Hello everyone, I noticed that my car is behaving strangely when cornering. If I turn right and accelerate, the car will oversteer, while I would expect to understeer as all the front wheel drive cars. In fact if I turn left that's exactly what the car does.
I had front wheel alignment checked twice.
Wheels are new (less than 5000 km), front suspension is perfect, new bilstein b14 adjustable (second set, same hight as before)no play anywhere front or rear. Rear has hardrace anti roll bar. Front has hardrace inferior suspension components.
I would reduce the possibility to a couple: engine mounts almost gone or universal joints. There is apparently no free play in engine at rest, but two of the three engine mounts are not in sight. No noises turning back and forth the steering wheel to suspect the halfshaft joints.
What do you think?
I will start replacing the engine mounts. By the way, car is manual lhd 2012 GG1 (Europe version GE6/GE8 like) 300k km.I cannot find the correct left hand engine support correct code... Any hint?

 

My fit (a us version ge8 2010) had a weird similar problem with steering. Sometimes would veer a little and would maneuver a little worse turning right then left. Never ended up confirming what exactly was wrong. But as soon as i rotated the tires and changed the steering rod ends it went away. I would suspect in your case it's most likely one of the shocks is worn more than the other, check if its leaking or one side of the car bonces more. Might help you hunt down the issue. I f not i recommend jacking the whole car up and checking the suspension bushings with a pry bar and seeing if any of them have more movement than others, might also be part of the issue.

 

Changing engine mounts (main right and torque, not left one as I couldn't find a manual one available anywhere) reduced a little the oversteer but it is still there. I think is torque steer but why should show up only on right hand turn? No sign of it while left turn. Absolutely not on straight. No noises from UJoints while turning back and forth at low speed. Should I change them anyway? It is going to be expensive and tricky (4 joint + probably front hub bearings) so I would pass if not sure. How can I check is front struts have same angle?

 

Lift the front passenger tire off the ground, grab it and shake it up and down, then do the same with the front driver side. Something is messed up. Mine is solid and hard to move. I bet yours has play. RussianIcedTea said something similar about checking with a pry bar. Not sure if you did that.

 

I already did it and I wrote the front suspension is absolutely firm. Coilovers are bilstein B14 and they have been changed less than 5k km. Other suspensions components are ok and lower arm is stiffer than original (hardrace). The car doesn't wander anywhere, but only when turning right if I accelerate I experience that strange behaviour, that looks exactly like an excessive torque streer. I recently discovered that there should be a procedure in the HDS to reset a torque sensor on the steering. If there is a sensor to reset, could that be faulty? I will look in the HDS, but as long as I didn't touch the steering rack, if needs to be reset probably something has broken. Anyone experienced something similar? As I wrote, there are many possibilities, faulty UJ or intermediate shaft usually show up with associate noises and there is none. The workshop manual has a procedure for a torque sensor that should be reset when removing steering rack or other components. As long as I did not find any "torque sensor" in parts catalogue, it is probably embedded in the rack and not serviceable. Maybe something comes out from this test. Otherwise I should consider changing both halfshaft and intermediate shaft bearing (a pain for time and costs) and/or steering rack itself (even worse). The last component I would consider failing are rear trailing arms bushings. After 300k they could be softer then they should and I wonder if they could asimmetrically condition the car turning (in this case the left rear should be deteriorating)

 

I checked the "torque steer sensor". It is part of the steering rack and I guess it is only used for the power steering assistance. So it should not be related to the torque steer phenomenon.

 

I have run by chance an "health check" test in HDS. I found a DTC code in the Abs/vsa section that was not even suspected because no light was on (no cel, no abs, no vsa light). The error code is 83-11. The brief HDS explanation was that this is a PGM-FI malfunction-related code. So it has been set as a consequence of a DTC set by PGM-FI, but no other code can be found in the PGM-FI section. The HDS cannot clear the code. The system gives back "the interface device in use does not support the required functionality to execute the function requested". The test section of the abs/vsa section is not available because of the presence of the DTC. I looked into the group database and I found a procedure to clear this DTC that requires jumping the OBD2 pins and pressing the vsa-disable button a couple of times. Did any of you experience something like that? As long as the VSA could be responsible for the car behaviour while turning, what could trigger such an unusual dtc?

 

I don't know anything about the code. I've seen low voltage codes in mine, which are are apparently common. Likely from a time when my battery died.
Just like your problem steering it is hard to give any advise, beyond start tearing things apart, checking and replacing. I know some people have trouble with the ABS wiring to the wheels.

 

I found a procedure to reset the Abs and visa. On my car ABS reset procedure worked exactly as reported, while VSA reset did not work at all, but I discovered that using scs button while on the vsa page of hds software was enough to clear the 83-11 code.
Following is the procedure to reset the abs and the one that was reported to clear and reset VSA that didn't work in my case.
Two step procedure:Jump obd2 port n9 and n4 (should be chassis ground)Abs reset: ignition offPress and hold brake on
Ignition on (do not start engine, just key on start position)Abs light will be on and then turn off.When turns off release brakeAbs will turn on again Press brakeAbs will turn off Release brakeabs light will flash twiceProcedure for abs is over.
Vsa reset: Jump N9 to ground (pin n 4 should be ground)Do not press brake!Turn ignition onVsa should come on and then go off.When it turns off press once VSA buttonVsa light should come on againPress vsa button again Vsa should flash twice Vsa procedure should be completed.Turn ignition off remove ground. In my case vsa light was on just after turning key on, but did not go off after pressing VSA button. Light was off after some seconds just like it does every time key is turned on but stayed off since then.
The dash computer showed SCS SERVICE and DTC No as long as pin N9 and N4 were shorted togheter.
Pin n4 of the OBD2 port is reported as chassis ground. I found a different file on the web that suggested that ground for the vsa procedure should be really a chassis point and not pin n4, but I did not try because as I said, hds was able to clear the DTC as soon as I used the scs function in the vsa page of hds Honda software.