Broken wheel stud
#1
Broken wheel stud
I was attempting to lower my car this weekend and unfortunately did not get very far. We were removing my left wheel when the last lug nut wouldn't come off. I should have realized something was wrong when it wouldn't budge, even with a cheater pipe. After much force, the last wheel stud snapped in half. Before you tell me how much of an idiot I am to break a wheel stud, please help me out.
-Could this possibly be covered under warranty? I have aftermarket wheels on, could this void it?
-Can I drive on 3 wheel studs safely as long as I don't get on the freeway? Most likely I will have to drive on it for a few days for work until I can get it to a dealership.
-How much would a dealer charge vs. a shop?
-What size stud do I need?
In addition, I have to get another lug nut, too.
-Could this possibly be covered under warranty? I have aftermarket wheels on, could this void it?
-Can I drive on 3 wheel studs safely as long as I don't get on the freeway? Most likely I will have to drive on it for a few days for work until I can get it to a dealership.
-How much would a dealer charge vs. a shop?
-What size stud do I need?
In addition, I have to get another lug nut, too.
#2
Always coat the studs w/ copper anti-seize and this won't happen again. The stud will need to be pressed out. Call the Stealer/dealer and see what he can do. But if there going to charge you'd be better off going to a wheel shop possibly?
#3
A tire shop should charge you about 1/2-1 hour's worth of labor to replace the wheel stud. I had a local place replace two of the Ridgeline's studs. We drove on the 4 studs for about 3 days with no issues but the ridge has 5 studs, not 4.
Call your local dealer and see if they have any in stock, then find 2 hours in your schedule ASAP to get the stud replaced.
Did you put the aftermarket wheels on or was it the dealer? either way, it seems like they were on wayyy too tight. hopefully there isn't any damage to the rotor from so much pressure (warping) if the dealer installed the wheels, it should be covered under their install warranty, if not, don't expect Honda to pick up the tab as it was a bad install that caused the issue, likely not a failed part.
~SB
Call your local dealer and see if they have any in stock, then find 2 hours in your schedule ASAP to get the stud replaced.
Did you put the aftermarket wheels on or was it the dealer? either way, it seems like they were on wayyy too tight. hopefully there isn't any damage to the rotor from so much pressure (warping) if the dealer installed the wheels, it should be covered under their install warranty, if not, don't expect Honda to pick up the tab as it was a bad install that caused the issue, likely not a failed part.
~SB
#4
I bet someone used an impact wrench when the wheels were put on last time. Possibly cross-threaded or definitely overtightened. Not a warranty item unless you can prove that it was done by the dealer.
You could drive a short distance to a shop but I don't think you should push that to a few days. Keep speeds low. If it were me I'd get a new stud and replace it myself without rolling with only 3 studs (but that's just me).
Edit to add: Is that even a stock lug nut? It looks like a lock.
You could drive a short distance to a shop but I don't think you should push that to a few days. Keep speeds low. If it were me I'd get a new stud and replace it myself without rolling with only 3 studs (but that's just me).
Edit to add: Is that even a stock lug nut? It looks like a lock.
Last edited by Virtual; 04-09-2011 at 09:05 PM.
#5
From what I can see, it is a locknut, I can see "splines."
I snapped a bolt on my Mirage and ended up on three bolts for a short time. I was just tightening it and just as I was about to put some "force," into turning it... it snapped. Thinking about it now, I wonder if whoever rebuilt the car (it was salvaged after being wrecked in an accident), kept the original bolts. They could've been fatigued or even cracked by the accident.
I snapped a bolt on my Mirage and ended up on three bolts for a short time. I was just tightening it and just as I was about to put some "force," into turning it... it snapped. Thinking about it now, I wonder if whoever rebuilt the car (it was salvaged after being wrecked in an accident), kept the original bolts. They could've been fatigued or even cracked by the accident.
#8
Serious bummer.......I'd be right in the face of whoever put the nut on that tight. They are supposed to be tightened to 80 ft-lb torque.
Whoever did something that stupid with an impact wrench owes you the total cost.
geo
Whoever did something that stupid with an impact wrench owes you the total cost.
geo
#9
I replaced broken wheel stud on my two previous cars:
- 1969 Dodge Dart, real easy, broken stud on rear wheel with drum brake. Take off drum and tap out the broken stud. Replace with new one and draw it in with wheel nut.
- 2002 Infiniti G20, pain in the butt, broken stud on front wheel with disc brake. Have to take off calipers, and space was tight with dust shield at the back. Barely had enough room to tap out the old stud.
- 1969 Dodge Dart, real easy, broken stud on rear wheel with drum brake. Take off drum and tap out the broken stud. Replace with new one and draw it in with wheel nut.
- 2002 Infiniti G20, pain in the butt, broken stud on front wheel with disc brake. Have to take off calipers, and space was tight with dust shield at the back. Barely had enough room to tap out the old stud.
#10
definitely recommend bringing it to a shop to get it pressed out. if you are a shadetree w/ little to no $$$ on tap...then I guess u you could bang it out w/ a mallot. although I wouldn't recommend it. i've done this on a few of my past car...a few times on one side. I ended up having to replace the wheel bearing later on down the road because of all that pounding.
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