rotors / pads
#1
rotors / pads
okay. so what kind of rotors are you guys all using? i was doing a search, and most people just upgrade their pads. so yeah.... what kind of rotors is everyone using?
i will probably end up using base rsx hawk hps front pads because they're streetable and not that aggressive. help!!!
i will probably end up using base rsx hawk hps front pads because they're streetable and not that aggressive. help!!!
#2
okay. so what kind of rotors are you guys all using? i was doing a search, and most people just upgrade their pads. so yeah.... what kind of rotors is everyone using?
i will probably end up using base rsx hawk hps front pads because they're streetable and not that aggressive. help!!!
i will probably end up using base rsx hawk hps front pads because they're streetable and not that aggressive. help!!!
The stock rotors are more than capable and useable. The Hawk HPS-418 pads are as good as you'll need based on our street and track driving.
#3
I'm looking at Stoptech slotted rotors, looking for someone local for it but King Motorsports has it:
http://www.kingmotorsports.com/category.aspx?cat=3
http://www.kingmotorsports.com/category.aspx?cat=3
#5
I have been thinking about this and doing a rear brake conversion but so far from what I can find a rear brake conversion would be around 2 grand or have I just not looked hard enough.
#6
Does AJ-R have their T1R rear disc brake conversion kit out yet? I remember there was a group buy thread for a pre-order for the T1R rear disc conversion, but anyways on their site it lists for $895 usd:
A&J Racing :: Suspension & Brakes :: Fit/Jazz (GD3/4) :: T1R Rear Disc Brake conversion - Honda Fit 07 & up GD-3
A&J Racing :: Suspension & Brakes :: Fit/Jazz (GD3/4) :: T1R Rear Disc Brake conversion - Honda Fit 07 & up GD-3
#8
The discs pull the rear end down riicely so you don't get the tipping to the front. That is great assist in opposing weight transfer to the front and making apex much easier to control. Naturally that helps exit speed improve very much. The cost is about $750.
#9
They will do a much better job with better pads aka Hawk HPS-418.
#10
A&J has a good disc brake conversion that we have installed with ease. Photos are on the disc brake conversion post.
The discs pull the rear end down riicely so you don't get the tipping to the front. That is great assist in opposing weight transfer to the front and making apex much easier to control. Naturally that helps exit speed improve very much. The cost is about $750.
The discs pull the rear end down riicely so you don't get the tipping to the front. That is great assist in opposing weight transfer to the front and making apex much easier to control. Naturally that helps exit speed improve very much. The cost is about $750.
If I were going to do a rear end conversion would you suggest upgrading the front pads and rotors or just sticking with stock. It would be awhile before I did this. Thinking of doing it in a year or two once I get a supercharger.
#11
SS racing in SCCA has shown for many years that oem rotors, with exception of GM, have proven more than adequate. The only thing needed was upgrading pads. Upgraded pads do shorten stopping distances by about 10 ft.
PS incidently. thats exactly what I've done on all 3 of my cars that are tracked. And all 3 plus several prior ones have done fine.
PPS if you want to see what happens go to "hyundai sundae at vir" on you tube.
Good luck.
#13
I'd leave the rotors alone and upgrade pads now. The rear discs are up to you. Doesn't have anything to do with supercharger; once front pads are uopgraded there's nothing more really to do.
SS racing in SCCA has shown for many years that oem rotors, with exception of GM, have proven more than adequate. The only thing needed was upgrading pads. Upgraded pads do shorten stopping distances by about 10 ft.
PS incidently. thats exactly what I've done on all 3 of my cars that are tracked. And all 3 plus several prior ones have done fine.
PPS if you want to see what happens go to "hyundai sundae at vir" on you tube.
Good luck.
SS racing in SCCA has shown for many years that oem rotors, with exception of GM, have proven more than adequate. The only thing needed was upgrading pads. Upgraded pads do shorten stopping distances by about 10 ft.
PS incidently. thats exactly what I've done on all 3 of my cars that are tracked. And all 3 plus several prior ones have done fine.
PPS if you want to see what happens go to "hyundai sundae at vir" on you tube.
Good luck.
Thanks for all the info
#14
If you want to keep brake dust down get some Akebono brake pads. Also the stock rotors are pretty good already IMO. I really like Red STuff pads but they go thru rotors pretty fast. And the Akebonos' don't have a bedding in period.
#15
Am I the only one who isn't happy with the stock rotors? One fast run down into Anza Borrego at about 7,000 miles, and they were warped. I wasn't even braking hard enough to engage the ABS. I expected better than that.....
#16
there is no way you "warped" your rotors. this is such a common misconception. What you have is uneven brake pad deposits. It is VERY hard even on track to physically warp your rotors. Your never going to do this on the street. I know dealerships and such will tell you you have warped rotors but thats just a easy way of explaining whats wrong. If you bed your pads properly and let them cool down properly you shouldnt have a problem. If your warping your rotors now... your going to do the same thing on any fancy rotor that you buy. If you want to waste your money by all means.
Many honda challenge racers use autozone blank rotors, so trust me you dont need anything else but them. Slotted and drilled rotors do nothing but shorten pad life and are old technology for the old compound pads that would produce a "gas" layer when hot.
Many honda challenge racers use autozone blank rotors, so trust me you dont need anything else but them. Slotted and drilled rotors do nothing but shorten pad life and are old technology for the old compound pads that would produce a "gas" layer when hot.
#17
#19
well it depends on what pads they are and what you plan on doing with them, For your avg street pad it goes something like this...
install them and either wait till a low traffic time in your area or install them when youll be done in low traffic time.
Go out and run up to 45mph then stop to 5mph not STOMPing on the pedal but not light ether just pretty firm. do this 4-5 times
Do the same procedure at about 60mph down to 5mph 4-5 times
It is VERY important NOT to come to a complete stop ever during this process, this is the time most deposits are formed.
Come to a stop in your drive way or parking spot with the ebrake. you can slow down around the town or in your driveway with the pedal normally just when you come to a stop use the ebrake.
If you have a higher performance pad you just make the stops from a higher and higher speed thats the only real difference. This method has worked well for me in the past. I didnt do this once and with in a month ineeded new rotors.
Oem pads you can just drive around normally and try not to stop full with the pedal and dont stop excessively for awhile. Think breaking in a clutch or motor but brakes, just go easy on them.
EDIT: Here is the link i was looking for
StopTech : Balanced Brake Upgrades
install them and either wait till a low traffic time in your area or install them when youll be done in low traffic time.
Go out and run up to 45mph then stop to 5mph not STOMPing on the pedal but not light ether just pretty firm. do this 4-5 times
Do the same procedure at about 60mph down to 5mph 4-5 times
It is VERY important NOT to come to a complete stop ever during this process, this is the time most deposits are formed.
Come to a stop in your drive way or parking spot with the ebrake. you can slow down around the town or in your driveway with the pedal normally just when you come to a stop use the ebrake.
If you have a higher performance pad you just make the stops from a higher and higher speed thats the only real difference. This method has worked well for me in the past. I didnt do this once and with in a month ineeded new rotors.
Oem pads you can just drive around normally and try not to stop full with the pedal and dont stop excessively for awhile. Think breaking in a clutch or motor but brakes, just go easy on them.
EDIT: Here is the link i was looking for
StopTech : Balanced Brake Upgrades
Last edited by SHG_Mike; 06-19-2008 at 11:26 PM.
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