There's a TSB on the fuel door. (it's in the TSB sticky thread.) Don't know if yours is in the group of years/vins but it gives the repair procedure.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by SevereService

I just went outside to see my fuel door is acting funky. I think something might have broken off. This will probably be covered under the warranty.
For those who believe the warranty is a waste of cash...you have probably never worked in the service department at a dealership or at a mechanical shop. Things do go wrong with cars and whatever goes wrong will be fixed somewhere in the neighborhood of 90-105 per hour. The average bill is usually 300-400. Now if nothing goes wrong thats great, but if that were the case then these mechanical shops and service departments would not be in business.
Ive owned a lot of cars over my lifetime and things usually do go wrong. There are, of course, those stories out there of guys going a million miles without any major service calls, but I can tell you confidently they are the exception.

shill

 
noun 1. a person who poses as a customer in order to decoy others into participating, as at a gambling house, auction, confidence game, etc.

2. a person who publicizes or praises something or someone for reasons of self-interest, personal profit, or friendship or loyalty.

 

[Fry.jpg] can't tell if shill or useful idiot

 

In my area of the country, the average price is actually $16600 for a 2012 Base Fit with an automatic. "Out the door" pricing including tax, registration and fees makes the price go to $18500.

New 2012 Honda Fit Price Quote w/ MSRP, Dealer Cost & Invoice

Going Sport bumps up the price another 2 grand and then going Navigation bumps the price up to around 20000 and thats just the price...not the "out the door" price.

The real out the door prices are:

Base Fit- $18500
Sport Fit- $20313
Navigation Fit- $22547

The above prices is if you payed cash for the Fit. Now if you decided to finance it then you are looking at probably a few grand in interest over time.

My experience is usually the engine or transmission doesnt go...its usually an expensive sensor like TPMS sensor or a switch like the fan control. If you add it up all together over time then it adds up. However, there is always a possibility that the transmission will go or even the engine. A remote possibility, but its happened to people in most every car.

Im not a shill or a useful idiot. Im simply telling you my experience. I fully expect for another sensor or electrical switch to go out in time. Its already 1000 miles past the factory warranty, what will happen later?

 

The case for short term ownership is pretty clear cut:

Trade before the bumper to bumper warranty runs out. Extended warranties don't add to the trade-in value of the car.

The case for "normal" long term ownership is pretty straightforward:

As an owner of 10 year old toyotas and hondas, the fun and games doesn't really begin until more than 150K. And then it's $300 here, $200 there. Engines and transmissions are pretty bulletproof these days. CV joints, radiators, ABS, exhaust, struts/shocks: not so much.

The major items are covered while payments are being made (they are covered under the 5 year 60k power train warranty). It's highly unlikely you'll have $800 in "small" repairs during this period.

Beyond this 5 years 60K it's a balancing act between replacing the car or repairing. Repairs win (even if it's a case of dropping in a used engine/transmission).

At some point though the car is decrepit and repairs are excessive.

Rinse and repeat.

There is a third case where you put far more miles on the car than the average driver:

There's a window between 60 and 100K where your ass is hanging out there while you're still making payments. For an extended warranty to be cost effective you have to anticipate a major power train failure. It might be worth it, but buy online after you purchase the car and not from the frikin F&I guy. this is the truth.

 

But switches and sensors are relatively cheap, compared with the extended warranty cost. Especially since you are out of warranty and can use any mechanic to fix those sorts of things.

 

OP, your threads make me laugh. Here is another data point for you. My fit has 113k on it, and nothing has broken other than a map light bulb. How would I have fared? Haha.

Two words: self insure.

 

Yeah, but at the dealer it's a $1200 map light bulb.

 

I'm old enough to remember when you could not buy a extended warranty. Most cars had a 90 day warranty. Oil was changed every 1000, miles. I did lots of long trips with the old cars and don't recall having any unusual problems that kept me from completing my trips.

Today cars are much more reliable and don't require lots of maintenance. I did purchase a extended warranty on a 80 Toyota Tercel. It later had a transmission oil leak. Called the dealer, their answer, "was read your policy, oil leaks aren't covered". I cancelled my policy and got a few $ back. Since 1980 I have 10 or 12 new cars. No extended warranty an any of them, never needed one. I do my own maintenance.

If you feel you must have a extended warranty, I have a suggestion. I assume many of you are not paying cash for your cars. In that case you will have to pay interest on the cost of your warranty. When you do the paperwork on your car, request payment costs for no warranty and with warranty. Calculate the difference and record that figure. Buy the car with no warranty.

Go to your savings institution (bank, credit union, etc) and set up a savings account. When you make a car payment pay your savings account the amount you found to be the difference between the two costs. You will not have to pay for any repairs for at least the length of the bumper to bumper coverage. This gives you time to build up your repair fund. Keep paying into the fund until you finish paying for the car.

Don't spend that money for anything except what would be covered by your extended warranty. In most cases you will not have to spend that money.

I know that many of you are saying you purchased a bumper to bumper extended warranty. I suggest yo ask to see a copy of the policy, read it carefully and ask some questions. My point is that a policy would be very expensive if it's a provides true bumper to bumper coverage.

Good luck on whatever you decide.

Clifton
2011 Fit Sport automatic. No extended warranty
2008 Mazda 3i with touring value package. No extended warranty.
1986 Porsche 944.