Valve lash adjustment
Valve lash adjustment
Valve lash adjustment
I'm planning to adjust my valve lashes on my 2013 Fit for the first time. I saw a video a while ago and it mentioned getting a new gasket and Hondabond. I have some general questions here for those that have done this procedure before.
1) I'm planning to get a new gasket and Hondabond. Is there anything else I need to get? Note: once I start, I need everything here to finish, since I probably won't have access to a vehicle to get anything.
2) Do I need this 10 mm jamb nut tool https://smile.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-...-no-redirect=1
3) How do I apply Hondabond correctly? Do I put it around the whole gasket? Just around holes for screws? Do wipe it on the gasket, or make a bead? How thick?
) What are the correct torques for all bolts? Should I use anti-seize?
) WHat are the correct feeler gauge settings?
) Is there a really good video or write-up on the procedure?
Any other hints or tricks.
Thanks
I'm planning to adjust my valve lashes on my 2013 Fit for the first time. I saw a video a while ago and it mentioned getting a new gasket and Hondabond. I have some general questions here for those that have done this procedure before.
1) I'm planning to get a new gasket and Hondabond. Is there anything else I need to get? Note: once I start, I need everything here to finish, since I probably won't have access to a vehicle to get anything.
2) Do I need this 10 mm jamb nut tool https://smile.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-...-no-redirect=1
3) How do I apply Hondabond correctly? Do I put it around the whole gasket? Just around holes for screws? Do wipe it on the gasket, or make a bead? How thick?
) What are the correct torques for all bolts? Should I use anti-seize?
) WHat are the correct feeler gauge settings?
) Is there a really good video or write-up on the procedure?
Any other hints or tricks.
Thanks
1) I'm planning to get a new gasket and Hondabond. Is there anything else I need to get? Note: once I start, I need everything here to finish, since I probably won't have access to a vehicle to get anything.
Assuming you have all the tools (ie extensions etc to reach the nut to rotate your engine), I’d do spark plugs as well.
2) Do I need this 10 mm jamb nut tool https://smile.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-...-no-redirect=1
Technically no, but it makes things 10x easier. Get it for sure.
3) How do I apply Hondabond correctly? Do I put it around the whole gasket? Just around holes for screws? Do wipe it on the gasket, or make a bead? How thick?
Typically just on corners and bends. You’ll see where the old Honda bond is applied, that could be your guide.
) What are the correct torques for all bolts? Should I use anti-seize?
) WHat are the correct feeler gauge settings?
In the video description.
) Is there a really good video or write-up on the procedure?
Assuming you have all the tools (ie extensions etc to reach the nut to rotate your engine), I’d do spark plugs as well.
2) Do I need this 10 mm jamb nut tool https://smile.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-...-no-redirect=1
Technically no, but it makes things 10x easier. Get it for sure.
3) How do I apply Hondabond correctly? Do I put it around the whole gasket? Just around holes for screws? Do wipe it on the gasket, or make a bead? How thick?
Typically just on corners and bends. You’ll see where the old Honda bond is applied, that could be your guide.
) What are the correct torques for all bolts? Should I use anti-seize?
) WHat are the correct feeler gauge settings?
) Is there a really good video or write-up on the procedure?
@JDFit Looks like J.B.'s got you covered. 
The Hondabond (I use a Permatex product, but it's the same idea) has never given me any trouble. A little dab will do ya. Just clean off the old bond and clean the surface. Very, very simple.
I have the Powerbuilt jam nut tool, and it does make the job easier.
You'll need a wrench to rotate the crank. Bigger is better for this.
If you do the air filter and the spark plugs, you've got yourself a tune-up.
Good luck and check back in here if you have any questions.

The Hondabond (I use a Permatex product, but it's the same idea) has never given me any trouble. A little dab will do ya. Just clean off the old bond and clean the surface. Very, very simple.
I have the Powerbuilt jam nut tool, and it does make the job easier.
You'll need a wrench to rotate the crank. Bigger is better for this.
If you do the air filter and the spark plugs, you've got yourself a tune-up.

Good luck and check back in here if you have any questions.
You can do it, OP. Just take your time. I wrote out a simple list of steps before hand so I didn't miss anything.
I've never seen that jamnut tool before, but it looks cool. Next time I do my valves I will probably get one.
I've never seen that jamnut tool before, but it looks cool. Next time I do my valves I will probably get one.
Last edited by GrE8_Fit; May 14, 2022 at 12:05 PM.
I did this few weeks ago..and...hardest part for me was coil bolt on cylinder 1 breaking off. And it was MAJOR pain to drill and re-tap. Mine had 167k miles and engine bay looked rusty. I would try to spray some rust penetrant to minimize this from happening to you.
Otherwise use the factory service manual for torque values...all directions are given, including where to apply.
Otherwise use the factory service manual for torque values...all directions are given, including where to apply.
@skytree Any link to the factory service manual for this procedure?
Do you know what section it is under? I've been searching but have not found it yet.
Sections needed (all referenced):
4-20 - 4-21 (if replacing plugs)
6-8 - 6-10 (Valve Clearance Adjustment)
6-22 - 6-24 (Cylinder Head Cover Removal)
9-2 - 9-4 (Intake Manifold Chamber removal)
11-307 - 11-308 (Remove air-cleaner)
20-168 - 20-171 (Cowl Cover Replacement)
20-185 (remove under-cowl panel)
22-264 (Wiper Arm Replacement)
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post



