2nd Generation (GE 08-13) 2nd Generation specific talk and questions here.

Stutter under light acceleration

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  #21  
Old 07-27-2021, 04:14 AM
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Loose plugs was an issue for my Fit, that was only solved with a thread insert.
 
  #22  
Old 07-27-2021, 07:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Pyts
First cylinder is belt-side. Glad to hear the issue is fixed!
Spark plugs can actually have their own sort of blow-by. Gasses from combustion escaping through the threads around the plug if it loosens or through the body of the plug, like between the porcelain and metal bits. Much cheaper to address than blow-by going around the piston rings, but a touch frustrating! Can wind up with faulty plugs easily. Every time I change mine I notice at least one discolored, some loosening, or all, shockingly. Despite the discoloration I've yet to encounter any failed coils, though i havent like, ohmed them or anything.
I change my plugs ~ every 15-20,000 miles due to use of IK22s, but have a feeling id be checking them just as often even if I didn't have to change them.​​​​​​
Not sure what IK22 plugs are exactly but assume they are something other than iridium plugs. Given the fact plugs are a pain to change on these cars I have to ask why are you using a plug like that ?
 
  #23  
Old 07-27-2021, 10:18 AM
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the plugs are performance ones. Here's the old article (posting as text cuz i think my old thread links dont work anymore): https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/ht...009-honda-fit/

If you google "GE8 IK22 plugs" you'll see some other subscribers and their threads on it too.
These plugs saved my marriage, inspired my pops to call and say he's proud of me, and are the only thing that gets my senile dog to go to the bathroom outside.
You've gotta try 'em.

Big asterisk: The more you mess with plugs, the higher the liklihood you may leave one loose or mess something up.

@Goobers Did you do an insert for all your plug holes? Were you one of the guys that had an ejection?
I installed a sleeve incorrectly (overshot) several years back and developed an aversion to it. When I finally take the cylinder head off to clean and install fresher gaskets (not sure when that'll be) i'll mull over doing plug sleeves. I think I'd want them to be welded into place if that's possible... I don't like the idea of siliconing in around knurled inserts.. That's what the old kit I used called for
 
  #24  
Old 07-27-2021, 01:09 PM
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I did not do all the cylinders, just one (#2).

It did not eject, but it did keep working itself loose. And that led to misfires and even breaking the grounding tip of the spark plug. I suppose, if it hadn't shown the symptom of misfiring, I wouldn't have noticed it... and it could've eventually ejected the plug.

The insert I use, can't be overshot. They have a "shoulder" at the top that stops the insert.

I bought these cheaper kits (I have more to do the rest... if I ever get around to it): https://smile.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-25...0825PWR6&psc=1

Here's a video on a similar, if not the same, kit:
It doesn't talk about all the aluminum bits you'll need to clean out... I used a vacuum with some tubing to reach inside. Spray in some brake cleaner and then vacuum again just in case there was more. I used cleaner AFTER the first vac attempt, so that it doesn't wash/pool/pack the shavings into a corner, where it might lodge too much of it. I was going to use grease initially (even applied it on the tool), but I kept worrying that the grease would just make the shavings stick to the inside if it fell off the tool. Maybe it wasn't something I needed to worry about.

The problem/question is... does the shoulder make the spark plug sit higher? Because the more expensive kits have multiple tools, one of which is to cut a recess for the shoulder. It's pretty thin/small, so it might not matter. I don't know for sure.

As for the knurled inserts, the ones I've seen have called for a tool that you use to spread that part, so it digs out into the top threads. https://smile.amazon.com/Heli-Coil-H...002SRF4O&psc=1

I'm not too keen on the knurled version, since it lacks the shoulder and you could overshoot it.
 

Last edited by Goobers; 07-27-2021 at 01:16 PM.
  #25  
Old 07-27-2021, 07:49 PM
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Man, that totally changes my opinion on sleeving spark plugs. The only ones I'd seen were helicoil (which was a hard no from me) and the knurled variant with no lip on it. This was around eight years ago now, I think. I totally overshot (though I didn't find out til later) and cut an intake valve to boot!
In regards to plug placement in the chamber, I understand your concern. I'd be inclined to see what's going on if you ever take the head off. I appreciate your linking to the specific product, too, cuz I'm sure inserts can vary across brands.

Oh, I'm sorry for de-railing this thread further but I should mention that I just changed my plugs after I don't know how long. I'd used copper spray-a-gasket to bind them in yet prevent them from seizing. Approx ~20k miles. They were all still in there, snugged up and what not, but i could break them loose without a ratchet (just socket and extension,) all four. So my clever idea isn't entirely blown, but it's busted as an absolute fix. This time I put them in with nickel anti-seize because it was on hand, but i'm intending to go back and try them dry once I get my compressor up and running properly.

I want to clear the threads by cutting slots into an old plug with an angle grinder, then some alcohol on a shop towel to degrease and compressed air to blow the stuff out!
I sympathize with your feelings on using grease despite it's coming thoroughly recommended
It doesn't make sense to me either to introduce goop for the shavings to stick to. I like your method of using brake-cleaner but would be a little worried about it contacting piston rings. I've yet to mess with those on anything and am as a result a touch paranoid, but metal shavings have GOT to be worse for rings (and cylinder walls) than brake cleaner.
 

Last edited by Pyts; 07-27-2021 at 07:55 PM.
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