Agree, except for the chinese dig, cause Brembos are made in china now too.

So pick a good name brand; but you shouldn't be surprised to see anything other than Made in China.

Also, the factory mill is going to be more precise than the lathe they have at any brakeshop, so don't waste your money on resurfacing rotors if a new rotor is close in price. Yes, we live in a throw-away society

 

Rotors get good money when scrapped.

 

If a car goes into a dealer at 8K with no problem and comes out with shaking upon braking, it is a near certainty that the lug nuts were over tightened, particularly if the wheels were rotated which obviously requires the lug nuts to be removed. Over tightened lug nuts can definitely cause the rotors to warp. Lug nuts should be tightened with a torque wrench to 80 lb.-ft. on the Fit. Retorqueing might reverse the problem if done right away. My 2009 Fit with 53K has brakes that work as well as when the car was new--not a hint of shimmy. I change to snows and back myself and use a torque wrench and recheck after a couple of days and they often tighten another 1/4 turn or so.

A very aggressive driver using lots of braking can cause the rotors to warp, particularly if they are very hot and you drive through a puddle. The key here, if I understand correctly, is that before the dealer saw the car, it was OK, but not after.

Loose lug nuts would give noise and shimmy whether braking or not.

 

Its not so much overtiorquing but uneven torquing that warps rotors.
When done correctly wheel nuts are finger tightened to snug then torqued in two steps to 80 lb-ft aviding as much as possible, and on a 4 bolt pattern thats hard, tightening two immediately adjacent lugnuts. Thed techs that tighten lugs in a circle, 1,2,3, and 4 are trying to warp rotors.

 

They are call Udders not Unders , you cow

 

Who you call'n a cow? mOOOOOOOOOOOOOO

 

I think you guys are all overthinking this a little. To me if a car comes into a dealer with no issues found as a used car. That used car sits out on the lot for several months and the rotors get rusted. now you have a low spot where the rotor did not rust where the pads were sitting. This will cause serious pulsation in the brakes and since its in the front the pulsation is felt in the steering wheel (shaking). If you noticed this after picking up the car as you say you did sean, i suggest taking the car back in right away.

 

The problem with a vehicle sitting for a 'long' time is not so much rust but the pad getting stuck to the rotor and when jerked into motion leaves considerable pad material stuck to thr rotor. While rust wears away fairly quickly the pad material takes a long time and that buildup will introduce severe pulsations, ie shaking.
The cure is replace the pads and have the rotors turned the minimum amount that gets smooth surfaces. If that means rotor thickness less than minimum spec, typically 18.7 mm, replace the rotors.
On the other hand, did the car exhibit that shaking on a test drive before plunking down the money? After you bought it did it sit for a 'long' time?

 

exactly my point. sounds like it exhibited this trait from the get-go (ie-when he bought it).