Some of Ya'll are annoying lol! I've gone through 12 bottles of nitrous in 3 weeks since I first posted up the videos. The l15a7 accepts it like a champ! Boost could be even better! If you ever feel the power you will realize what is missing from the fit. Now, custom turbo is the only real option. I'm going to go broke from spending so much money on the juice. (35 a fill up) But seriously I can affirm. If you can afford the ~3000 to 4000 to go custom turbo, DO IT! Take a shit load of pictures and soon we will all be doing it. I'm sick of hearing boo hoo stories about how 16,000 + 4,000 almost equals an si. Just do it. You will have more fun than anyone in an si.

There are still some of us who have just as much fun in the garage with a 6 pack and a set of wrenches as we do driving. If she breaks, she breaks. Just another opportunity to have some fun in the garage.

 

I'd like to see a Fit get Overhauled by Chip Foose.

 

:facepalm: to this entire thread

 

From the Thunderbird and Cougar Club of America forums. Modifying the valve body to increase shift speed and quality. Cost: A couple of new gaskets. Lots of fun. These are the kinds of things I was hoping to do with the fit too. But instead we just bitch about rattles in the glove compartment. Why exacly do we call these cars tuners when all we tune is the radio...


...

...


STEP #6: Depending of the mileage on the vehicle you may want to clean the valve body out (this is highly recommended). Make a mental note of where all eight (8) check balls go before hand. Another option would be to take a Polaroid photo or make a drawing of where the check balls go to help you later. There is also a small screen in the corner of the valve body and a back-out valve next to the filter bore hole. To remove the check balls you can simply tip the valve body over into a clean bucket or a transmission pan. To remove the back-out valve, simply use your fingertips or a paper clip to lift it out. See the photo for details.
<!--[if !supportEmptyParas]--> <!--[endif]-->
<!--[if !vml]--><!--[endif]-->
Circled are the 8 checkball locations. Above the filter bore is the back out valve.
<!--[if !supportEmptyParas]--> <!--[endif]-->
<!--[if !supportEmptyParas]--> <!--[endif]-->
It is advisable to remove each check ball individually as it will help you to remember where they go later. Use a paper clip or small screwdriver to remove the check balls (Do not lose any of the check balls). You can leave the small square screen and back-out valve in, just make a note of them in case they fall out. Spray brake cleaner spray into the valve body maze and then tip the valve body over to release the old ATF. Re-install the check balls and back-out valve into their proper locations. Do not lose any of these parts.
<!--[if !supportEmptyParas]--> <!--[endif]-->
<!--[if !supportEmptyParas]--> <!--[endif]-->
ADVICE: If you are not familiar with the workings of the main control unit, DO NOT remove the valves and/or springs. It is not necessary to touch the internal valves or the manual shift valve. NOTE: If you are installing a new valve body (i.e. 1999 main control unit), you do not have to clean the valve body out or remove the check balls.
<!--[if !supportEmptyParas]--> <!--[endif]-->
STEP #7: YOU DO NOT DRILL INTO THE VALVE BODY ITSELF, so place it to the side for now. You may wish to cover it with a rag to prevent debris from entering the valve body. Follow the chart provided to mark the hole locations and hole sizes on the separator plate. Mark each hole with a magic marker that needs to be either created or enlarged. If you enlarge the wrong hole, you need to purchase a new separator plate, so be careful. Write the hole sizes down next to each numbered hole (see photo).
<!--[if !supportEmptyParas]--> <!--[endif]-->
<!--[if !vml]--><!--[endif]-->
The separator plate with the holes marked and numbered. IMPORTANT: Do not follow these hole sizes as they may vary per vehicle application. Refer to the chart provided for hole size information. Shown is a 1995 main control at the less than 300 HP setting.
<!--[if !supportEmptyParas]--> <!--[endif]-->
STEP #8: Replacement separator gaskets. You need these before you start, they are available through your Ford dealer.
<!--[if !supportEmptyParas]--> <!--[endif]-->
1994-1995 4R70W: Use, p.n. F5AZ-7D100-A. The original p.n. on the gasket may read, F5AP-7D100-A, the replacement is F5AZ-7D100-A. The second gasket required is, p.n. F2VY-7C155-A.
<!--[if !supportEmptyParas]--> <!--[endif]-->
1996-1997 4R70W: Use, p.n. XW7Z-7D100-AA. The second gasket required, is p.n. F7AZ-7C155-AA.
<!--[if !supportEmptyParas]--> <!--[endif]-->
STEP #9: Using a soft backstop to drill into, place the separator plate on a flat surface (i.e. a six gallon container empty water box or workbench). Hold the plate down and carefully drill the holes in numerical order. All drill bits are subject to breakage during use. To minimize personal injury, never apply pressure in any direction except directly in-line with the drill bit. Be sure to drill straight, if your drill is equipped with a level, use it to verify your angle of entry. NOTE: Wear safety glasses or goggles when drilling.
<!--[if !supportEmptyParas]--> <!--[endif]-->
<!--[if !vml]--><!--[endif]-->
Drilling the separator plate. Be sure to double check the hole and hole size before hand.
<!--[if !supportEmptyParas]--> <!--[endif]-->
<!--[if !supportEmptyParas]--> <!--[endif]-->
<!--[if !supportEmptyParas]--> <!--[endif]-->
For smaller holes in which you are enlarging to a bigger size (always refer to the chart) you can start with a smaller drill bit. For example, if you need to make a hole 0.081" (#46), you can start with 0.076" (#48) drill. Then make the hole to 0.081". ALWAYS DOUBLE CHECK EACH HOLE BEFORE YOU DRILL.
<!--[if !supportEmptyParas]--> <!--[endif]-->
STEP #10: After you drill each hole, carefully de-burr it with a file or honing stone. You may use the tip of another drill bit to remove the burr as well. Make sure the hole is round and not oval or oblong. Run you finger over the hole on both sides of the separator plate to be sure it's smooth. After you de-burr all the required holes, clean the separator plate with brake cleaner spray. Be sure to remove any filings or debris. Line up the gasket (7D100) over the separator plate and make sure all your holes match up.
<!--[if !supportEmptyParas]--> <!--[endif]-->
<!--[if !vml]--><!--[endif]-->
The separator plate and gasket together.
<!--[if !supportEmptyParas]--> <!--[endif]-->
<!--[if !supportEmptyParas]--> <!--[endif]-->
Be sure all the check balls are in their proper locations in the valve body before proceeding. Double check the small screen and back-out valve are also in the main control. NOTE: Carefully inspect the valve body maze for any debris (i.e. cotton, lint, paper towel, dirt, etc.).

<!--[if !supportEmptyParas]--> <!--[endif]-->
STEP #11: Install the new separator plate gasket (7D100) onto the valve body. Then install the separator plate over the gasket. Verify each hole to make sure none are blocked. Re-install the reinforcing plates in their proper locations. Remember to use the scribed marks you made when removing the plates, to help re-install them. They line up only one way, but the orientation of the smallest plate can be confusing (the indent or "Pac-Man" faces the outer edge of the main control unit). The plates flat side faces up, the side with the valley face downward or towards the separator plate.



...
...

Anyway I'm done ranting. Feels good to let out the dissapointment. The fit is just so much more fun to drive than the bird but nobody has blazed the path to modding nirvana for us yet.

 

That sucks, I was getting all excited for a minute.

What do you guys think about the possibility of a stroker kit? They make them for the b16 up to 1.8 and 2.0(I BELIEVE), and people have success with that. The only thing is, Im under the impression that the l15 already has a small bore and very long stroke so...could you really get that much more out of it??

But I agree, the aftermarket support is going to be super limited for a long time.

 

Seriously, just buy a Mustang GT if you want to go fast.

 

Point taken.. I dont think I would invest anything to make the Fit fast. Im just throwing it out there for the sake of the conversation

 

Fast =/= fun. Fast Fit = Fun. Fast Mustang = Midlife Crisis Mobile

For goodness sake I have a tbird I could mod to hell and back (and came very close to doing) but realized that the Fit is just so much more fun to be in.

 

I find it's more fun to drive a slow car fast, than a fast car slow, considering speed limits and what have you.

 

Ughhh. Not another "why would you mod the fit to go fast?" discussion.

 

Doesn't Power Enterprise in Japan have a Rotrex C15-based supercharger kit for the GE8 yet?

I guess this question is most addressed to 555sexydrive as he'd have the most probability of knowing.

The same folks did an S/C kit for the JDM GD3.

 

Yes it has been released, I have even mentioned it a few times on the boards. The tuning might also work as it is an add-on to the ECU. It is called their P-Map and looks somewhat like what the UniChip tuning solution is. It looks like it is pretty tunable, as much as a piggy-back solution can be. Not really different from say what Trust (Greddy) released with their line of tuning add-ons.

The biggest drawback of this solution is the cost, even more painful when a $1 only gets you like 85 of those lightweight silver colored disks called yen.

 

It's called a Lotus Elise , 189 bhp at 1984 pounds curb weight.

Of course, with minor options, it will cost as much as four Fit Sports. For another half of a Fit Sport, you can get the Eaton supercharged model at 218 bhp.

Then there's the Exige 260SC at 257 hp/2020 lbs...

 

As much as I am NOT a motor head, if you wanted a fast car the FIT should not have been your choice. Yes I agree there should be aftermarket support for the car however, the economy speaks miles to the makers of aftermarket parts. Spending trends also help dictate what they will and will not make. The market and economy right now is more likely to sway towards Looks Vs Power mods for the Fit. It is a fun/fashionable/trendy car, that appeals to all age groups and by the sales/wait times for them Honda has done it right again.

While I can appreciate the desire to mod a fit and beef it up, if I really wanted to go faster in a lighter car, I would go back to driving a CRX.

 

gbaby cracks me up on literally every thread....

aftermarket support sucks bottom line

with what you would spend to make the GE8 "FAST"

you could have saved up that 3-4K and bought yourself a Mazdaspeed 3 or something haha still have the praticality of a wagon, etc.

 

my first choice, test drove and all (a 10MS3 @ $22K) but it just so happen that I was in the market for a daily runner for business and not a "toy"... hence the Fit. LOL next time (maybe) *grin*

then again... any tweakhead will not stop there, be it a $15K or a $40K car... once he itch... he will tweak, that's fact

 

agreed....to each his own i guess...in my eyes 2-4K to make this little guy at max 20HP faster is just CRAZY

besides all the fit needs is to be slammed with super low offset wheels.....bmmmmmmmm

 

I loved the MazdaSpeed 3.. but I couldn't stomach the insurance premium Insurance was something like $1800 for 6 months Only a little less than the payment! Combine that with $100 more a month for the payment and less gas mileage... not as much go even if it is quicker

 

this a good or a bad thing?

 

its a good thing, I like to think that I sense your sarcasm before a lot of other people do, I think if they caught it as fast as me no one would get mad they would only just laugh along lol

did you ever sell your enkeis? and were u at the last jdmchicago meet, i see you post all the time on there too..