https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/gene...it-kayaks.html

I see there has been some discussion about Inno brand racks. Is there any other affordable roof racks that's safe for 17" sea kayak (strong clamps and wide bar spread) and can easily be removed when not hauling a boat? (I don't want to hurt mpgs)

I'm using foam blocks on the roof of my Prelude and strapping through the doors. I don't want to do the same on my new Fit because of the antenna on the center line, the supposedly weaker roof panels, and just scuffing the paint on a week old car when running straps through the doors. Thanks!

 

I bought an '09 Fit Sport for my son with Thule racks. Just a word of caution: I'm not sure what the previous owner carried on them, or if he just cranked them down too tightly, but there are dimples in the roof edges at each rack mount.


https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/pict...pictureid=5538

 

My signature has a pic of my old setup. 11' 'yak on a Yakima rack with foam bar guards and bow/stern straps.

 

I'm the one who has posted about my Inno rack, and I'm still happy with it. But people with Thule and Yakima appear to be happy with theirs too. I'm not aware of any other major brands.

 

So Thule might dent the roof? or is that true for all brands if they are too tight? Does one brand or model come off more easily? I don't want to keep them on permanently, nor do I want them to fly off when passing a truck... Sorry for all the questions, my last roof rack was back in my high school surfing days, which went on a car with gutters and it never had to hold a huge hand built sea kayak.

 

Noticed these on eBay for about $250 shipped: Rhino Rack

No personal experience but everything I have read seems to point to this being a good brand/rack. And at that price....you are saving over $150 vs a THULE or Yakima aero setup.

 

I Have Yakima towers/ bars on my Fit. No issues in thousands of miles hauling 2 canoes at 85lbs total weight. IF you mark the inside of your door edge where clips rest ,every time you detach the rack,you can replace it at the same exact spot where is was originally adjusted. I used electrial tape the length of the clips to mark the location. My Yakima has been on 4 different cars and only thing that needs changed are the clips that adapt to your car's roof angles. I haul 2 canoes ,one 16' long and the other 14' long. Boats of length should have bow and stern lines to prevent crosswind whip of the boat and strap loosening at speed. If properly adjusted {must know how to read manufacturers directions} you shouldn't have puckered roofs with any rack system. Over tightening will cause roof to pucker and allow the rack to loosen and may detach at speed. Yakima suggests only tight enough to very slightly compress the silicone rubber cushions on the bottom of the towers. The cushion allow for car flex,weight shock when hitting bumps,like small shock absorbers. Over tightening causes direct contact to the metal and cause roof buckling.

As I can see from Phrancis photos he was a "dangerous" type kayak hauler. I hope none of you here ever follow his example. The foam blocks,and straps through the car are very dangerous,and will cause highway carnage,loss of boat,and possible injury to anyone following him.{Think 65lb kayak being launched through your windshield at 65mph} If he can afford a sea kayak,he should afford a good rack system to haul it. Lack of bow and stern lines on a long boat are boat with poor support is a very dangerous way to haul boats even with a good rack system. I have 30+ years of hauling kayaks,and canoes so I have a good understanding of the proper way to haul boats. I had a 19' long tandem sea kayak that went coast to coast on my Yakima rack system. I have never lost a boat nor any issues with a properly adjusted rack,and bow and stern lines. I am enclosing a link to picture of my FIT hauling boats. Notice the bow lines as the prevent air lifting forces that may cause the boats to lift and release the rack. There are pictures there that show how to attach straps that allow bow lines to be attached to the FIT. I really hate when people come here and show others very bad judgement and influence others to do the same. Sorry for the rant and I know Phrancis is trying to do the right thing now. His photos of former boat hauling just tripped me for something all my coast to coast kayaking/canoeing friends would call him on too.

Phrancis PLEASE find a good rack system,adjust it properly,and add bow and stern lines for safety. I belong to a web page of paddlers from all over the world {paddling.net}and we all will thank you to haul your boat properly. Good luck to you, Paddle on.

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PaFitter

 

Thanks for all the info and suggestions. @ PaFitter, the pictures were not intended to suggest how to carry a kayak and I understand your safety concerns. What's not pictured, are the webbing loops tucked under the hood for bow lines. Also the foam blocks might not be physically attached to the roof, but they are attached to each other via bent conduit to keep them aligned and not slip in the windstream. More importantly, the straps wrapped around the circumference of the hull through deck rigging stops windsheer from passing trucks from torquing the boat sideways. Although it takes more time to load the boat and I'm cinching things tighter than normal, many years of perfecting this set up with several different sea kayaks has resulted in safe transport at hwy speeds every time. Because the boat is strapped to the roof and not a detachable rack it's actually very solid and highly unlikely that all three straps or cambuckles would fail.

Most of my kayaking friends only use two straps for the rack. One had the tension spring in the cambuckle fail on the front strap and almost lost the boat and another had a whole rack with canoe fly off and hit a tree - and his van had beefy gutter rails. I'm very aware of the danger of an airborn kayak at highway speeds, but I assure you I wouldn't put lives or my handbuilt kayak at risk if I wasn't sure about this set up. btw I'm also on paddling.net

 

So has anyone actually bought a roof rack for a 2012 Fit? I ask because I just came from a highly respected local rack outfitter and they swear the roof line or shape of the roof/doors is ever so slightly different on the 2012 Fit (as opposed to 09-11 models) They said the big rack brands haven't relased clips for the 2012 model yet. Is this true?! I thought only sound insulation, VSC, the rims, and head lights were the only differences for 2012...

 

PaFitter, where did you get your bow lines or did you make them?

I am getting ready to start carrying 2 14' kayaks on Yakima racks on my '09 Fit. I like the idea of the bow lines attaching under the hood.

Do you get any wear on the hood paint from the straps?

 

Answering my own post --- I found another post from PaFitter where he addressed my question;

"They are regular nylon straps 16" long,and doubled to make a loop. An awe was used to make a hole in the strap,then pinched together, heated with a propane torch to harden/slightly melt them at the hole. A body bolt was used under the hood to secure them. They can be flipped out when in use, under edge of hood,or flipped inside when not. Tie downs are run through the loop. This set up will work on almost any car that has a secure bolt close to the edge of the fender. They can be made as long a you want,as long as they don't interfere with engine workings,or exhaust. Strap is 1" wide nylon strapping I used from another to long strap I have and cut off. Strap strength is 150lbs,and the 1/4" nylon tie ropes I use is 120lbs. The bracket they are mounted on will flex ,but with hood closed it won't and I can rock the Fit and should hold up to 100lbs of pull."

He also said he did not experience any rubbing on the paint.

A great DIY idea! Should have it's own thread. Although, maybe it does...

 

My Bow lines are garden variety 1/4" nylon line,available at any hardware or Home Depot or Lowes. Make sure you choose the diameter that holds twice the weight of the kayak.{my case 120lbs of pull strength} This is because you are also fighting force of the wind of forward travel{say 65mph} weight of kayak,lift of wind traveling over your hood and windshield and upwards,and any side gusts generated by trucks,crosswinds,etc. The way I use mine is through the fender loops and around the front carry handles of each canoe,and a sliding hitch knot on it's self to tighten.{you may see that in the pictures link} Your kayaks will be easier as they probably have carry loops on the bow & stern. Tie them together at some point as to isolate each kayak,but share a common tie point ,if that makes sense. You don't want one kayak flapping back and forth while the other is solid. It's the moving kayak that will loosen or remove the rack system if jerking around in the wind.

My anchor point idea goes back many years as a solution for canoeists,and kayakers. I have used this on a variety of cars in the last 12-15years. Just about will work on any car that has some kind of bolt under the hood you can attach straps to. Just have to make the loops longer if your bolts are farther inside the engine compartment. BTW, the nylon straps should also have at least double the weight of the kayak weight too. Nylon strapping can be bought at most any outdoor outfitters,Cabela's,Bass Pro, Eastern Mountain Sports, REI,etc. Maybe even your local hardware store?? 1" may be the minimum width,but no need for anything over 2". Lawn chair webbing will be to light{trust me I seen it used though}.

Sorry to all the posters that I may come across as a hard ass about bow and stern lines,and good racks. Over 30 years I have seen my share of ejected kayaks and canoes doing serious damage to following cars/trucks/busses/property that didn't use bow and stern lines,good strapping,or used foam blocks. Not to mention the loss of your boat. IT IS IMPORTANT that you use the best rack system you can afford,and tie downs. Foam blocks,and a cheap straps are asking for trouble. Foam blocks compress,in heat even worse,straps loosen and the boat slips away. The bow line prevent the boat from slipping rearward,and even forward if the rack/foam blocks fails. Think of a 65lb kayak flying through the air at 65mph into YOUR windshield if a mere stone can break your windshield.

BTW, any poster/s ever get up to south central Pa. way to paddle,hit me up,be glad to show you my lakes and rivers.

No paint rubbing on hood edges in 3 years and about 2000 miles of boat hauling. The straps Are almost verticle in the gap between hood and fender. Tied tight they don't flutter if you put a twist in the loop. If you leave standing flat they do hum if wind conditions are right. That goes for hull straps,put a twist in them to prevent wind hum,that can drive you nuts.

Webshots Rides offers thousands of the best car wallpapers.

PaFitter

 

Advice? Dont do it. the fit looks turbo gay with one...

 

Go with Thule.

I shopped around and did a lot of research in the hopes of saving myself some money but is it really worth it to damage your car, kayak, or injure someone on the road? Thule knows what they are doing. Don't cut corners.

They are expensive but I think there is some peace of mind to be had with them.

I have a smaller kayak (9 ft I think?) and I think I could've gotten away with putting it inside the Fit! But I don't like tying the back hatch down and I wouldn't be able to have passengers. Still, pretty incredible that I could fit it in there considering the size of the car. An impressive vehicle.

 

(I have a 2010 Sport.)