Outfitting 2012 Fit for towing behind motorhome - Unofficial Honda FIT Forums

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Old 07-28-2012, 12:43 AM
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: USA wide traveling in the RV
Posts: 86
Outfitting 2012 Fit for towing behind motorhome

I am a retired full time RV traveler, and recently bought a 2012 Fit Sport auto trans. I need the automatic due to a left ankle injury that is worsening over time. The auto Fit is towable at 65mph 8 hours, then repeat procedures for towing for more time/distance.

I finally received the tow bar brackets and wiring kit today to prep for towing behind the motorhome. The Blue Ox brackets were back ordered, which is why I just now received the shipment.

All I did today in prep was to take the tail lights out of the back of the car for fitting the extra bulb kit. Inside rear hatch take cover off over the tail lights. Remove 3 nuts, detach the 3 sets of bulbs, and pull tail light housing straight back.

Rather than use diodes, I installed a new dual element bulb in each side for towing tail lights, and combo brake/turn signals.
Bulb kit: Blue Ox - BX8869

Using a one inch hole saw (drill bit), I drilled the one inch hole, then inserted the new bulb fixture. Location to drill is in this pdf page 3: http://www.blueox.us/Uploads/Docs/BX225.pdf . This pdf also shows the install for the actual towing bracket kit.

There was plenty of room for both the new bulb and original tail/brake light bulb, and good clearance from the lens cover as well.

My next step will be to run the 4 wire ribbon wiring from the front of the car to the rear of the car. I will try and use the path in this video on youtube:

They used the diode method, but the wire run should be identical. I don't know if I will do this in the campground by driving up on wood for more clearance, then try and wiggle under, or drive over to the Navy base nearby and rent a bay in the auto hobby shop in order to use a lift.

While I am in there doing the tail light lens mod, I am stuffing polyfill with fire retarding agent in it below, above, and sideways from the tail lights into the sheet metal cavity and between metal and plastic surround for some sound deadening. Closed cell foam would likely work better, but polyfill is cheap and readily available and "should" be better than no deadening at all.

I also need to get the tow bar brackets installed in the next week, and will do some protective screening over the AC condensor while I am in there.

Perform the following procedure
every day immediately before you
begin towing. Otherwise severe
automatic transmission damage will

Towing procedure after connecting to the motorhome towbar:

1. Check the transmission fluid level
(see page 261). Do not overfill.

2. Start the engine.

3. Press on the brake pedal. Move
the shift lever through all its

4. Shift to the D position and hold for
5 seconds, then to N. Let the
engine run for 3 minutes, then turn
it off.

5. Put key in accessory position, release park brake.

Severe transmission damage will occur
if the vehicle is shifted from reverse to
neutral and then towed with the drive
wheels on the ground.
Repeat procedures every 8 hours if towing long distance.
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Old 07-29-2012, 01:10 AM
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: USA wide traveling in the RV
Posts: 86
Today I installed the tow bar bracket system, and some cross hatch fencing material to protect the AC condensor since I had the front fascia and metal bumper removed for the install.

Had to temporarily remove the windshield washer tank system bolts to lift it up out of the drill bit path.

The toughest part of the install is popping the front fascia loose at the wheel wells, and under the headlights. Also cutting some of the plastic members in the grill so the tow bar can protrude where needed, and trimming a bit of plastic on the fog lights for more clearance to the tow bar.

I'm glad this part of the install is over - tough working in a campground on wet ground and a slope. Drove the front wheels up on 2 2*6 boards for a little more clearance to pop loose the plastic plugs.

All thats left now is the lights 4 wire ribbon wiring front to back, installing the front "outlet" tap, tapping in to the taillight wiring kit I already installed yesterday. I am also installing a trickle charge positive line from the motorhome to the Honda. Had one on the Subaru I traded in, so have the circuit breaker(s) and wiring already.
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Old 08-18-2012, 10:51 PM
5 Year Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Dallas
Posts: 29
did you take any pics? my buper popped out of place on the side next to tire and i cant figure out how to get it back in
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Old 08-18-2012, 11:15 PM
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: USA wide traveling in the RV
Posts: 86
I did not take any pics. I installed a blue ox tow bar kit, but the following link shows video of a roadmaster tow bar install. My internet is super slow here, butI think this video "might" show you the attachment clips:

The instructions for the tow bar kit mentions the clips as well" http://www.blueox.us/Uploads/Docs/BX225.pdf

I think your clips might be broken if it wont pop right back into place. Line it up, then "Pop" it a good one with your hand right on the edge and see if the clips re-engage.
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2010, 2012, attachment, bracket, car, emergency, fit, honda, mileage, motorhome, rv, setup, tow, towed, towing

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