Got a new-to-me 2011 sport MT.

sway bar end links seem shot, as it’s been clunking at low speeds.

I don’t have any maintenance history for the car.

what items should I get, and what’s a reasonable cost for each?

Guessing I need spark plugs, valve adjustment, end links, anything else?

Also, a local shop gave me these quotes, these reasonable? What is “needed” and what can be done later?

sway bar end links: $141 parts + $74 label = $215

spark plug & valve adjustment: $70 plugs + $25 valve cover gasket set + $300 labour = $400

driver side passenger door actuator broken: $300 door latch + $108 labour = $400

 

Your valve lash adjustment ought to have been done at 100k with plugs and coils. $70 in plugs alone is outrageous, I spent $25 on NGK OEM pregapped plugs, about $80 in OEM coils, $10 on valve cover gasket (Honda pricing). The cost of labor is great, just not the parts. Do a little work on your own tracking down parts (rock Auto is great, but compare there prices to other vendors, I saved $15 buying coils from Amazon) and just bring those when you drop the car off for service.

Consider a new water pump, along with a timing chain tensioner inspection. Those are the big ticket items at 150k-ish

 

Oh wow yeah, those sway bar links are way cheaper on Rockauto, $40 for the pair vs $141!

Thanks for the confirmation on pricing, and I'll get a quote for the water pump.

 

^^
The Moog problem solver are really beefier then the OEM ones too!

 

Suggest replacing the serpentine belt and auto tensioner if you are doing the water pump replacement. New thermostat would not hurt given the miles and age of car.

 

Good Gawd... I bought mine with the same amt of miles. The fixes that are suggested will turn your Fit into a 25K car.
Just go by your maintenance minder and forget about it. Honda's are durable.

 

Probably will stick with the sparkies and maybe coils but will skip out the water pump/thermoboy

 

Why replace coils if they are working? Doesn't make any sense to me!

 

Looked like it would save some labour for if it was needed. You think worth to just wait until they break instead?

 

Not sure the slow speed clunking is sway bars but your certified mechanic should be the qualified guide. If the mechanic recommended new sway bar links, I would change them. Do NOT drive a car with suspension issues.

Does the passenger side door work manually or is this just the "power" feature. If the latter and the door works perfectly in manual mode, I might ignore it given the price, but that is up to you and your mechanic.

If you don't have any maintenance records, I would consider (at least) the following:

- Pay your mechanic to do a thorough inspection of everything, just to make sure the brakes, tyres, steering, suspension, etc. are in good nick (some call this a PPI)
- You should not skimp on the plugs, there are plenty of threads about them. Make sure mechanic sees updated Honda torque recommendations.
- Valve adjustment should be done out of precaution as you will see in the forums the exhaust valves tend to tighten up.
- At this age, you should consider fluid changes; corrosion protection and lubrication fail over time and use so you can prevent problems down the line. Brake fluid, coolant, oil, transmission oil.
- Change the cabin air filter; this can prevent a failed fan resistor pack, which is expensive.
- Change the engine air filter.
- Run a few tanks of premium fuel from one of the Major gas stations (Mobil, BP, Shell, etc.); this will help clean out the engine.
- Get the battery and charging system tested as we move to winter temperatures.

 

yeah mechanic mentioned it’s sway bar end links.

PPi has been done, and they just mentioned missing a shield on the bottom.

Passenger door does not work in power or manual. Also the car will “try” to lock every time I pass 15mph or so. Also no honk when I try to lock the doors by remote. I’m considering trying to fix the actuator myself as it’s a little annoying having one unlocked door and street parking.

 

It sounds like the lock mechanism is binding, obstructed (not seated properly, ect.), or broken. I'd be curious to find out which one.

I was going to chime in to caution you against steering and suspension parts with greasable zirk fittings (I've yet to work with a single one that actually let you purge old grease without the boot tearing during or within a week after, and i've replaced a fair number of ball in sockets) but that doesn't seem to be a consideration here since all the available components I reviewed on rockauto are sealed.

I can't wholeheartedly recommend moog. Despite their robust appearance I've personally experienced their tie rod outers breaking from normal stuff (like hitting a pothole) and their bushings ripping sooner than OEM. My moog sway bar end links were toast after 15k miles, but the ball joints are still okay for now.
I'd recommend checking with a dealership for Honda parts, and if they're not much more expensive than aftermarket alternatives (some are quite reasonable, though memory fails me in regards to specifics of which ones) go with Honda. It was also my observation that honda's gaskets for intake and such were more robust and also are reusable.

 

local dealer says Honda sway bar end links are $98 each, vs $17 for the moog at rock auto. going to have to go Moog for now and see how it goes. I don’t drive much, around 5k miles a year.

 

That's a safety issue so get it fixed as a priority.

Moog parts have been hit or miss for me too. I think that their quality has slipped lately.

@Pyts I had similar boot issues with Moog droplinks with grease-able zerk fittings. Also, everybody forgot to grease the droplinks @ 5k mile intervals. This summer, we swapped some newish drop links from zerk back to sealed and my truck mechanic buddy went BONKERS. In his truck world, he always goes zerk as the sealed just don't last. But he's buying premium industrial parts, not Moog consumer rubbish.

 

It's failed in unlocked state, so my door is just permanently open . Neighbourhood is safe here and I don't keep stuff in my car

 

My 2005 Honda Accord is still on the original coils without any problem. I would replace as needed and not throw any money if not necessary. Coils should not be a maintenance item.

As for the links, to each their own! I've replaced many OEM links, every 2-3 years. They never lasted very long for me. For now, never had to replace the Moog ones. Might have been lucky, I don't know. Had them for many years on the Accord. Installed them a year ago on the Fit. Will see in the next few years...

 

My fit has 267k miles. what should i look for for maintenance?