I just pulled the trigger on the P2R downpipe- I'll let you guys know how it goes- Mark W.

 

Ok- threw this on last night. Fits like a champ. It gets rid of the second "under-floor" cat. Doesn't really change the sound of the car for the louder, which is exactly what I wanted. Honestly, if I didn't know it was on there (got the scars to prove it ), I would tell you it was still stock, which is perfect.

Only did a quick run around the block (started at 10:30, done by 11), and there's no rattles or ricey sound. There's maybe a couple extra pony power- I definitely noticed a little bit of a butt dyno gain. Note: I've built race and hot street cars for over a decade, so my butt dyno is pretty darn good. I'd say between this and the K&N intake I put on yesterday, 4-7 WHP, and 3-5 ft.-lbs. of torque. A little extra power in the 2,500-3,500 RPM range (driving range), and a little more pop up top.

Overall, probably not worth $245 unless you really want an extra pony or two. It's a quality looking piece. I'll add more after a few more weeks- Mark W.

 

any cel at all?

 

I put in a mechanical O2 sim. Quick, easy solution I've run too many catless cars to deal with CEL's.
They're MAD easy to make-
Buy a pair of 18mm spark plug non-foulers (in the Help! section of Autozones, etc.), drill out one with a 1/2" drill bit, and thread the un-drilled one into the bung on the pipe, then thread the secondary (downstream) O2 sensor into the drilled-out non-fouler, and thread that into the un-drilled one. Bang- done
Also, use a set of pliers/vise grips or a vise to hold the non-fouler when drilling it- they get HOT
Never had an issue with CEL's with these. In my shop, we have an entire drawer full of these suckers.

Also, in the GE, there's actually plenty of room for the mechanical sim, so rock it Mark W.

 

I'm doing a custom direct replacement/bolt-on catback with high flow cat-converter... should be done in a week or two

 

With the placement of the secondary 02 sensor before the actual secondary cat in stock setup, replacing the secondary cat with a straight pipe means you don't need to run anything special to trick the ECU. I've been running the J's downpipe for quite some time now and don't have anything special done to trick the ECU.

 

my setup/plan would be to still keep db levels to a minimum... louder but not loud. this is also the reason why I picked up the tanabe touring medalion to begin with as I know I would be opening the exhaust system a bit more down the road. it's either I keep the stock cat-converter and toss the resonator out... or do away with the restrictive stock cat-converter and opt for a high flowing one and see if a resonator is still needed or not... I'm hoping the touring medalion would do good without resonator

 

555, I kinda figured I didn't need to. I just have a ton of the O2 sims, and figured the 2 extra seconds it takes me to throw one in vs. the 10 minutes to put the car back in the air if I got a CEL was worth it

Evilone- this would be a good way to keep the dB levels down. Getting rid of resonators often gives (shocker) a nasty resonance at certain RPM/load levels, especially in cars with crap sound deadening like the Fit.

As for price, I'm certain you could have a shop get a cut/splice job to cut out the factory cat and weld in straight pipe in its place for a lot less $$. I always like to go the pre-fab route so I know what I can recommend to people- I can't recommend the guy in your local shop, though Mark W.

 

been brainstorming on some ideas lately for the GE (custom parts/bolt-on). The exhaust system, for one, will be done in-house and in spec/s.

It will also be a direct bolt-on replacement type. If it goes well, we might offer it in different custom configurations (either high flow cat-on/off or high flow resonator-on/off or in any combo) and to keep cost pretty low without cutting corners on craftsmanship and materials, it will be offered as made-to-order... well that's the plan.