The AC on my wife’s 2011 Fit Sport recently went out and I’m looking for some help from you smart folks in fixing the issue. A little background:

• Compressor clutch does not engage when AC button on dash is pressed.
• I replaced the compressor clutch set and field coil due to no resistance between power and ground. Spec is 3.6 ohm if memory serves me. The clutch and it’s contact face on the compressor pulley were both rusty and worn.
• Compressor clutch still does not engage.
• Swapped AC compressor clutch relay with both condenser fan relay and radiator fan relay. I believe I can rule out a bad relay.
• Confirmed interior fuses 10 (7.5A AC) and 43 (7.5A MG clutch) not blown.
• Checked voltage at the three pins on the bodyside connector to compressor. White wires (pins 1 and 2) read zero voltage. Pin 3 reads ~10V. I believe pin 2 should be sending 12V to the compressor for the clutch to engage (pin 2 corresponds to red power wire on compressor connector, pins 1 and 3 are input to the thermal protector). Pin 1 comes from AC switch on dash. Pin 2 comes from AC compressor relay.
• I ordered a cheap power probe knock off that should be here tomorrow. I plan to supply 12V to pin 2 on the compressor to confirm the clutch engages under power.

Additional questions:

• The green light on the AC switch on dash turns on when I press it. When pressed, should it be sending 12V to pin 1 at the compressor? Current reading zero volts even when button lights up. Is there a chance that the switch is broken and not sending signal to the compressor despite lighting up?
• Condenser fan does not turn on. Should this kick on as soon as I turn on the HVAC fan in the cabin?
• For the compressor to engage, should it be receiving 12V from all three pins on the bodyside connector? As mentioned above, 1 and 2 read zero V and 3 reads ~10V.
• What might cause the AC compressor relay to not send voltage to the compressor (pin 2)?

My wife took the car to a mechanic prior to me diving into this. He said compressor needed replaced and charged the system with freon. I don’t think this did much if the compressor was not running. Wanted $1000 to replace the compressor and after I’ve chased electrical a little bit, I don’t think that would have fixed the issue.

I think I may be dealing with an electrical issue but open to any suggestions. Thanks in advance for any help.

 

 

Several years back I had my fit's a/c go out. No leaks, no blown fuses, no bad relays. after following the manual and chasing volts/ohms I I replaced the field coil cuz it ohmed out at 4.0 and had a melted impression on it similar to if I torched a regular old pen and stuck the tip against the face of the coil. Well, the replacement coil had no melted depression, but brand new from the dealer it ohmed at 4.0 too. I grounded it to a ratchet I'd set on the parts counter 😂 still paid the $114 and installed it only to find that didn't solve my problem and I shoulda kept following the troubleshooting procedure, disregarding the minor irregularity.

I gave up. Electrical is annoying enough already, and I'm red/green colorblind to boot. Took it to a shop. Dude there had been wrenching professionally for 30+ years.. There was a singular broken wire under, I believe, the right front headlight. There was no trace of rodents anywhere in the engine bay or beneath the headlight.. He just fixed it and told me. I don't know if there was any sheet metal there that may have done the damage. I think I took the headlight off when I got home to verify his repair, but I don't recall seeing a reason for the wire to break.

Keep following the wires, disregard minor irregularities in resistance.

Can also try jumping power from the battery to engage the clutch and verify a wiring issue. or when it's supposed to be on, give the clutch face a wack to see if it sucks in.

Edit: I don't remember what's supposed to get what voltage where, but the service manual will solve it for you. It's on here I believe.