Yes OEM is way to go for any situation. They are still a paper filter element inside but to Honda specifications. Filtech is a supplier for some OEM Honda filters. I believe any oil filter is fine as long as you don't push them to the limit. Along with oil. Just change it frequently.

On my Prelude, back in 2001. I switched out OEM MT fluid out for Royal Purple Gear oil 85w-140, and it alleviated the "infamous" 5th gear synchro grind that most Prelude owners experienced. I had purchased the car used from a Honda dealer.. and the 5th gear grind was already prevalent during the test drive. After I purchased the car, I switched out the MT fluid out and drove the car casually for next few weeks. During that time the shift into 5th gear, grind that occur kept getting softer and softer until the the synchros eventually wore-in to smooth out the shifts. To also take with caution, I also learned that using such a heavy gear oil will cause the shifts into gears to be hard or impossible during extremely cold or freezing weather.

 

Do you need a lift to get under your car? I don’t have one, so I can’t really change my own oil.

 

Seems like 10% on the minder is approximately 1000 miles.

 

Just a floor jack and 2 stands.

 

just jack up the front? I need to find another stand, then.

 

As always, exercise caution. I've done driveway oil changes countless times over the years. Two good jack stands and a floor jack should do the job, but if there is any chance that the car might move, use wheel chocks (or something, a brick maybe) to secure the rear wheels. Being pinned under a car — even a nice car, like a Honda — is not the way you want to spend your weekend.

 

You can get 2 decent jack stands cheap at your local chain auto store. And they're small and easy to store. Don't cheap out, they may save your life.

 

Blocks! Good point, MC.

 

I get all tingly when you talk like that.

We could be friends. As long as you're not from Queens.

 

Can I Use the Same Oil Filter Twice?

 

I do not drive alot, maybe 5-6 thousand miles but hit the 10% in 12 months. Normal city/highway mix. Maybe 1/2 of make up oil beween changes. No smoke, no unusual noises, no problems. The engine is spotless at 124k miles. I have tried all the oils oit there, and the M1 EP seems to work for my applications.

 

Oil life and intervals would likely greatly vary based on driving habits. Lots of in town commuting is going to be very different then interstate driving with regards to oil life. You also have to realize that the EPA probably has an influence over the frequency of oil changes in cars as well, so we can't always assume that 10k miles is safe for many reasons. With all that nonsense said, most dorks like us can read up and find many people who wouldn't dare go 10k miles between oil changes, but some that are completely care free and go 10k+ w/o issue.

My advice for diy oil changes is make ramps out of 2x6 or wider lumber, at least two stacked together to get the required height to fit a jack under the car to lift by the front lifting point (my fit sport won't clear normal ramps). Also wheel chalks should ALWAYS be used.

 

Thank you!

 

I order oil and filters from rockauto.com and usually order what I need (oil+filter) plus one extra change....so it saves little on shipping. I try to keep enough ahead for one oil/filter change so I can do it whenever it suits my schedule.

I use Liqui Moly 2208 0W-20....$40 for 5L on rockauto: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...t=12138&jsn=13
I like the quality of this German made oil but there are other quality oils out there too.

I also use Fram ultra synthetic filters....about $8 per filter: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...pt=5340&jsn=19

So my total cost per oil/filter change is around $36 (plus a little more for shipping).....for premium quality parts.

Oh and I have some Rhino Ramps that are like 20 years old now. They are still in good shape and have not cracked. My Fit seems to clear them OK if I go slowly. I also have a floor jack and stands in case I need to crawl under the car and the ramps don't provide enough clearance.

One tip from many years of working on cars....get yourself a headlamp flashlight if you need to crawl under the car or work on anything deep in the engine bay. It makes life a lot easier when you can clearly see screws/bolts/nuts when you are trying to get to them. Even on sunny days things get lost in the engine bay shadows.