What??? Hondata Flashpro....read on
No its in pretty much all the newer cars like 2005ish and up. my cousins fg2 did it. the fit does it. Rev up to like 4k and take your foot off the gas entirely. The engine will 'hang' for a brief moment before the revs drop. its not a massive thing. If you dont know much about cars, or havent really driven a cable throttle m/t before you wouldnt notice. but its annoying when you know how to drive standard and want the revs to drop NOW lol. Im suprised you havent though B&D 

I took a guy for a ride on night and we were running down the road with a couple of other cars whose drivers wanted to see whet my Fit would do... I have the Hondata reflash that eliminates some of the hang but when I was shifting my passenger thought I was shifting without using the clutch or lifting off of the throttle because the revs weren't dropping when I shifted... The heavy flywheel keeps the revs from dropping as well as the DBW.
I didn't know the reflash could help eliminate the hang. A lighter flywheel should help too.
I thought for sure the main culprit was the Clutch Delay Valve as mentioned in this thread ---> https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...lay-valve.html
Thinking about adding that to my suspension mods list, cause even though for the most part I'm used to it, it still annoying.
I thought for sure the main culprit was the Clutch Delay Valve as mentioned in this thread ---> https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...lay-valve.html
Thinking about adding that to my suspension mods list, cause even though for the most part I'm used to it, it still annoying.
Hey gang, I've PM'd Henry of Race Craft Academy to shed more light on the ECU services they provide. Here is a quote from last year:
We have successfully cracked and re-flashed the stock ecu.
All parameters ca be modified including e-throttle, timing, i-vtec points, rev-cut, fueling, radiator fan control, etc
a sample :YouTube - 8000rpm Honda FIT 1.5 RS
We are also successfully racing this ecu.
All parameters ca be modified including e-throttle, timing, i-vtec points, rev-cut, fueling, radiator fan control, etc
a sample :YouTube - 8000rpm Honda FIT 1.5 RS
We are also successfully racing this ecu.
Is it just me or did that vid look like it only got to 7500ish rpm? And is that really safe for the engine in stock form?
Henry T. is an awesome guy. Easy to talk to and randomly hits you with a "Hi how are you today..." on FB chat. Yes he will and can reflash your ecu. If I remember correctly, he did mention that he has been doing it for the UK folks, he has a guy in the UK that can handle the "tweaks" locally if needed be.
Thank you for breaking it down in easy to understand examples. I feel that I have a good grasp on the difference between a "reflash" and "flashable ECU" but maybe I'm not articulating this clearly.
This conversation changed directions rather abruptly when adolan21 asked how "to solve the rev hang and maybe boost the red line up a bit for fun" and Mr.Dan asked for more info.
A flashable ECU would not be necessary to increase the redline...though I'm not sure what issue is being referred to as far as "rev hang."
As far as the scenario I outlined above...maybe it wouldn't even be necessary to get the chip flashed...just use a piggy back controller.
DSM, do you know of a way to properly tune the car and not have to worry about a conversion harness for the dash controls? A standalone would be a nightmare for wiring (I don't want to use custom gauges).
This conversation changed directions rather abruptly when adolan21 asked how "to solve the rev hang and maybe boost the red line up a bit for fun" and Mr.Dan asked for more info.
A flashable ECU would not be necessary to increase the redline...though I'm not sure what issue is being referred to as far as "rev hang."
As far as the scenario I outlined above...maybe it wouldn't even be necessary to get the chip flashed...just use a piggy back controller.
DSM, do you know of a way to properly tune the car and not have to worry about a conversion harness for the dash controls? A standalone would be a nightmare for wiring (I don't want to use custom gauges).

As you can see torque plummets after it peaks around 5000rpm, and because horsepower is torque over time it also tanks pretty much just after it peaks. So without a couple grand in VE mods, or a medium to large turbo there is really no point in raising redline as you would be better of short shifting a bit anyways.
Regarding your second question, yes a piggback would be the best option for 99% of Fit owners looking to do some real modification and then being able to calibrate for it.
An end user flashable ECU is going to be the only way you will get to keep your stock dash controls without having to go the route Bi$imoto did in wiring up the AEM EMS to work with the CRZ's computer.
Next to nobody here should need a Standalone for what they are doing with their Fits.
For example... I am using a Standalone for the compound turbo setup, but for a single I had no issues using the FIC.
Regarding your second question, yes a piggback would be the best option for 99% of Fit owners looking to do some real modification and then being able to calibrate for it.
An end user flashable ECU is going to be the only way you will get to keep your stock dash controls without having to go the route Bi$imoto did in wiring up the AEM EMS to work with the CRZ's computer.
Henry sounded like there were two cams available for the GE's SOHC...apparently a DIC that would work with his flashed ECU settings and a much more aggressive profile that would require tuning.
SRI + WR header/DIY axle back + more aggressive cam + tune = fun
SRI + WR header/DIY axle back + more aggressive cam + tune = fun
Yes the FIC is a piggy back. it basically intercepts and alters various sensor signals while letting the ECU retain control of everything else.
If you are going to cam it and raise the redline. Go big the first time and have them tune accordingly. And/Or get a FIC or equivalent to tweak the reflash they send you for when you mod in the future..
ask and u shall recieve! these are things to make the L series go bump in the night!
Level 2.4, LEA1 Turbo Street/Race, vtec - $449.00 : Bisimoto Engineering, Where Efficiency Meets Technological Perfection
http://bisimoto.com/store/index.php?...roducts_id=440
L15, L15A, L13, LEA1 Sleeving - $1,181.00 : Bisimoto Engineering, Where Efficiency Meets Technological Perfection
PORTFLOW STANDARD HONDA HEADWORK, L15A, LEA1 - $849.00 : Bisimoto Engineering, Where Efficiency Meets Technological Perfection
Level 2.4, LEA1 Turbo Street/Race, vtec - $449.00 : Bisimoto Engineering, Where Efficiency Meets Technological Perfection
http://bisimoto.com/store/index.php?...roducts_id=440
L15, L15A, L13, LEA1 Sleeving - $1,181.00 : Bisimoto Engineering, Where Efficiency Meets Technological Perfection
PORTFLOW STANDARD HONDA HEADWORK, L15A, LEA1 - $849.00 : Bisimoto Engineering, Where Efficiency Meets Technological Perfection
well he has 2 cams out for the l series, he is a wiz at na so maybe just a simple call and he can help out, but this one is "emmissions friendly", i kno they say turbo but he would know what is needed for a na cam
Level 1.2, LEA1 Turbo Street/Race, vtec - $449.00 : Bisimoto Engineering, Where Efficiency Meets Technological Perfection
LOL...do you work for Bisimoto?
Getting an NA cam would take a group buy of at least 10 people...then there's all the problem of dyno testing to prove the gains, people backing out, etc. I'm not interested in trying to organize a group buy right now. If and when the time is right for a NA cam...I know someone (a major industry player) much better than Bisimoto to make the cam. Trust me. At this time, however, tuning comes first...without tuning there's no point in a cam.
Getting an NA cam would take a group buy of at least 10 people...then there's all the problem of dyno testing to prove the gains, people backing out, etc. I'm not interested in trying to organize a group buy right now. If and when the time is right for a NA cam...I know someone (a major industry player) much better than Bisimoto to make the cam. Trust me. At this time, however, tuning comes first...without tuning there's no point in a cam.
Christmas is coming up. What do you think guys? Any serious interest? If your first question is, "How much is this going to cost?" then you're probably not very serious.
But, here's what I figure in cost:
1. Used GE Fit manual ECU - $100-200
2. Send the used ECU to Henry at RCA to flash - ?$400-700?
3. Get a group buy for a cam - $1000 each
I don't know what the gains would be...Spoon used a GE8 cam in their CRZ and locked it on the large lobe and got a major increase in low end TQ and a reasonable bump in top end HP - 145 bhp I believe. (There is no mention whether the low end TQ increase is also coming from tuning of the IMA. Here is the thread on CRZforum discussing this. http://www.crzforum.com/forum/afterm...-pan-cr-z.html). A more aggressive profile than the GE8 cam would likely yield even greater gains. We would have to decide whether we wanted a drop in cam (not requiring a valve spring upgrade)...or get a more aggressive profile (and also a valve spring upgrade).
I am also trying to find more info on the cam Henry was talking about...this would probably be alot cheaper. I googled but I only found a cam for the GD fit.
Last edited by blackndecker; Oct 11, 2011 at 01:52 PM.



