It's been about 40k miles since my last valve adjustment. Car runs great, but things sound a little noisy. And yesterday I heard a new noise that I haven't heard before. Dang.

When the parts arrive, my plan is to do a valve adjustment, spark plugs and air filter, then see if that takes care of the "new noise."

I'm gettin' too old for this, boys. This will probably be the last tune-up that I ever do. Soon, I'll be off to that heavenly junkyard in the sky. Do they have AM/PM Mini Marts in heaven?

Feel free to post any reminders about tune-ups. It's been a while, and I don't want to wait until I'm up to my elbows in it before I remember that I forgot something.

 

Good luck. What's the noise you hear?

I sold my GE last month. The new Civic is so overwhelmingly competent it surpasses any Acura that was on sale when I was in high school. Almost boring to drive, though also excellent. In any case, it's surely safer.

I am not happy with the disappearance of the small cheap car. Now that imports are tariffed and sure to go only in one direction, we'll never have them again. The automakers have no interest or ability.

 

It's a faint, metallic whir or rattle. Seems to be on the firewall side of the engine. It's impossible to diagnose "noises" on the Internet, so I'll have to see how it goes after the tuneup.

A Civic with an MT could be buy next car. Don't know of they are available. Haven't shopped yet.


EDIT: Going to Harbor Freight today to buy some electrical disconnect pliers. Wish I had known about these years ago.

 

Remember to adjust he valves in proper firing sequence. Don't ask me how I know. Good idea to adjust valves before diagnosis of funny sounds. May not be valves though. Best of luck, Clay

 

40k miles seems like not much mileage for a valve adjustment if it were performed correctly the previous time. Whir/Rattle might indicate serpentine belt idler pulley, although not really on the firewall side of the engine. An automotive stethoscope, also available at HF, could help locate the noise. Just be careful around rotating things. Should be able to put it on the tensioner safely.

Mark

 

Mini marts well-stocked with all the best drinks and candies!

For a valve adjustment, I'd remember to have some silicone handy, and maybe a few razor blades to get the old silicone off, or a plastic scraper. Then some rubbing alcohol, some spray lube, and a pack of very fine scuff pads.. Oh, and shop towels/rags. All that fuss just to make sure the cylinder head to timing cover seams are clean for new sealant. Oh, bear in mind that the new silicone needs time to cure! At least 12 hours, but 24 would be extra comfortable.

I'm due for a valve adjustment, too. Whenever the engine starts to get noisy, plugs and/or valves. One of them usually does it, or else I'll have to think. It's like reaching into a big, overstuffed hefty bag with my eyes closed
what comes out is as much a surprise to me as everyone else.

Here's a song for you, my friend. I hope you enjoy it as much as I do.

 

Hmm. I have always adjusted them in cylinder order, left to right as you are looking at the engine from the front of the car. Isn't that what the service manual says?

EDIT 1: Hold on a sec. I'm going to check the book. You may be right.

EDIT 2: You are correct. The adjustment order is 1, 3, 4, 2.

 

It is more of a rotational sound than an up-and-down sound. And it is coming from that general area where the serpentine belt tensioner is. I was up all night thinking it might be a loose spark plug, but I think I'm panicking.

 

Question 1: Can I rotate the crank with the spark plugs in place, or do I have to remove them to relieve the compression? I can't remember.

Question 2: The Owner's Manual says the number for NGK Spark Plugs is 1ZFR6K13. The local auto parts stores are giving me 1ZFR6K11 as the their number. What is the correct spark plug number?


EDIT:

 

You can rotate it with the spark plugs still in, but it makes it harder stop at the right spot for the proper gap. You're pushing, pushing, pushing; then compression releases and you have a tendency to go past your mark.

Both my replacement sets have been 13's. I think that's a heat range. Ideally, the color of your current plugs would dictate the need for hotter/colder plug, as I understand it.

 

@zcargo Thanks, Z. I'll pop out the plugs before I start. I hate dealing with the plugs on the Fit because they are so hard to reach, but it must be done. By the way, I ordered the 13s.

 

@Pyts I don't use gaskets that you squeeze out of a tube. Only a grunt in the motor pool would do that. 'Freaks should show more class.

 

Just get a new gasket beforehand. Not that expensive, sealant not cheap either! Mine had a cut it it so I replaced it, new gasket always a good idea. Get a stethescope too, they work well. Harbor freight one is too cheap, if you buy one, don't drop it. Cheap plastice will crack.

 

I had to replace my idler pully due to a whirring noise. Advance sold me one with a bigger bearing of good quality.

 

😂 I remember we had dielectric grease soaked felt rings we'd put on battery terminals. The grease was red. They were referred to exclusively as bloody assholes.
Jesus, there was a Vietnamese guy there who learned English from us...

 

guy makes the tensioner and belt replacement look not too bad. Just have to remove the right front wheel and plastic shield to create some working room.

 

Getting the belt back on is the main problem. Much easier if the thensioner is fully retracted as far as possible. I used a ratcheting strap on mine. Some people have an assistant which would help. When installing the belt, leave the ac pully for last and rotate the motor with a wrench, there is hole in the platic skirt if I remember right. You will need a 19 mm and a long extension to rotate from the outside of the wheel and pop the belt on while rotating the motor. Turn to the right for motor rotate. If it won't go on, try tightening the ratchet to retract the tensioner better. Best of luck, Clay

 

I've always left the tensioner pulley for the last since it has a rounded edge without a lip. The belt is also flat on that side so it just slips into place.

 

Sounds like I'll only need three extra hands.

Thanks for the tips.