Hope everyone's NY is runnin smooth. Got a quick one to ask, I got a bit of a scare today when out of the blue, my steering wheel was going in and out of losing power, ive had this happen to me once before and when i tightened the battery terminals the issue went away, i was about to repeat this process when i discovered one of my terminals (the metal part, photo) is actually cut through and through. You're all going to tell me i need to replace it no doubt but what i wanted to find out was how complicated is it to remove and replace?

There's the red plastic unit above it and i have no clue how to remove that. Also, does this part need to be OEM or can i get after market? Oh and how much will it cost on average? I know i probably shouldn't drive it as-is but i do need to get to work tomorrow so any heads up sooner or later is very much appreciated. Cheers.

 

You want to order Honda 32410-TK6-000 and also order 32600-TK6-000 (the ground wire) while you are at it.
I myself ordered both from hondapartsnow. The second one is easy to install and worth replacing given it probably doesn't look good either.
As for your positive, well that is more complicated. That red cover is just clipped on. You just got to pinch it a certain way to get it off.
Under that cover is a fuse terminal. The part I listed includes both the positive terminal and the fuse terminal.
You want both because this wire has to be connected to the alternator starter, so it isn't very quick to change.
Look up how other people changed their alternator and it will show you how to access and change this cable.


edit: it connects to the starter, not the alternator, sorry

 

SiXiam - Many thanks for the fast reply. How much did both these units cost you? Also, could i leave the fuse terminal as-is and just change the positive terminal or do both terminals need to be removed when replacing the positive terminal?

Cheers

 

Currently around $80 plus a shipping charge. I bought them like 2 years back, but they were only like $10 or so cheaper. If you google the part number it is the first hit with the price.
I don't know if there is a part number without the fuse terminal. But given the corrosion on the terminal I would suggest changing it regardless.

 

I see..maybe a challenge too big for me to try and replace but will definitley search this forum to find out how-to, in the meantime, sorry to ask again but are the two terminals manditory in my situation? Can i just replace ground terminal or is this not an option?

 

The ground wire is $20 plus shipping and easy to change. It just bolts to the frame. You don't have to change this right now, but also I don't know what it looks like. I'm just guessing it looks as corroded as the positive wire terminal. Here is mine a few years before I changed it.

 

My ground terminal is actually in good shape, no rust, but whats not clear for me (and this may be due to my own lack of knowledge) is, is the broken part you see in my photo, the part connected to the alternator? I think on my earlier response i may have confused ground and positive terminals..im sure by now you've concluded im not very mechanically inclined.

 

Yes the broken part (the positive terminal) is connected directly to the alternator starter. No big deal on whether you are good at mechanical stuff or not. Willingness to learn and figure it out is most of it. The rest is just time and experience.

 

Takin my hat off to you as we speak, thanks again fo sorting things out for me, last but not least, did you have the same scenario with the steering wheel locking/losing power on you too? I may need to drive the car a couple more days before i can attend to the issue, i'll obviously be extra careful and drive as slow as i can on regular streets as opposed to freeway, hopefully i can manage it.

thanks again

 

No, mine wasn't broken like yours. I had an issue where it seemed that the posts on the battery were undersized, so over time this damaged the positive cable terminal when trying to tighten it down. It twisted the whole thing, plus it was old and corroded anyway. Driving with that broken terminal is not good to do. If it was me I would want to do something temporary if I had to drive it. Put a wire in the break, solder it and hot glue for good measure. Not sure if that would even work though.

Also almost forgot to mention that yours likely cracked because the metal rods holding down the battery were loose.

 

Yea- it had been loose in the past so it makes a lot of sense - vibrations/speed bumps etc may have pushed it to breaking point, lets hope for the best. Many thanks indeed.

 

Good info, SiXiam.

I'm trying to figure out how this part reaches all the way to the alternator (?).

 

Oh god, you are right. It goes to the starter. Don't know why I have been saying that. Feel dumb.

 

No sweat, amigo. You've done great work in this thread.