hotkey, looks great! Sorry to hear it's too loud cause it looks great on the car.

 

 

 

Thank you guys so much! Got the piggy back in there! The only problem I having now is when I went to test start power comes on but when I try to start the cars power dies and seemed to need to reset. I'm assuming it's a grounding issue.

 

Is everything plugged in?

I can't say for the newer piggyback, but I know the older piggyback wiring harness cuts into/interrupts two wires (I forget what one of them is, but I think the other is the CKP wire) that will trigger limp mode if the signals for those two aren't properly transmitted... that can be caused by either something not plugged in, which happened on the first start up as I got the wires in, but forgot the actual unit. If everything is plugged in, it can also be caused by a faulty piggyback, which was what eventually happened to me later. There are other wires involved, but they aren't cut into, just connected to ("T" into).

Because you're using a plug-n-play wire harness, it involves many more wires than what I dealt with... one of those other wires could possibly be the issue also (if a pin is loose or something). Does the car start/run if you revert to the factory wiring only?

 

As far as I know everything is plugged in. I'm thinking its grounding because there was a small spark on the negative terminal and at the point where the grounding wire is. Everything seems fine until I try to start. All I hear is a click and immediately everything shuts off and take a few seconds until you can get power back on. I'll check the computer for codes tonight and see what it says.

 

Hum... completely shutting off is something I'm not familiar with, so I can't say what could cause it.

But if you say there's a spark... if the wire is fully tightened down, maybe try cleaning the contact points with a wire brush to scrape off any buildup.

~~~~~

Is there a possibility you swapped the ECU connectors around? B from harness going to C of the ECU? I don't know about the harness from Sprintex, but the factory plugs have symbols on them to make matching up pretty straight forward.

 

I'll recheck the wires but I remember lining them up correctly and double checking. From a brief google search on the symptoms other people have fixed it by changing the battery cables or charging the battery so I'm hoping it's just not grounded properly and when i try to start it loses contact and shuts off for safety. If cleaning and tightning doesn't work I'll post a video of what it's doing tonight.

 

 

There isn't enough info to say. Generally if they have a manual it is changed more frequently.
On the other hand most people change the fluid and filter somewhere between the later end of 100k miles to 120 miles.
Some people change just the fluid at like 60k miles with automatics.

 

Yeah, it's too bad. Oh well, moving on....

Another fellow from the same club referred me to a fabricator who does good work. Sent the car in today to have a custom muffler made. I requested a loop-style muffler to keep the noise down. Pictures to follow.

 

 

So I cleaned all the battery connections today and it fixed the power shutting off problem. I got to test start the car and it sounds like its running okay. When I gave it a tiny bit of gas it hesitated and sounded like it kinda wanted to stall. My egr is only bolted down with one bolt at the moment so it's possible that is causing it. I'm waiting for the weather to clear up before I got and get everything finished up so I can go on my first test drive! I forgot to put the throttle body flange plates on when doing the install so I need to fix that. I also broke the head off the screw of the MAP sensor so I need to extract that as well. I'll attach a video of the car running and a pic of the broken screw below if anyone has any advise!
Video and picture of screw

 

Replacement REAR rotors arrived from Coleman Racing
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...ersion-17.html
Time flew very fast and after many happy powerful braking miles and 3 rear pads replacement, My rear rotor finally worn out.

I modify the size just a tiny bit larger diameter (now 13.18" vs. previous 13.08" diameter) to fit the brake pad surface better.
I will paint the inner surface of the rotor later (the one that is not in contact with the pads) black to make it look nice and prevent corrosion.

 

13" rotors for the rear of a Fit are going to have zero real world benefit.

 

Eye candy is always a real world benefit.

I think FF will be a brighter place once you live out your dream of not owning an automobile at all. If I were an admin, I'd rename your account "Debbie Downer."

Edited to add...since he's going through rear brake pads (and I don't think he's using a drift stick), maybe he got rear brakes on a Fit to actually do something. His car is WAY beyond any original spec in practically every way imaginable.

 

mike410b, I have known your post for years... I don't understand why you always have to be "NEGATIVE" in 99% of your post?
You like to point out other people mistake or weaknesses sometimes without even thinking the background of that other people... or the reason why???
like just a few days ago, you point out that a price of a wheel is not expensive according to you, but do you ever think that for the other person, they might be limited to a certain budget?
I have much more example if I dig your posts, but then again, I don't really like to find negative of others

Now, back to my case,
as point out by GAFIT, (THANK YOU GAFIT) and I totally agree, EYE CANDY is a TANGIBLE Benefit (not just for me, I am sure also for you, ie. your S2000?)
In fact, the EYE CANDY factor is the most important factor driving my modification. I am not doing this to race or track, I just want to be Happy just by looking at my car.
Yes, I am proud to say, I am going for "looks"

Having said that, do you notice that I had change 3 rear brake pads since I modify my rear brake with this JDM Integra Type R Nissin Aluminum Rear Caliper, and after 3 brake pads change, now I see the needs to replace my current rotor?
Compare that with the life of the original rear drum brakes that came with USDM Honda Fit... the rear drum brakes last forever,... why?
because the way the original brake system setup (brake bias etc)... the drum brake where never much a factor in braking...
While in my case, my current rear brake actually do decent braking, that is why I had replaced 3 brake pads so far, (my front brembo pads and rotor might need to be replaced soon, and that also indicate how hard I am driving my car on the street).

Contrast that with mine...
First, as you know I have a 355mm Six Piston Brembo Caliper with Type 3 rotor upfront. So I need to upgrade my rear brake to have a much better brake bias balance, and that is why I need the 13.18" rear brake with the JDM Integra Type R Nissin Aluminum Rear Caliper.

My background is a Chemical Engineer, graduate from USC, but my passion is in Mechanical or Electronic, thus as an engineer, I will NOT sacrifice Performance or safety just for looks.

I actually do a CALCULATION for PROPER Brake Bias, and that is why I upgrade the JDM RS rear axle (that already came with disk brake and rotor) to a much larger custom rear rotor and the Type R caliper.
I calculate the piston size of both front and rear rotor, the swept area or the pads, and the brake master cylinder. Thus that 13.18in did NOT came from the thin air.

Oh, don't forget I have 225/40ZR18 Michelin Pilot Sport 4S tire so grip is NOT a problem, and I can take advantage of all this newly found braking power... plus many more mod to the suspension to prevent weight transfer/nose dive/fish tailing during braking...

not bad huh, when my original intent was just for looks?

My advice to you,
STOP being NEGATIVE to people, Look at your self in the mirror, then SMILE and be POSITIVE.
Be TOLERANT to other people who might not be as fortunate as you, and remember many people are SMARTER or have more EXPERIENCE, or have more MONEY then you.
otherwise, someday you might hate this world so much and committed suicide...if that happened, please remember, help is always a phone call away.

 

Honestly any certified oil (5w-20) should be fine for your car. I use mobil 1 full synthetic and change it every 6-7k. I drive my car hard and am supercharging it so if you drive normally you could probably just change it when maintenance minder tells you.

 

Nice!
Looks like there may be enough material left of the broken screw for a vise-grip to work.

 

If you're wondering why I'm having a custom muffler made (again, actually) but haven't touched the rest of the exhaust system, here's the long story:

I bought and installed a Weapon R style 'header' about a year, or so, after I got the car. Problem was, the rest of the exhaust system, mid-pipe to muffler, would 'rattle' somewhere around 4k rpm. Terrible noise. So I started to save money to upgrade the rest of the exhaust system.

One time, I tried a straight through axleback muffler; it was much too loud. I theorized that all aftermarket straight through mufflers would be too loud; there isn't enough space for a muffler big enough to bring noise levels close to stock. Time to do some research.

I came across an old, out-of-production, style muffler called a twin-loop muffler, which is said to be very quiet. These mufflers were made for Honda Civics and Integras; too big for the Fit. I browsed several pictures of looped mufflers and came up with a design that would be easy to make and fit the Fit.

Sometime last year, the OE midpipe was replaced with a bolt-on from HKS, which worked well. However, OE axleback muffler sounded like it wouldn't last very long. I had to put my idea to the test. I asked a muffler shop to make this:



A two-pipe muffler with a loop on one end, inlet/outlet on the other. And it worked! It made a little more noise than stock, but not too loud. Good enough for me. And it looked alright, I think:



The pipe-end was their idea, by the way. Sadly, there were one or two problems:



1. I asked the shop to put the loop inside the rear bumper so the muffler could be bigger but, over time, the rubber hangers would probably lengthen, causing the loop to hit the bumper.



2. the flange didn't quite fit evenly on the gasket; the bends and welds could be better.