HI EVERYBODY,
i bought my 2010 Honda Fit Sport exactly 2 years ago and i have about 40 thousand miles.

I HAVE MANUAL GEAR TRANSMISSION

Last month i started noticing a squeeky noise when i take off from standing... (Squeek i mean like a metal scraping sound that is very deep... considering the Clutch is submerged in Oil, imagine to hear a car Horn from Under Water)

At the beginning it was happening only under the rain... but now that it's really cold it does it all the times.

I believe it is mostly a clutch slipping issue as if i pop the clutch quicker, it does not squeek at all.


SO I BELIEVE I NEED TO CHANGE THE CLUTCH

WHAT BRAND WOULD YOU GUYS SUGGEST?


Considering the Stock Honda Clutch left me after less than 40 thousand miles when in my life i always did well over 90-100 thousand miles with a single clutch, i would like to go with something aftermarket that is more reliable.


PLEASE KEEP IN MIND THAT I AM A SPORTY DRIVER

I have 118hp on this Fit... i like to use them all as you cna see on this Video:

" Honda Fit Sport takeoff 0-100mph (160Kph) - YouTube "

"


So, at the moment i have been looking at these:

SPEC Steel Carbon Clutch Kit: " SPEC Performance Clutches | Performance Parts | Aftermarket Accessories | Auto Car Parts "

SACHS Performance Clutch Kit: " Sachs Clutch Kit - JCWhitney "


well, as i said, i never had to change a Clutch in my Life, so really, right now i am flying blind... if you guys can suggest me something better... i will be thank full for any info

HAPPY NEW YEAR

 

Wouldn't it suck if you changed your clutch and it was still squeaking and it turned out that wasn't your problem at all?

In for answers since I think sometime in the life of my car I will need to buy a new clutch.

 

Wow. My brain hurts just from reading that. There is just so much wrong I don't even know where to begin.

The clutch is not submerged in oil. This is not a motorcycle.. what even gave you that idea?

If your clutch was slipping, the engine would simply speed up and the car would not accelerate.

It sounds like you are experiencing increased engagement chatter. And if you pop the clutch with a clutch thats not grabbing (I.E. slipping) you wouldn't go anywhere and would just burn up the disc. So that rules that out.

I would bet your throwout bearing is gone, which is at 40k seems unlikely. Unless you are extremely incompetent with a manual and ride the pedal all the time.

Maybe post a video or some audio. What you are describing does not match the symptoms you should be experiencing.

Also, stay away from Sachs. Go with Spec, Exedy or another reputable group.

If you insist on changing it instead of doing some diagnosis and this is your first time changing a clutch, and you are not especially handy with tools or mechanically inclined it can take anywhere from the book time of 8-9 hours, to several days or more. Based on your post I am inclined to lean more towards the latter.

You will need: a torque wrench, lock-tight, alignment dowels, a basic full mechanics socket set, new cotter pins, a bottle of DOT hydraulic fluid for the clutch (enough to be able to re-bleed) a throw-out bearing and retaining clip, moly lube for the input shaft tunnel the TOB slides on as well as for the hub splines on the disc and a hoist because without a lift theres almost no way in hell you're going to be able to do this with the engine in the car when the car is on the ground propped on jackstands LOL

In which case you will have to pull all the fluid hoses off the motor and the wiring harness. So buy some coolant and PS fluid as well. Make sure you bag and seal everything. Organize your bolts, if you have to label all the plugs on the harness.

Bring a helmet, its gonna be a bumpy ride!

This is probably the most appropriate option for a stock Fit:
http://www.autotuningstore.com/SPEC_...ory--1665.html

Good luck!

 

some truly sincere advice here:
Find a mechanic/shop that you can form a relationship with, and ask their advice. Since it looks like you're looking to be sportier, look for a shop that is more tuner oriented.

 

Shh.. I want to see carnage pics.

 

I'm just here for the part-out.

 

Yea that's a good point, if this guy takes this thing apart by himself I have at least 20:1 it's staying apart.

 

Thank you for clarifying some things Diamond, there were quite a few 'wtfs' in that first post. You did miss a few additional things that would be needed to properly replace the clutch, but I'm sure everyone got the main point, that it's a buttload of work.

Also you mentioned PS (powersteering?) fluid, but I know that you know the Fit has electronic power steering, so either I'm just reading it wrong or you just put that there on accident.

You won't lose any coolant during a clutch replacement, or at least on the GD3. The only fluid you'll have to replace is the transmission fluid. But I'd suggest you also bleed and replace the clutch fluid if you're replacing the clutch.

And it is a pain in the ass, but you can do this job in your home garage. Having a lift and a transmission jack would obviously be ideal, but if you're pretty strong and have someone helping, you can lift our puny transmission with your bare hands and you can position/tilt the engine using your arms or legs.

I don't know if you really need a new clutch crazyste. You said it's a squeak, but that it's like a deep metallic scraping sound. So is it squeaking? Or is it making a deep metallic scraping sound?

If it's just squeaking but there are no other symptoms, I'd say just let it be. It could be just that the lube in one or more of the clutch linkage joints has gotten old, or it's been worn out of the way, leading to a squeak. I had a squeak in my original clutch for a few years, it was never a problem.

If it's a metallic grinding sound, then it could be a few things, but you'd have to take apart the clutch to find out.

 

Blah, yes the Fit has electric PS assist. Force of habit lol Fortunately now that I have a manual rack on the 1G I no longer have to deal with that sillyness.

But if he has to pull the engine because he doesn't have a lift at home, the coolant indeed will need to be drained. I don't like having the car high enough on stands to pull the trans. But that is just me, doesn't feel safe.

Clutch fluid is coming out to because you have to disconnect the line to the slave from the MC...

The Fit MT is very light you are correct.

The clutch on my car has chattered from day one, perhaps a bit louder now. The only squeak I have is on slow release of the pedal and I attribute that to the pedal bushings getting a good work out everyday for 4 years.

What clutch did you replace the OE with, Doc?

 

Yea I had the car pretty high on jackstands, but I also put my wheels underneath the car in case the stands gave way, because you're right, it doesn't look nor feel safe at all haha.

I didn't have to disconnect any line from the master cylinder to the slave when I did mine. Everything stayed intact and connected. The only fluid I had to replace was the MTF. And I had already bled and replaced the clutch fluid the day before I started the clutch work.

I've got a Spec Stg. 1 Organic clutch and Spec flywheel in mine. I freaking love it, but it does seem to get exponentially more difficult to drive for each passenger I add to the car, so I kind of hate it too haha. It's a tradeoff I suppose. I seriously thought I was the best manual transmission driver in the world until I put this stuff in. I'm sorta getting the hang of it nowadays, but again, once you throw in a passenger or more, all bets are off lol.

 

Yea that's the exact circumstance under which I had a squeak too.

I don't know what it is with the Fit, but I had a chatter in with my OEM clutch/flywheel too - and for a lonnnnng long long time. After I eventually replaced all that, the chatter was gone, but once my new clutch was broken in, the chatter came back. It actually came back exactly 500 miles after installation LMAO. A hard launch or two puts the chatter away for several days, but then it just slowly comes back. I'm hypothesizing maybe it has to do with friction material build-up on the flywheel and pressure plate surfaces? I typically drive as slow as a senior citizen.

I'm over it though, I mean, the chatter and I are well-acquainted now, and I can just adjust my driving style to get around it. It's just part of the car I suppose, maybe not the clutch? Maybe it's our soft OEM mounts, or maybe this kit's pressure plate is just as mismatched as our OEM kit's?

This is the most temperamental car I've known since the 3rd gen RX7. But most of us who know this chatter also know how to get around it by adjusting our driving style, so whatever.

 

Ya, as far as fluids I usually do everything when I am in there out of habit. I have braided SS lines now from the CMC to the slave when I deleted the CDV, so I probably could do it without draining, but oh well.

I'm guessing your replacement is a sprung hub disc? If its a full-face organic that seems likely, I blame the hub for the noise in mine.

It's a quirky little car thats for sure, and I will actually be re-installing the delay valve when the car goes on kill mode in the hopes of saving the clutch/input shaft/gear teeth/cv-shafts go figure.

For some reason I love the harder clutches, but your right they do not often provide a smooth ride. Especially when you are trying to just be smooth, and then when you hesitate they like to make you look like a noob.

At least these don't mike as much noise as a twin/triple plate with all the friction steels and everyone around you in traffic looks at your car like its broken lol

My driving is about 85% grandma-after-church on sunday in the rain, and the other 15% is a bit more spirited. So a nice balance.

I would be curious into talking to the ine folks over at SouthBend Clutch to see if they could make me a pucked cerametallic or carbon/kevlar full face disc...

 

Make sure the clutch you buy is for the GE and not the GD. The SPEC clutch says from 2007-2011 on their website, but the part numbers for the stock components from Honda are different for the disk, pressure plate and flywheel. Only thing the same is the throwout bearing.

The only real similarity between the GD and GE is the name Fit and that they are 5 door station wagons.

Just sent an email to SPEC about the Fit applications. Same part number for all model years on their page. I would like to give the Stage 5 a go if it will indeed work. I don't need the sprung hub. I wish I could get back that rattle sound I had in the 5R, had an ORC carbon in it and loved that clutch. Unfortunately nobody makes a full single kit for the GE, the flywheel is the issue for whatever reason.

 

Yup!

YES, I have definitely been made to look like a noob a few times.

 

I'm just punching in to follow this...

 

With threads like this springing up I feel bad that I've been cheating on this forum with a sexier, more experienced forum lately.

 

It's alright DSM, sometimes "cougars" are just what is needed in one's life.

 

MMhmmm and the hunt is on! Wise words..

 

[quote=DiamondStarMonsters;
My driving is about 85% grandma-after-church on sunday in the rain, and the other 15% is a bit more spirited. So a nice balance.
[/quote]

Yup DSM, I think you are cheating when you say this too! "85% grandma-after church on Sunday" for some reason that doesn't fly... I think you had the 85% flip-flopped with the 15%

 

Eh sometimes I give the Fit a work out, but when I am NA I don't really feel a reason too.

Though driving slow cars fast is more fun, I try not to do it on public roads.

When I have more power under my foot I tend to be pretty restrained as well. Especially cruising on a nice day.