas. Best guess from anyone is exhaust. It's definitely a repetitive sound though, speeds up and slows down with applied pedal pressure, and stops whike the car is shifting from 1st to 2nd, and 2nd to 3rd, etc. I've since put around 30k on it and it's still there.
Feels like the car is dragging sometimes, and sounds like the shoes are rubbing inside the rear right drum but I can't find anything any time I've jacked it up, which is an embarrassing amount of times. Hell, I put new front brakes on yesterday with a jack, and 1 jack stand in 10 minutes. No impact either. Point is, I've done it alot.
New tie rod ends recently, both CV shafts have less than 15k on them as the driver's side sheared in half a while back. Another trip to Honda on that one, which I wasn't the nicest of people to them that day.
Still, a wobble like a shopping cart on front pass side. Seems to be bouncy as well, and the transmission drag I guess I'd call it, happens more frequently. Like I'm in a gear to low for the speed, and pulls.
Seems like many issues, but I've been all over this car and spent well over its value, but I'd feel like a punk at this point if I got rid of it without figuring it out.
Posting a video is possible but I don't know if any of the things will be noticeable in one. The car has so much road noise you'd not believe it.
It would appear that my Engine Torque Strut Mount is bad. Pretty odd name if ya ask me. Got one coming this morning. If I don't manage to drop a car on my head, hopefully it'll be the fix.
I did hear an odd sound while you were driving that could be associated with a torque strut potentially. Although you're free to replace it, I'd like to take a slower approach if possible or at least see a picture of the old mount once that's done. I'd also like to, if you dont have the service manual, provide you with relevant torque specs and such. When chasing vibrations, noises and such, one can't overlook that stuff.
I noticed that you have some indicator lights on but I didn't identify all of them, just TPMS. I don't assume anything indicated there is relevant to your fault at present; but I would like to offer that if those lights were on when you took the car to the dealership, and you weren't taking the car in to fix those faults, it can greatly impact the quality of service you receive.
Now in regards to the torque strut: It does indeed have a funny name, but an accurate one! Torque is a twisting force, strut in this instance is a brace. When you apply throttle while in gear, the engine wants to rotate. It's supposed to spin the wheels, but the engine itself will do the spinning if that is the path of least resistance.
The deal with this fault is, if the TS ain't like, broken, chunks missing, loose, it'll likely only allow the engine to rock when the throttle is applied. If it's really bad, yeah, the engine may rock due to bumps in the road. That could potentially rob power and make the vehicle shakey because the engine's heavy and may move within the bay. But the torque strut only limits range of motion front to back, so lateral effects of a failed one would be comparably less significant compared to forward/back.
Thats all I've got for right now but I'll keep thinking!
Yes, lights aplenty currently. It's rather bothersome really in an annoying sort of way. The light you called TPMS is an accurate description I guess, but there is a light that can come on that literally says TPMS which isn't on. I'm pretty sure the manual says that is for a bad sensor, the one that's currently on is for low tire, which annoys me greatly as I have no low tires, and when the tires warm up, it shuts off, sometimes.
The BRAKE light that's on indicates the parkjng break on, which it's not, but I am also missing both wheel speed sensors on the front. 1 by my own hand replacing a hub, the other by Honda when my CV sheared in half after the transmission change.
What else? Um, Airbag! Tons of emails about the darn thing. I've taken it in there times for the recall, and each time have to sign a waiver because of a "counterfeit airbag". Very annoying. Car was not taken great care of before me unfortunately.
Pic of the old mount...yup. I'll let you reply before I comment on the changes, if any, after the herculean task if swapping it on the ground, after putting the damned thing in upside down first. That was an adventure.
I worked at a tire shop for a few years and remember a few things! Like for one, as tires rotate they flex at the point where they contact the road, and heat up, and transfer said heat to the air within raising air pressure. Its usually 2-3 psi difference (makes those digital psi gauges seem awfully dumb, eh? Pressure's changin based on environment and altitude, splitting hairs over it is for folks on the track or rock crawling)
I'll have to look into several things here.. The TPMS indicators.. in most vehicles (at the time when I saw many) would just have one indicator light. Think if it was solid, you had low pressure, if it flashed you had a bad sensor? Or maybe vis versa. I always have a pressure gauge in the car, as well as an emergency bag with jump cables, a pump and such. At any rate, if a sensor is bad they can be reasonably replaced by a tire shop (though no rush). I think.. since they last a fairly long time (mine are still OEM!) I'll make sure they stay working. Getting those lights shut off is a big deal for getting a car serviced, if only that it lets the guys know you care, and want a fully fixed car vs. one that just drives.
Now, the speed sensors. those cost over a hundred bucks a piece even from rockauto if memory serves. ABS sensors can be important for reducing braking distance, and a partial failure can result in funny brake pulsation when using em. My curiosity is if having a screwed up brake system could send funny signals to the computer, making it run the car weird. I'll try looking into it, though its not likely the cause of your primary complaint.
As for the airbag, I don't understand whats going on with this talk of a counterfeit, but I believe this is what the recall is for: "Tens of millions of vehicles with Takata air bags are under recall. Long-term exposure to high heat and humidity can cause these air bags to explode when deployed. Such explosions have caused injuries and deaths."
If you think your airbag may need replacement, man, do what you gotta do.
Tried to have it fixed just to get them to stop harrassing me about every week. 3 visits, 3 waivers. I think I've done my due diligence.
The torque strut mount looks ok to me, but it wasn't for the car is night and day better. It still isn't perfect, but about as close as I've ever had it. Ive learned from experience though to not count my chickens.....
Right, got so caught up I forgot about the torque strut. I'm shocked to hear it yielded a notable difference. I'd also like to see it from the side if possible? The other, smaller rubber isolator on it may have more visible wear?
Also, stoked to hear you got an improvement.
With that in mind, hah, I'm inclined to question other engine mounts and struts/strut mounts.. Lower control arm bushings.
10-25-2020, 09:21 PM
