Stuttering and Surging...Help while traveling.
Stuttering and Surging...Help while traveling.
We're traveling long distance for the first time with our 2009 Fit Sport. We've had a long day of going through the mountain roads. We normally drive flat Florida roads.
This evening while driving in the city, the car lost power during acceleration and flashed an engine light. I pulled over and the light went away.
It drove normal and didn't flash the light again, however, it's sputtering and surging sometimes. We've only driven 10 miles since the stall. (Also heard, or imagined, a slight grinding noise once)
Ideas?
This evening while driving in the city, the car lost power during acceleration and flashed an engine light. I pulled over and the light went away.
It drove normal and didn't flash the light again, however, it's sputtering and surging sometimes. We've only driven 10 miles since the stall. (Also heard, or imagined, a slight grinding noise once)
Ideas?
Last edited by cquick72; Nov 28, 2019 at 10:48 PM.
We're traveling long distance for the first time with our 2009 Fit Sport. We've had a long day of going through the mountain roads. We normally drive flat Florida roads.
This evening while driving in the city, the car lost power during acceleration and flashed an engine light. I pulled over and the light went away.
It drove normal and didn't flash the light again, however, it's sputtering and surging sometimes. We've only driven 10 miles since the stall. (Also heard, or imagined, a slight grinding noise once)
Ideas?
This evening while driving in the city, the car lost power during acceleration and flashed an engine light. I pulled over and the light went away.
It drove normal and didn't flash the light again, however, it's sputtering and surging sometimes. We've only driven 10 miles since the stall. (Also heard, or imagined, a slight grinding noise once)
Ideas?
A CEL (check engine light) with a loss of power is called "limp mode." The ECU triggers that if there's a chance of something damaging the engine.
As FitRallyX said, you should start with an OBD2 check. That said, some issues require physically opening and checking locations.
Sputtering can be caused by a misfire due to a failed spark plug or worse, an ejected one. But that's just speculation for now.
As FitRallyX said, you should start with an OBD2 check. That said, some issues require physically opening and checking locations.
Sputtering can be caused by a misfire due to a failed spark plug or worse, an ejected one. But that's just speculation for now.
Might want to try a bottle of Heet. Refer to this link. Https://www.goldeagle.com/tips-tools...nd-how-fix-it/
You can still retrieve the code although the cel is off now. Should still be there as a pending code.
You can still retrieve the code although the cel is off now. Should still be there as a pending code.
Might want to try a bottle of Heet. Refer to this link. Https://www.goldeagle.com/tips-tools...nd-how-fix-it/
You can still retrieve the code although the cel is off now. Should still be there as a pending code.
You can still retrieve the code although the cel is off now. Should still be there as a pending code.
Replacing it now, so we'll see.
Definitely check for loose spark plug and check all of them. Move the number 4 cylinder coil pack to another cylinder and see if the misfire code then goes that cylinder. If so replace the coil pack.
As mentioned earlier in this post, a good procedure to confirm/eliminate the suspicion of a bad coil pack is to move the coil pack from the cylinder that is missing- per the trouble code, to another cylinder. If the trouble code that results after moving the coil pack doesn't change to the cylinder you moved it to, you've eliminated the coil pack as the problem. A lot of people replace coil packs too frequently without actually proving the coil pack is actually faulty.
Additionally, as far as suspecting water in the fuel as the source of the misfire, I think you would have misfire codes for all four cylinders instead of just one if you had added contaminated fuel to your car.
There is a known design problem with Fit engines that causes plugs to loosen up and back out of their threaded hole in the head. There are a lot of posts on this forum that describe this issue, along with some tried fixes and their respective results. Make sure with any attempted repair that you make, also include having all the plugs checked for tightness. The original factory torque spec for our plugs was 15-16 ft lbs. From what I have read on this forum it's reported that Honda has revised their torque spec for the spark plugs to 20 ft lbs. Some people have also reported some success in using new plugs with new crush washers along with using blue locktite paste on the plug's threads before installation along with the 20 ft lbs of torque.
Read the following link- especially post #150 by spike55 bmw as to his experience:
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...ml#post1438963
Additionally, as far as suspecting water in the fuel as the source of the misfire, I think you would have misfire codes for all four cylinders instead of just one if you had added contaminated fuel to your car.
There is a known design problem with Fit engines that causes plugs to loosen up and back out of their threaded hole in the head. There are a lot of posts on this forum that describe this issue, along with some tried fixes and their respective results. Make sure with any attempted repair that you make, also include having all the plugs checked for tightness. The original factory torque spec for our plugs was 15-16 ft lbs. From what I have read on this forum it's reported that Honda has revised their torque spec for the spark plugs to 20 ft lbs. Some people have also reported some success in using new plugs with new crush washers along with using blue locktite paste on the plug's threads before installation along with the 20 ft lbs of torque.
Read the following link- especially post #150 by spike55 bmw as to his experience:
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...ml#post1438963
Last edited by 56chevydan; Nov 29, 2019 at 03:47 PM.
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