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Raise Redline. A really bad idea?

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  #61  
Old 11-18-2010, 02:53 AM
Lyon[Nightroad]'s Avatar
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Also, Since you guys are so caught up on power please view the example below:



If it is even possible to raise the redline this is what we might expect to see. No increase in peak power. BUT! observe the curve in a WOT 2nd gear pull. Because you would begin 2nd gear in a higher rpm band you would stay in the power rather than dropping back down into the 'dead zone' between 4500 and 5000 rpms, resulting in an increase in the mean horsepower of your second, third, and fourh gear pull even though there was no increase in peak power.

However, please note that drivetrain loss tends to increase with rpms esspecially with an AT. The benefit is unlikely to be as significant for whp as bhp depending on your transmission.


Anyway, these are the things I would like to have discussed.
 

Last edited by Lyon[Nightroad]; 11-18-2010 at 03:16 AM.
  #62  
Old 11-18-2010, 03:26 AM
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damn..I tried to offset the neg rep for you Lyon but apparently I have to spread more rep around first...BAH!
 
  #63  
Old 11-18-2010, 03:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Lyon[Nightroad]
I can see clearly that problem is that we take pride in different things. I take no pride in purchasing an aftermarket part that requires no thought or risk in installation. You do, which is great. That will give the aftermarket some faith in the idea that making parts for the fit will be profitable for them and perhaps they will be driven to create parts that simply can't be completed DIY. But I take pride in taking risks, coming up with unique ideas and solutions, and overcoming challenges in design. I would rather make a DIY intake that makes 1hp than buy an intake from a manufacturer that makes 5hp. This is good too because without risk takers and DIYs we would all just be clones purchasing volk rims, buddy club coilovers, PRM intakes, hks exhausts, etc. So I understand that you will probably never see the value in what I strive to do, but please understand that I will never have respect for what you do either unless you actually have to put that brain of yours to work for something other than buying products that have already been tested for you.

Built>Bought
1.) Wheels do require thought. You have to ask yourself:
-What weight do I want?
-What size tires do I want to run?
-What offset?
-What diameter?
-How much brake clearance do I need? (which goes together with offset but also takes spoke design into consideration)

2.) Built>Bought

So someone who buys quality parts, installs everyone himself, does his own tune, etc.

He didn't build his car? Yeah, right.

3.) 5 speed swap v. stock 5 speed
-I don't think there's anything wrong with a 5 speed swap. A friend of mine 5 speed swapped his galant because they were only auto and he loves the car. It used all OEM parts from a 3g Eclipse. I know it will be just as reliable as OEM.

Do I respect that car/owner? I love that car, and the owner is a great dude.

4.) Everyone would have Volks, Buddy Club, PRM, HKS?

NO.

Everyone has preferences on brands they use.

People who don't see the benefit in quality wheels buy Rotas, Konigs, Drags, etc.
People who see the benefit but don't want to spend a lot of cash buy Enkeis, Kosei's, Buddy Clubs, 949racing 6ul's
People who are willing to spend will buy Volks, Works, BBS, SSR, etc.

You mention Buddy Club coil-overs. I'd rather have a set-up from Tein/Cusco/J's whatever.

PRM intake. If I'm going for NA power, I'm going for ITB's. I'm willing to save the cash to do it right (that is my opinion, not a point I'd like to argue).

HKS exhaust.....Alright that'd be cool, but some will want fart cans, others will want T1R VIP, etc. Me. I'd get a J's 50rr.

If I had a Fit (I don't, I joined to research the Fit for my grandparents, but I've always liked the Fit...so I've done a fair amount of research)

I'd go for a GD3.

K24/20 swap. NA build in the range of 340 whp.
Gut it.
Bracing.
JDM front with all the J's aero
15x8 TE37's up front with 225 or 235
15x7 TE37's round back with 205 or 215
custom exhaust
Custom setup Pro-C's or some outrageous external reservoir set-up
Spoon BBK up front (Have to be a bit of a fanboi)
Keep the drums in back
2 Bride Zeta III
Takata Harness
Full Cage


(If money was no object)
 

Last edited by Slowbros; 11-18-2010 at 03:59 AM.
  #64  
Old 11-18-2010, 03:56 AM
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Good stuff. New page, maybe we can get you a fresh start...

This sort of thing could help in eventually developing a No-Lift-To-Shift, or adjustable rev-limiter activated/deactivated using the clutch switch and speed sensor..

As well it would be a seemingly similar process for a Two step launch system, and the basic underpinnings of an anti-lag system.

I am trying to see if I can use a a fuel pressure solenoid or an EGR solenoid with an AEM FIC to provide gear-based boost control along with maybe a push button "scramble" (overboost) feature like I can already do with my ECMLink software in my Plymouth.



Edit: Maybe I spoke too soon?

Among other questions that post brings up what is wrong with Rotas? Before I got my Cragar's I was looking at some 15x8 Rotas to go with my bias ply hoosiers..

Rota Slipstreams are very light and very popular in the Auto-X and Drag crowds.

Bolting on some wheels, an intake or exhaust isn't really "building" IMHO, A trans swap is certainly a big step in the right direction though!

Anyone who takes the time to learn and tune their own car earns loads of respect in my book.
 

Last edited by DiamondStarMonsters; 11-18-2010 at 04:11 AM.
  #65  
Old 11-18-2010, 04:12 AM
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Originally Posted by DiamondStarMonsters
Good stuff. New page, maybe we can get you a fresh start...

This sort of thing could help in eventually developing a No-Lift-To-Shift, or adjustable rev-limiter activated/deactivated using the clutch switch and speed sensor..

As well it would be a seemingly similar process for a Two step launch system, and the basic underpinnings of an anti-lag system.

I am trying to see if I can use a a fuel pressure solenoid or an EGR solenoid with an AEM FIC to provide gear-based boost control along with maybe a push button "scramble" (overboost) feature like I can already do with my ECMLink software in my Plymouth.



Edit: Maybe I spoke too soon?

Among other questions that post brings up what is wrong with Rotas?

Rota Slipstreams are very light and very popular in the Auto-X and Drag crowds.

Bolting on some wheels, an intake or exhaust isn't really "building" IMHO, A trans swap is certainly a big step in the right direction though!

Anyone who takes the time to learn and tune their own car earns loads of respect in my book.
I don't want to get into the Rota debate right now. PM me if you'd like my views on that

I agree that bolting on an exhaust/wheels/intake is far from building.

I mean beyond that (idk what to use as an example...its 3 am gimme a break haha)

and there we go
 
  #66  
Old 11-18-2010, 04:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Slowbros
I don't want to get into the Rota debate right now. PM me if you'd like my views on that

I agree that bolting on an exhaust/wheels/intake is far from building.

I mean beyond that (idk what to use as an example...its 3 am gimme a break haha)

and there we go

Eh, I think we've all had enough debate in here lol

To each their own on wheels!

With that said, I need sleep.
 
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