Thanks again for the awesome writeup. I need to find a nice 4' black bungee cord for my setup. Just finally ordered the 12" JL Audio grill cover to protect that bad boy...$10.85 shipped!

 

great write up... if i did the same job, the woofer would be on the floor sitting shotgun.

 

hey , anyone know where the firewall is on the 09 fit? i found one on the passenger side and i routed my amp power cable there but i couldnt find one on the driver side , theres one above the gas pedal but usually it doesn't look like the usual gromet , help! i want to relocate the wire , thanks!

 

Great install guide, except prying can be completely avoided--with some minor disassembly you can just weasel your arm through the guts in the dash and push the head unit out from the inside.

 

nice... very nice! question: where did you tap the remote wire for the amp?

 

Use the cigarette lighter power wire. It is only on when the car is on.

 

Agreed. this is where I tapped for my V1 install. use an Add-A-Fuse and it's even easier, and removable.

~SB

 

Is there a big difference by hooking the amp up to a speaker wire rather than using a new head unit? (Assuming you may have had experience with using a amp and aftermarket head unit)

 

Subwoofers don't sound too bad with high level inputs.

 

great! thanks for this write up it is exatly what i need for my friends sub install

 

Just got done installing a basslink in my Fit. This thing sounds fantastic for the size. You wont impress anyone outside of your car but there is more then enough low end for you and you passengers. I have mine connected to a Pioneer F700BT headunit.

a couple of tips:
- Use Anderson quick disconnects on your power and ground lines. This makes removing the sub a 2 second job

-I used a 35" black rubber bungee cord from Lowes. wrap it around the Basslink and connect both ends to one of the cargo mounts. This holds the unit perfectly in place and prevents any movement.

Some pics:

 

Both of your installs look great--

Quick question--what benefit do the newer Basslink II versions have over the older models like yours? Any ideas?

Also--if you had someone install this (I am a NOOB at electronics), about how much would this run?

 

Man this is the exact setup I am looking to migrate to. Loving those Anderson quick disconnects, that is key. I need to figure out the exact gauge of all my stuff and order those. Can you recommend any place? Also thanks for the Lowes 35" tip, perfect. Guess it's time to sell some stuff and make the switch. Thanks!

 

I have a basslink just sitting in my room from my older vehicle. I was maybe planning on putting it in my fit one day, but audio is NOT a priority right now. Would anyone be interested in it? I'd probably let it go for cheap.

 

I purchased the Anderson connects on ebay:
SC23005G8 - ANDERSON CONNECTOR SB50 - 8 AWG CONTACTS - eBay (item 370293740938 end time May-18-10 22:49:57 PDT)
These are for 8 gauge power wire. The seller also has connectors for other sizes. Buy two, both sides are the same. Also, don't try to solder the connectors, just crimp them on. Much easier and they hold great. Definitely feels like a solid connection.

The Basslink II has 50 extra Watts of power (200 vs 250). Also the II can be upgraded to house an aditional amp to power your door speakers (50 watts each I think). This, however, also makes the Basslink II slightly larger.

 

I don't know why you said That's the wrong red wire in photo... What exactly did you use a Red wire for? If you're looking for the 12v accessory wire it in fact is the orange one stated on that map you wrote out. It's easy to find the location all you need to do is count the wholes on the plug Left to right and top to bottom! I used the orange (accesory) to turn my amp on and off when I turn my key to the off position my amp goes off. When the key is in ACC or on the amp is on. I did shoot some photos and wire from the rear speakers since I was thinking that the rear speakers do a whole lot less for me when i'm driving. I might update them as soon as I get a chance.