Got rained on

2 J's bumpers, so jealous!!

 

Was actually yesterday... I put some LED bulbs in my tail lights. After a couple of hours, I took them back out.

In terms of brightness, I wasn't really sure whether they were brighter or not. If they don't appear dimmer, I was willing to leave them there... however, I never got a chance to decide that.

Later, when I attempted to arm my Viper remote starter, it kept failing on me. The moment it attempted to flash my lights to indicate it was armed, it would disarm. Figuring the LEDs had something to do with this (as it was the only thing I did since the last time the remote starter worked), I swapped them back to normal bulbs. And of course, the remote starter worked properly again.

If I had to guess, the Viper unit relies either directly or via the ECU on the circuit attached to the tail light to know if the brake pedal was pressed. The LEDs did, or perhaps didn't do something that made them think the brakes were pressed.

 

that's odd. i have no problems with my viper, however my ECT turns off whenever i auto start it.

 

You don't have an MT Fit... part of the arming process for me is to keep the car running and let the system lock AND shut down the engine. Hitting the brakes, breaks the process.

 

Wash and waxed my CBP today

 

Possibly the lack of current draw from the LEDs. If you can wire in load resistors, you might be able to correct the issue.

 

Not feeling like splicing in load resistors at the moment. They don't appear to be brighter than the filament bulb to justify the effort.

 

Changed the transmission Filter... yeah i made a mess because when the closer end of the filter is disconnected some liquid will come out... the far end of the fliter is "dry"...



Drained the Tranny fluid, cleaned the magnet, replaced with new DW-1, 3 L drained initially...



And using the method described by other members of the forum, drained/flushd the remaining fluid by disconnecting the transmission fluid return from the Radiator ( which actually ends up at the filter, running thru the space between air throttle and transmission).....


Used 7L of DW-1, mpg improved 0.4 ( yey!) , tranny feels way better, softer... I am sure the FIT will appreciate since it has only 30,000km...

Thanks to all the members who posted their experiences, because it allows people like me to get " dirty" with confidence...

 

Went to the dealer today for an oil change at 13,877 miles. Previous oil change was at 6302 miles. Almost 8k on the last oil. Not bad. I know some people are getting almost 10k miles per oil change. Used a coupon too for $19.99. Can't see any reason to spend $59.99 for semi-synthetic at the dealer. The service tech came up to me too and said she loves my PRM intake!

 

That's expensive without the coupon. My dealer in san diego charges $39.99 for full synthetic 0w-20. 5w-20 is $35.

 

Since we're talking fluid prices here(sort of), I'd like to know how much your guys dealerships charge for ATF dw1? And what sizes they come in.

My dealership wants 10 bucks for every liter(slight more than a quart). Wondering if this is too much?

And they don't seem to offer any other case sizes besides 1 liter bottles...

 

The service tech was a girl?

 

yeh she was pretty cute too =)

 

Just purchased an 09 MT Fit and could not believe how uncomfortable the stock shift knob was. Well it turns out someone peeled off all the original rubber.


So I swapped it out for my trusty old Nardi Personal Knob. I got from the Nardi booth at sema back in 06. I've had this thing on every MT car I've owned.

 

Great looking Shifter.

 

Hi all! Today I purchased my first new car. A 2013 Honda Fit Sport in Midnight Plumb!

 

Welcome to the forums, Dad2! You will no doubt enjoy your Fit as much as the rest of us Freaks do.

 

Replaced my block heater cord. We'll see if this one does better. Last one got torn in two places. No wonder it didn't do anything for cold starts. I'm going to try starting it cold tomorrow to see if it works. Morning temps are in the -30 range, so if it works, it was probably the block heater this whole time.

I still have to button up the cord properly, but I'm going to wait for spring to do that. Once I know I can undo it, and if it doesn't go back in place right away, I don't need to worry about getting it back in right away.

 

I had been running the Conti DWS 205/50-16 on the stock wheels. These are great tires for our winters (southcentral PA). I wanted to see if a 16x7 wheel would "firm" up the feel since it always felt it "jiggle" left/right and up/down.


I didn't spend must for the Focal F-10 wheels but it did firm up the ride. I reused the TPMS units but did buy rebuild kits for <$4 ea. The threaded stems were corroded from road salt but used a brass-wire brush to clean everything before reinstall. Torqued sleeves to 36 in-lbs.


I'm still playing around with tire pressures and 38 psi f / 33 psi might be the ticket between solid feel and better gas mileage. 33 psi all around killed off 2 MPG.


The F-10 spokes don't come out too far past the lip plane of the wheel, so I hope "curbing" isn't an issue. These have a 43mm offset versus OEM 53 mm, so 10 mm is less than 1/2" diff. Another $500 would have gotten me substantially lighter / better made wheels but that's not me at this point in time.


The best / cheapest solution would be a better selection of tires in the OEM size of 185/55-16.

 

Thank you much! I was hoping the bronze would work with the purple.