Fuel injector malfunction code
Fuel injector malfunction code
Hi everyone! Got my first honda fit few months ago and I've been loving it. It it at 130K km
I noticed lately that the engine has been a bit shaky when idling at a stoplight or not moving.
Yesterday I left the house and a minute later CEL started flashing. There was not much power when I hit the gaz, and definitely at least one cylinder misfiring. I can push the gas pedal all the way and engine won't go above 3000 rpm on neutral.
I had P0304, P0204, P219A (archived, inactive), P0302 (temporary, not confirmed), P0300 (temporary, not confirmed).
Started by putting in a new spark plug in cylinder 4 although the one in there did not look too bad, feel like they have been changed recently at 100K.
After that I cleared the codes, started the engine and still no power with P0204 active and P0304 archived.
Anyone ever had similar issues and any advices? Or just straight up start by replacing injector on cylinder #4?
Thanks
I noticed lately that the engine has been a bit shaky when idling at a stoplight or not moving.
Yesterday I left the house and a minute later CEL started flashing. There was not much power when I hit the gaz, and definitely at least one cylinder misfiring. I can push the gas pedal all the way and engine won't go above 3000 rpm on neutral.
I had P0304, P0204, P219A (archived, inactive), P0302 (temporary, not confirmed), P0300 (temporary, not confirmed).
Started by putting in a new spark plug in cylinder 4 although the one in there did not look too bad, feel like they have been changed recently at 100K.
After that I cleared the codes, started the engine and still no power with P0204 active and P0304 archived.
Anyone ever had similar issues and any advices? Or just straight up start by replacing injector on cylinder #4?
Thanks
I've been in a similar situation. Couple months after I got my '09 sport, sometimes the CEL would flash and the car would stop accelerating. Got worse and worse over time. A scan said it was a misfire in cylinder 3.
The way I fixed it was by outright replacing all the spark plugs and coils. No problems since then. However, that obviously might be a little expensive. I saved money by finding a mechanic who accepts custom parts and buying cheaper parts at Autozone. Of course, doing the job yourself will save you the most money.
If you feel like the Spark Plugs are healthy enough though, then the issue likely lies in the coils so you can narrow it down there. If you can inspect those then do so, it would suck to lose money by jumping to conclusions.
This is just speaking from my experience though. Exact same issue, though there's no guarantee my fix will work in your case. I do urge you to at least look into the coils. Best of luck fixing the problem!
The way I fixed it was by outright replacing all the spark plugs and coils. No problems since then. However, that obviously might be a little expensive. I saved money by finding a mechanic who accepts custom parts and buying cheaper parts at Autozone. Of course, doing the job yourself will save you the most money.
If you feel like the Spark Plugs are healthy enough though, then the issue likely lies in the coils so you can narrow it down there. If you can inspect those then do so, it would suck to lose money by jumping to conclusions.
This is just speaking from my experience though. Exact same issue, though there's no guarantee my fix will work in your case. I do urge you to at least look into the coils. Best of luck fixing the problem!
Hi - Welcome to the forum. Just curious if you're located outside the US? I noticed you listed a town only for your location, and mentioned KM for the miles on your car. Anyway, only important I guess to understand if you have a quality source for the fuel you put in your car.
I'm aways curious about misfires when they happen in more than one cylinder at a time. The first question I have is did you just fill your car up with fuel when these misfires started? If a recent fill up caused the multiple misfires that would lead one to atribute the problem to bad fuel.
If there wasn't a fuel fill up just before the misfires started then we'll have to look for another cause. As you probably know, the DTC codes 0201, 0202, 0203 and 0204 refer to injector issues in cyl 1, 2, 3 and 4. The 0301, 0302, 0303 and 0304 DTC codes refer to misfires in those same numbered cylanders. Instead of just throwing parts at it without diagnosing the cause of the lack of power and the misfires, it would probably be prudent to look at a factory repair manual and follow the diagnosis flow to accurately find the problem. A factory repair manual has been stickied to the top of the Gen 2 Fit face page. It can be downloaded as a help/referance.
As a last thought now, you should also search this forum here for loose spark plugs occuring in our Fits. You mentioned you removed one of your plugs and it looked good. Originally the factory torqued our original plugs to 13 ft/lbs. Some people think this has led to spark plugs coming loose and backing out of their threaded holes in the Fit heads. After researching those posts you'll find it is generally accepted that a higher torque is needed. I'll leave that higher torque needed to your research. If you want that figure, pm me and I'll provide what I believe it should be after I read those posts.. With the head being aluminum you bhave to avoid over-torquing them. I mentioned this issue here now because under-torqued plugs can lead to misfires. Good luck.
I'm aways curious about misfires when they happen in more than one cylinder at a time. The first question I have is did you just fill your car up with fuel when these misfires started? If a recent fill up caused the multiple misfires that would lead one to atribute the problem to bad fuel.
If there wasn't a fuel fill up just before the misfires started then we'll have to look for another cause. As you probably know, the DTC codes 0201, 0202, 0203 and 0204 refer to injector issues in cyl 1, 2, 3 and 4. The 0301, 0302, 0303 and 0304 DTC codes refer to misfires in those same numbered cylanders. Instead of just throwing parts at it without diagnosing the cause of the lack of power and the misfires, it would probably be prudent to look at a factory repair manual and follow the diagnosis flow to accurately find the problem. A factory repair manual has been stickied to the top of the Gen 2 Fit face page. It can be downloaded as a help/referance.
As a last thought now, you should also search this forum here for loose spark plugs occuring in our Fits. You mentioned you removed one of your plugs and it looked good. Originally the factory torqued our original plugs to 13 ft/lbs. Some people think this has led to spark plugs coming loose and backing out of their threaded holes in the Fit heads. After researching those posts you'll find it is generally accepted that a higher torque is needed. I'll leave that higher torque needed to your research. If you want that figure, pm me and I'll provide what I believe it should be after I read those posts.. With the head being aluminum you bhave to avoid over-torquing them. I mentioned this issue here now because under-torqued plugs can lead to misfires. Good luck.
Thanks for the replies @slippyfit and @56chevydan!
Thought I'd let feedback for anyone who might run into this weird issue. Started with easy tests, swapped injectors then coils between 3 and 4 but the main issue still was that injector #4 malfunction code, which kept the misfire code up. Other cylinders misfires did not show up again, so it really was about #4.
If you have the same codes, you might want to start by checking resistance of your injector, which in my case confirmed the injector was toasted. Just replacing the injector would not have worked because the pcm was actually not sending pulse to injector #4, but would still show proper voltage in the injector connector, so the noid light test was a must here.
Had to replace PCM and injector as well. Weird stuff for 130K 2013 FIT. Hope it's not a common issue!
Thought I'd let feedback for anyone who might run into this weird issue. Started with easy tests, swapped injectors then coils between 3 and 4 but the main issue still was that injector #4 malfunction code, which kept the misfire code up. Other cylinders misfires did not show up again, so it really was about #4.
If you have the same codes, you might want to start by checking resistance of your injector, which in my case confirmed the injector was toasted. Just replacing the injector would not have worked because the pcm was actually not sending pulse to injector #4, but would still show proper voltage in the injector connector, so the noid light test was a must here.
Had to replace PCM and injector as well. Weird stuff for 130K 2013 FIT. Hope it's not a common issue!
Last edited by Gueth4; May 3, 2024 at 10:39 AM.
Thanks for the replies @slippyfit and @56chevydan!
Thought I'd let feedback for anyone who might run into this weird issue. Started with easy tests, swapped injectors then coils between 3 and 4 but the main issue still was that injector #4 malfunction code, which kept the misfire code up. Other cylinders misfires did not show up again, so it really was about #4.
If you have the same codes, you might want to start by checking resistance of your injector, which in my case confirmed the injector was toasted. Just replacing the injector would not have worked because the pcm was actually not sending pulse to injector #4, but would still show proper voltage in the injector connector, so the noid light test was a must here.
Had to replace PCM and injector as well. Weird stuff for 130K 2013 FIT. Hope it's not a common issue!
Thought I'd let feedback for anyone who might run into this weird issue. Started with easy tests, swapped injectors then coils between 3 and 4 but the main issue still was that injector #4 malfunction code, which kept the misfire code up. Other cylinders misfires did not show up again, so it really was about #4.
If you have the same codes, you might want to start by checking resistance of your injector, which in my case confirmed the injector was toasted. Just replacing the injector would not have worked because the pcm was actually not sending pulse to injector #4, but would still show proper voltage in the injector connector, so the noid light test was a must here.
Had to replace PCM and injector as well. Weird stuff for 130K 2013 FIT. Hope it's not a common issue!
The fit NEEDS the valves adjusted regularly, they are not self adjusting and will affect drivability eventually.
Coil packs are good for 80 to 100K miles. Buy NEW Hitachi.
Plugs are plugs, I do new ones ever 30 k. Even when they claim ridiculous mileage from the OEM..
I use the NGK's due to availability.
Coil packs are good for 80 to 100K miles. Buy NEW Hitachi.
Plugs are plugs, I do new ones ever 30 k. Even when they claim ridiculous mileage from the OEM..
I use the NGK's due to availability.
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