Well it might see an increase in exhaust flow if using a bigger diameter piping, not sure how restrictive the stock mid-pipe is inside, I'm sure it also uses 45mm piping, but it might be restricted more on the inside. That may play a part in what the ECU sees.

 

might as well kill both of them. I would keep the stock b pipe. I doubt any NA applications (short of cams, P&P, bore over, etc.) would see any benefit beyond the restriction being freed up from the cats, anything more will likely result in diminishing returns. That stock resonator in the B pipe is the sex and I wouldn't lose it for the world.

 

I think T1R showed their b-pipe made a difference... can't remember though, and gains were minimal.

 

It's a personal preference but when I hear a car with no cats, no resonator, and just a straight through muffler, it usually sounds like stereotypical rice. As others have put it "bee in a microphone"

 

Haha, I hear you. Doesn't the T1R Bpipe have a resonator though?? Again, it's late, and I could be mistaken.

About a month ago a beat up saturn with dual exhaust pulled up beside me and gave me a mean racing look. He proceeded to floor it from the light and it sounded like CRAP. Bee in a microphone is a pretty good way to describe it.

 

The Megan down pipe has a resonator in place of the catcon. Exhaust noise is louder with the throttle open and a header through stock mid pipe and a free flowing axle back pipe.

 

yea the t1r has a resonator. and i think its like 6mm larger in diameter so not too much bigger. and its unfortunate that you cant put on a header on the ge8.

 

straight thru from header with no resonators... like gun fires and 10 times louder when revving
megan racing on my 6th gen accord
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y60...E/P1010294.jpg
down pipe... catback with resonator + dyno+aero
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y60...E/P1010301.jpg

Isn't there 2 sensors on the Fit? My accord does.

 

alright lets say i just took of the rear cat. which is the one that hits the stock bpipe, has the 02 sensor and is NOT the one tucked up in the engine bay.. so what are the risk if any or concerns if i was to drive without the o2 sensor hooked up or a pipe even in place to go to the nearest muffler shop.. about 10 miles? if the 02 sensor isnt hooked up will the car not run right? and do i run a risk of getting something too hot and melting by having it just open pipe? i need help asap before the place closes..

 

Like I said... Like gunfires. The pic above is my 6th gen accord. Megan headers, down pipe and test pipe, the rest is a straight through pipe, no secondary and out through an Dynomax-Aero... LMAO gunfires!!!

 

yea i know it would sound loud as fuck but im saying is there any problem with driving around with the 02 sensor not hooked up and no pipes hooked up from the other cat? i mean there would be just an open hole.. could the exhaust heat damage anything?

 

It won't hurt to drive it.... A lot of people cover the sensor with aluminum foil and duct tape it to the frame or what ever.... Your CEL will come on within 100 miles max if the sensor is in the test pipe and that can be fixed with a spark plug non fouler between the sensor and bung.... I just came in from doing work on my car and before the day is over I will have done that trick to my car..... Expect loud exhaust noise and noxious fumes. you can put an old spark plug in the bung, do that if you don't put the sensor in it.

 

from what ive heard if i put on a test pipe even with the o2 sensor in there i will eventually get a cel because the 02 levels wont be right that the ob computer is supposed to read.. and im trying to avoid any problems in order to keep my warranty

 

That is why I told you to plug the fitting (bung) with an 18 mm spark plug.. You can get a pair of 18mm spark plug non foulers at an auto parts store for 6 or 8 bucks and screw one into the other and place the pair into the fitting on he test pipe and screw the O2 sensor into the threads of the 18mm non fouler and the light won't come on because the sensor isn't directly exposed to unburned exhaust... Like I said in my 2nd sentence the sensor can be left out.... You can get an 18mm drain plug and copper washer at NAPA or other well stocked parts store for the fitting....I'm just sharing what I have learned about how to not trip a code. All you need to do to turn off the light is disconnect the positive battery cable and hook it back up.

 

We already talked about this, the 2nd 02 sensor on the GE is actually before the 2nd cat. By placing a straight pipe with a bung for the secondary 02 sensor, the ECU should not really see a difference in the A/F ratio and in return not throwing a code.

Remember the pic you posted below...

 

yea i think i figured out it would be a problem but i have run into a few speed bumps and im at a stall.
first things was i went to the dealership and asked how much for a new under floor cat conv and he was like $700.. so gutting the current set up is out especially if i want to go back to stock. so i put my car on jack stands to take off the cat and boy was it rusted on there.. and only after 10,000 miles. i mean it was literally flaking off from rust. idk if that could be covered under warranty? i mean the bolts were even smaller than they should have been and started to round off since it was so rusted.. anyways went to two muffler shops and they were like "we'd rather not touch that.. just to sketchy".. so idk what to do..

 

It must be the salt in the air where you live that has caused that problem.. My cat and bolts are rusty but the bolts were not so eroded that they couldn't be be removed, used again and removed.... I have had the car for 4 years and have 31000 miles on it.... When you are able to remove them you need to replace them with stainless steel bolts.

 

Go to another muffler shop and tell them you only want it for the track, that relieves them of responsibility. I believe it is technically a crime for them to knowingly remove the cats, but if they remove them, make a pipe, and put that cats back in they have done nothing wrong. I just got my axleback straightpipe for $50. He quoted me $60 for the downpipe when I come back. The $50 included a bit extra for doing it in 10 min so I could make it to work on time.

 

It, has made my car much too loud, I need another muffler or two.

 

we at least you know now first hand on how loud they are... since you're keeping the cat, you might just want to go with a slightly bigger diameter pipe (+.25"), resonator and muffler of choice.