Hello all,
I have a 2009 Sport and several years ago I purchased a Sprintex supercharger and installed it. I got the complete kit which comes with piggyback comp and everything needed for install. Was supposed to be a plug and play setup. Once installed it ran for a couple of days and started having lots of problems. Lots of jumping, hesitation, and went into limp mode. After several days of talking with customer support, the original programmer, and two more piggyback ecm’s, I found out the stock ecm had to be reflashed. I chalked it to something I had done as I was assured that the piggyback does nothing to the stock ecm. Fast forward couple years, while driving the car to work one day it just died. I replaced the head thinking that was the problem, to keep story short won’t go into details about that and why as that was not the problem. Was told prior that none of the cylinders are firing. Once everything was back together, the car started and ran for about 3-4 sec before I shut it off. Upon restart, the car will turn over but will not fire. Tried all three piggybacks that I have and even tried it without the piggybacks. It appears that I am right back at the same place as before where I will have to get the stock ecm reflashed again.

Does anyone know as to what would be causing me to have to get the ecm reflashed like this. Seems like there is an underlying problem that needs correcting. Is the piggyback causing this issue? Should I get a complete new ecm from a junk yard and that flashed to my vin? I need to get this car running again as my backup vehicle is about to die (valve issues). Just had a baby so don’t have the money to take to a shop to track down what the issue might be. Thanks in advance for any help can provide.

**UDATES**
1. This time the Sprintex Comp didn’t mess up the ECU. Piggyback probably is messed up and caused to car to die but after removing supercharger and piggyback car will start and run. Now have other issues trying to sort out.
2. P0335 and P0507 - Fixed - caused by me not plugging in crank position sensor -
3. Multiple Miss-fires on all cylinders and random miss-fire - Fixed (needed valves adjusting)
CURRENT ISSUE - No DTC’s at start, idle until warm then will not idle. When trying to hold a 3k rpm during warm up, rpm fluctuates a lot and hard to hold steady. Once warm rpm can be held steady but won’t idle.

 

No easy way to find out, except trying it out. Junker ECU would be a nice thing to try if you have access to one cheap.

Could be the piggyback, could be a short in the harness, maybe faulty connectors, who knows. That's the risk of modding the engine unfortunately. Sorry to hear about your problems, hope you figure it out...

 

Thanks Azuki. I have access to a junker ECU but figured that would not be a plug and play and wouldn’t really save money at that point. If someone can confirm no immobility issues I would definitely try it.

 

The piggyback is crap. People in this forum (that I know of) who used the piggyback all had problems. I would advise against a junkyard ECM. If I were you, I'd remove the supercharger, reflash ecm to stock, and start saving for ktuner + tuning.

 

Yeah, that is what I was thinking as well. I was hoping there was another way but figured that is what I would have to do. Also, was looking for some help with why the ECU is messing up. Wondering if anyone else had ran into a similar issue.

 

First update. Removed supercharger and put stock intake back on. So looks like during the re-install of the head and supercharger I pinched the fuel line. I was trying to run it in a way so that it wouldn’t stick out as much. Was too far into taking it back to stock and also looked at it as a sign to wait and get the K-Tuner. Car started up but wasn’t running the way it should. Car is still on jack stands so couldn’t drive it to test anything yet. Only have 1/4 tank and has been sitting for a while so going to get a gas can and fill up the tank. After that, going to reset the ECU and go through the idle control system learn procedure and see if that will help. Fingers crossed hoping to have more good news to report tomorrow.

 

Well that would be awesome if it was just a fueling issue. Mechanical issues area almost always less headache then gremlins in the electronics. Let us know what happens

 

Check the plugs too, make sure they're tight. A lot of people report loosening or ejecting spark plugs.

 

So car ran but not well. Will not rev over 3k and acts like its on the rev limiter. Very sluggish power. Can’t find my code reader to see what the codes are, will update once I find.

 

Update

Found code reader, throwing CRK position code and idle air high code. Did some searching on codes and determined I didn’t plug in the crank position sensor plug in. Got it plugged in and car runs almost normal.

Currently will not idle and dies even while moving. Getting misfire codes for all four cylinders and random misfire. Any ideas on the culprit?

Forgot to add what parts have been added upgraded thus far.

Injen Cold Air - HKS Hi-Power Muffler - Weapon R Header - NST lightweight crank pulley (just added pully)
Have other upgrades as well but they would have not effect on how the engine runs.
*Removed Sprintex Supercharger

 

These are the only possible answers to the problem that I can think off but I’m no mechanic.
1. ECU issues
2. Timing chain jumped a tooth
3. PCV related issue

When taking the head I put everything at TDC, zip tied the chain to the cam sprocket, installed a spacer to hold the crank timing sprocket in place, and zip tied the chain tight so it wouldn’t move. When putting the head back on made sure everything was at TDC and reinstalled sprockets. Currently both the PCV and the valve cover vent are routed to a catch can that vents to atmosphere. The input for these on the cold air intake is plugged. Any help or thoughts is much appreciated.

 

Vacuum leak somewhere? or maybe due to bad PCV valve?

 

Vacuum leak could be plausible. Don’t think PCV would cause but not certain. I didn’t notice any blow-by or pressure related issues when I removed the oil dipstick. Didn’t notice an idle change either but like I said, I’m not mechanic therefore don’t know if that would rule out PCV or not.

 

So Misfires have been fixed. Head looked very low miles when put, even head shop looked very new. Could even see all the cross hatching in the cylinders from the motor it was removed from. Installed head with out check valve clearances as was assuming was good. Should not have assumed as intake was super tight and exhaust was way loose. Valves have been adjusted and all DTC’s have been cleared. I used the go-no-go method and runs way better. No more misfires but now will not idle at all or stay running if I let off the gas. Really need to get this car running again as my other car is about the sh!t the bed. The motor in it is a ticking time-bomb waiting to self destruct. Any suggestions and pointers would be highly appreciated.

 

After lots of research, I unplugged the MAF just for giggles. Car runs but with high idle and of course, DTC’s. I’m assuming I will need to replace MAF and all will be well? Don’t want to assume too much anymore if you know what i mean.

 

Quoting Pyts (from https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...sport-t.html):

Besides the idling, the car drives alright? That would further encourage us to assume a vacuum leak, since engines run primarily on vacuum while idling (or so's my understanding.) That'd be good news. The mention of fuel smell and the presence of excessive carbon in the exhaust would lead us to believe the engine is running rich. Here's a list of common causes:

1. Faulty MAF Sensor
2. Faulty O2 Sensor
3. Faulty MAP Sensor
4. Faulty Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
5. Bad Intake temperature sensor
6. Faulty Fuel Pressure Regulator
7. Bad Fuel Injector

End quote.

 

Thank you very much for quoting that as when I tried to click on the link I get an error message and can’t look at the original post. Would like to read it if possible.

Something I just noticed and haven’t mentioned is car stops idleing once it warms up and the cold water light goes off. When trying to hold a 3k rpm during warm up, rpm fluctuates a lot and hard to hold steady. Once warm rpm can be held steady but won’t idle.

Looks like I have some checking of sensors and possible vacuum leaks. Hopefully will have how to check all of them in the Haynes manual. Thanks again for the help.

 

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