Hey, hoping to get some feed back. Went to start the fit this morning, no key in ignition sound, no power to anything except, horn, hazards, and brake lights. I don't even have radio. Checked battery connections, they are good, battery is good at 12.6 volts, even tried to jump it, and nada. No headlights, dome light, nothing. Maybe the ignition switch?
I just had new tires put on yesterday, drove about 5 miles to pick up the kids, drove back, stopped at the gas station, filled up, went hope and parked it, then wanted to check the tire pressures, moved it to the out garage, made some small adjustments, then moved it back to my parking space at the attached garage. It gave me no issues. In fact, this is the first issue I have had with it. 2011 with 218K
Thanks in advance Freaks !

 

Fuses?

123456

 

The fuses at the battery are good, I didn't get a chance to check the ones under the dash. There is a main one for the ignition, but wasn't sure which one it is, and I needed to get to work, se we pushed it out of the way so I could get to my truck

 

Since I don't have any power, or accessory, I'm thinking it's the ignition switch. It's only 40 bucks, ordered one, will have it tomorrow. If that is not it, will have it towed

 

I'm curious as to what it is myself. Please post back when you learn something.

 

Did you check the fuses visually, or with a multimeter?

Sometimes they are bad and you can't visually see it.

 

Yes, I used a multimeter for the ones on the battery.

 

Here's a couple of things to check:
Is the car a stick shift or automatic? If a stick, is there a bad clutch start switch on the clutch pedal?
Have you checked the main grounding point for the car's wiring harness located under the battery- grounded to the frame with a bolt?

 

Well, I believe the problem is one of the fuses on the battery terminal. I can jump the two center connections and get the car to start, and when I turn the car off, the fuse on the left, sparks. The two left connections only have about 2 volts to them when the car is off, the two on the right have 12.6

 

So, a resistive fuse? Should have seen that with the multimeter.

 

You can't just replace the fuse, you have to replace that whole assembly. I did see voltage at first, the fuse element is almost making contact, but won't support current

 

Definitely the let fuse on the battery terminal, removed the plastic cover, and connection is broken, soldered back together and she's got power and running. Of course this is a temporary measure just for diag, and to be about to move the car if needed. Replacement should be here on 8/10, ordered from Flea bay

 

Thanks for the followup. It's always good to hear what the fix is to a problem.

 

Good job! (plus random characters so I can post the message...)