It's almost time for a front pad replacement and did a rotor check and noticed 1 faint groove on both outer rotors (inners are still smooth). After doing a ball point pen test, I found that the ink line is continous, meaning the groove not deep enough for resurfacing according to one school of thought atleast. According to the other school of thought, I should get them resurfaced anyway for optimal brake performance. I just don't know which way to go.

And due to the nature of drums being covered, I have no idea what's going back there lol so I have to trust the word of my dealer (which I automatically don't)

Oh and I have 36000 miles on them so pretty much right on schedule. 2mm front 3 mm back

 

Fine time for the Insight rear drum swap. Stay tuned to "Biggest Loser" for details.

 

I vote no.... upgrade... Had this combo on my CL-S (infamous for warping stock rotors) and never looked back. Bite was so much better than stock rotors/pads and they never warped again.

POWERSLOT - Faster Stops Made Easier
Part # 126.40021SL & 126.40021SR

w/ ebc brake pads
Brake Pads and Brake Rotors for Cars

 

Even if you don't change from OEM pads, use garnet sandpaper, followed by a Scotchbrite pad with brake cleaner to give the discs a good cleaning before fitting new pads. As the disc and pad slide past each other, there is actually a momentary bond between the two, which transfers a small amount of pad to the disc surface. If this transfer is not completely even, you can have hot spots, which cause pulsating braking, even if the disc itself is within spec. People often think they have warped discs, when this is the real problem.

When replacing pads, a good cleaning helps remove the old pad residue, and is especially important if you change pad material.

StopTech : Balanced Brake Upgrades

 

Do like Selden saiys. And google breaking-in new brakes". Rotor warping is near urban legend.

 

Light sanding can be done while rotors are still in place. Lift the front of the car, use jackstands, remove wheels and start car and put in gear. Discs will start turning, you can smooth with garnet paper or sanding stone. (note: you may need to stop opposite rotor with a clamp).

As for rear drums, just pull the drums off to inspect inside. It's easy.

 

You should resurface the rotors or replace them.
It's such a small price that you pay just one time at 36k miles in versus potentially having to redo the whole job again due to warping or a slight shudder or whatever. If you get the brake job done at shop, the job pretty much will include resurfacing.

Theoretically you need to hook up measuring equipment to measure the runout of each rotor to determine if you need to resurface, but that's just as much effort as doing the resurfacing job itself.

This is a similar situation as how the manual says your first oil change you don't need to change the filter. From a nitpickers perspective it's probably true you don't need to replace, but who really needs to save that $4 on a filter for the risk involved?

If you're worried about the resurfacing using up the rotor material, after the first brake job, get new rotors onthe 2nd brake job, as rotors are pretty inexpensive with mass manufacturing these days. The price differential between the cost for resurface and new rotors is not excessively high.
Example:
Centric Premium rotors at rockauto are only $28 each. This is a well regarded company and these rotors are used as the initial blanks for their fancy crossdrilled or slotted products for their brands: powerslot and stoptech


Similarly buy a premium set of brake pads. Again, if you are divide out the cost the next 36kmiles you will be using it, there's no point in saving just a few dollars for 36kmiles of subpar performance. Unless you are getting racing brakes, most brake pads do not require a special brake in procedure, just drive gently for the first tank of gas or so and avoid prolonged hard braking. Do do a quick search on the pads you do choose to confirm.

 

i say yes due to the fact that its could warp,with the rotors warp ur going to have a brake pulsation so it would be a good idea to resuface the rotor

 

There is no question here. Rotors always have to be turned (resurfaced) when installing new brake pads.

(Certified Mechanic).

 

There are a few hotly debated issues in the car world and brake rotor service is right up there.

And, as those who have hung around this forum for a while know - we all enjoy a heated debate_

So here we go.

It's just not as easy as saying every time you change the pads.

mtunofun is not seeing a performance problem but is concerned on the proper care that should be given to a most important component of any vehicle - gettin it to stop where you want it to.

My experience has told me to turn rotors only if they contribute to a braking issue and can be measured to be out of spec. I have also learned [the hard way] that new rotors should be checked for true and minimally turned if needed - they just might not have been manufactured up to spec. And, if at all possible, turn them on the vehicle.

Rotor issues can be solved by other means. A good mechanic will know this. Many issues result from improper brake-in of new brake parts, the sitting of the vehicle without use for a period of time, binding calipers - the list goes on.

Here's a nice unbiased point of view to help get things started: Understanding Brake Rotor Service

K_C_

 

The automotive technology literature unboubtely advices to have the rotors machined every time the new break pads are installed. This is not an issue of debate among the experts in the field. (Sure there are common people who wonder, but they are the ones installing incorrect size tires and use oil that they "feel" is better suited.

The reason for surfacing the rotors is to even out the surfaces to let them rub in together as evenly and with as much contact area as possible. This is done with the goal of longest service life as well as to insure even wear and reduce noise.

If you don't machine the rotors, it's like moving an iron against the asphalt, vs the ironing board.

 

I've slapped new pads on old rotors without issue before. The only time I replace a rotor is when it's worn or is causing vibration.

My Buick, which is notorious for warping rotors, is on the second set of pads with the current rotors. They haven't been resurfaced, just lightly sanded to rough up the surface.

 

Do not resurface them. Just deglaze them with a sanding disk. I worked at an Acura dealer and that's what they did (unless you are getting pulsating or have grooves worn into them). The honda certified mechanics did it right on the car. No, they are not the shady "I took the class you see in the infomercial" type of mechanics either.

Cheers!

 

They are a proponent of their own industry. The oil industry undoubtedly advices to change your engind oil every 3,000 miles.