Fella's can you shed light on this urgent situation? I recently got rear-ended and whilst i navigate the at faults-insurance red tape, i'm trying to figure out if there is any way i can securely lock my car.
So when i use remote to lock it makes no sound and will not lock, the unlock button makes the beep sounds but obviously wont lock. Is there any way to manually lock atleast the doors..ofcourse the back is mangled and does not shut as it should so it wont lock but atleast if i can lock all the doors...Cheers.

 

Back when I was a kid in the 20th century, we used to lock our doors by pushing the door lock plunger or flipping the door lock lever. Why can't you do that?

 

Plunger days - when life had so much more alternatives hehe..so what you are suggesting is lockiing the "lock/unlock" button on the arm rest on the door to be precise right?

So to unlock it, will manually using the key work? Silly i didnt think of that..but i did try to use the key manually to lock it from the outside but the key would not engage, then i got worried i may damage the key if i force it clock/anticlock wise

thanks for the speedy heads up.

 

You have a lock lever on each door. Flip them manually. If you're unsure of whether the key will unlock the driver door for some reason, roll down the window and test it.

Unless you have some other problem you haven't specified here, there should be no danger using the key to lock/unlock the driver door. That's why it's there.

 

D-u-h! Sorry for sounding so foolish - It just didnt dawn on me..i simply tried the key from outside and when that did not lock the door i simply gave up. Will test the theory asap and thankyou. One other curious question..i realize the trunk lock does not work because the trunk lid no longer aligns correctly, so if i get the body work done, do you think the electric locking mechanism in general is ok? Is there a way to know if its ok or do i just have to wait till i get the body work done and the trunk lid alligns with the rest of the car - to find out? Thankyou.

 

I just checked my 2010 Fit Sport. With the tailgate open the power door locks don't work (no sound, no locking of doors or tailgate) as you have described. So, I would say there's a good chance that yours aren't working because the tailgate can't shut properly. Fix that and (hopefully) the power locks should work again.

 

@Drew21 - Thankyou!

 

Glad to help and hope you get everything (literally!) straightened out. Good luck.

 

With all other passenger doors closed, open the hatch and use a suitable device (screwdriver, perhaps) to close the latch on the hatch (this is where the switch is to detect the hatch is fully latched)(should be 2 clicks.) Leave the hatch open. Then try the lock button on the key. All doors, including hatch, should lock. You can test by operating the handle on the hatch. It should not unlatch with the handle until you unlock all doors with the button on the key. This will test the electrical operation of said latch.

Mark

 

The lock button on the inside of driver's door should lock all other doors even if the hatch isn't fully latched.

 

UPDATE: So this is what happened..Yes you can manually lock the doors from inside by switching the lever on the arm rest area which weirdly enough managed to lock the trunk as well BUT when i tried to lock the driver side by using the actual key on the outside of the door, the alarm went off. The good news is that the electronics on the trunk lock is still working despite the mangled state of it. Anyone has any more suggestions?

Thanks

 

I had a simiar issue and found the easiest way was to order a matching color hatch from co-part or one of the other on line auto wrecking yards. Easy bolt in an 1 wiring harness to fiddle with and done. I think it was 125 for a whole rear hatch..

 

@dwtaylorpdx - Thanks for the tip..wow that does sounds like a good price. So did you take off & and install the new one by yourself? Do you know of any helpful videos that demonstrate the installation of a new hatch? Any further advice much appreciated.

 

The yard shipped it to me in a box , its like 4 bolts to remove and the wiring harness to fiddle with, had to unplug in the left rear signal housing from inside the car, don't need to pull tail light, My 24 year old daughter has tiny hands and she did quite well getting the wires out and then we used a harbor freight wire-fish rod to drag it back in. Literally took about an hour and a half. Easier with two people so you can hold the hatch while removing the struts that holds it open,, oh and the hatch is not a brutal weight but it is heavier than it looks. IIRC shipping was about 40 bucks and I had them send it to a UPS store.

 

Thanks again for weighing in..i'll conduct a search for the hatch and see what happens. I was initially looking for a temporary solution because i am still dealing with the at fault drivers adjuster.