So I have to take advantage of this weather in NJ tomorrow to:

1) replace the shocks, install some swifts springs I've been sitting on, maybe
2) replace the brakes and brake fluid.

Must do the shocks and springs, then take it to a shop to

3) replace tie rods (since I dont think I have the tools for it) and
4)perform an alignment (less than 1 mile away).

After all that I'll tackle replacing the PCV valve (4?)and maybe even valve adjustment(5???).....(the cowl will be off and this might be a good time for the adjustment, most likely not )


I am looking through the INFAMOUS DIY for springs (one of the best I've read on here), and I see in step 12 he recommends cutting the bump stop. Will I need to do that?

Also if anyone has any advice specific for a GE8 please chime in. While I've never done this before, I am adventurous, and see this isnt so hard, though the axle popping out is something I am preparing for.

I've be playing some MW3 tonight so I hope to see some fit freakers on here.

Thank you all in advance for helping me and so many others that might be considering doing the same this spring.

 

ummm.. what struts and shocks are you putting in there? i wasn't sure which shocks would work best with the swift springs.

 

You don't need to cut the bump stops if you're using swifts. That step is only really for other lowering springs (that go lower than the swifts). But definitely get a spring compressor to use when dismantling the front strut tower (not really needed to put the swift on, just when taking the old off).

MW3?!? MechWarrior3 is pretty old! (>.<)

 

Yea, what shocks are available for the fit. I hear the tokico blues aren't any better than the stock ones.

 

Mechwarrior...those were the days lol!!!!

Thanks for the advice, picked up a cheap set of spring compressors from harbor freight.

About the shocks and struts: partsgeek had kyb's excel-g's...- know they are far from badass but if I can get the feel of the orginals again combined with swifts and my progress rsb, I think my daily driving habits will be satisfied. I have 78k on it and its gotten a bit sloppy (ergo the need for tie rods and an alignment afterwards). The money I save by doing the shocks myself will go towards that or a valve adjustment (if I punk out)

MW3- modern warfare 3 ps3 tag infamous_xero for those that play....

Thanks guys...

 

wtf! I am a bit stuck....those two 3/4 bolts on the strut assembly are EXTREMELY tight!!!!

were any of you able to get these off without an impact wrench. If so any words of advice? I worried about stripping those bolts

 

They shouldn't be that hard to get off - only ~76 lb-ft.

Try some penetrating lubricant like PB Blaster or WD40 if they're corroded together.

Are you using short little wrenches? If you haven't already, try using longer ones. With more leverage, it'll be a lot easier.

And why do you think you need new tie rods?

 

biggest piece of advice... don't let your axle knuckles come apart inside the boot! they are a PITA to get back together. took me longer to do that than install the springs!! just zip tie them up while you work.

 

jnesselroad:

how can you tell if it fell out inside the boot? I used straps and a jack to hold it up and keep it from rotating. From what I can tell it didnt but aligning the damper bolts on the drivers side was a PITA.....

DoctorDoom:

I'm thinking of having the shop check the tie rods when I go in for an alignment. I think they are due because of the miles I have on them , the small amount of bump steer I'm feeling when on roads with groves or dips, and today when I was checking the boot I noticed I can rotate them above the boot (left and right). Not sure if its normal so I'll have the pros handle that.

update: I'm still doing it.....crap is taking forever. I guess I suck since so many others were able to knock this out in 3 hrs...

 

if you got everything to bolt back in, you probably did fine. you would've noticed if it fell out. jack and straps would do the trick. the rears will only take you about 45 min for both if you jack the car up in the center in the back (you'll see a silver metal square under where your spare tires sit that is a jack point)

 

It took maybe 30 minutes to do the rear (on day one, just enough time before having to go pick up my mom from the airport).

but something like 5 hours to do the front (on day two).

if you don't already have one... get a ratcheting box end wrench...

also, with what doctordoom said... get a nice long ratcheting wrench (box end)... and THEN a pair of long pipes that can fit over the wrench and whatever you are using for the allen tool (I hate that thing... so small).

lay the strut on the ground and shove the bottom end of the strut against something fairly stable. put the box end wrench onto the nut, then add the allen tool.

put one pipe on the allen tool, and another on the box end.... position them so that you can pull on one pipe while using the ground to hold the other (still have to step on the pipe to prevent it from moving).

 

so either my hands are too beat up from doing the front yesterday...or the wheel lugs were super tight because I could get them off and gave up and dropped it at the shop (had to get the alignment done anyway).

sucks to only do half....but the front swifts feel great. Cant wait to get my car back.