Hi,

Today I installed a console in my 2012 Base Fit (took about 2 hours; good luck finding a 20mm hole saw) and found that I couldn't put the auto tranny in neutral AND take out the key. Removing/replacing the console requires the tranny to be in neutral, but it was very annoying listening to the key-is-in-the-ignition beep. Is there a way to do this? I can conceive of wanting the car in neutral sometimes with the key out of it.

GaryK

 

I believe there is a little plug on the Auto Trans "surround" that can be removed. your key will fit in there and allow you to move the shifter. double-check the manual on this as I'm sure there is a way and I know it mentions this. I have the 5sp manual trans.

~SB

 

Thank you. I will look at that right now.

GaryK

 

That was it. THANKS!

GaryK

 

20 mm is .78 inch. that's really close to .75 inch. Fyi

 

hum......?

 

A 3/4 inch hole saw works instead of a 20mm one.

 

I used a 3/4" spade bit and just went really slowly. Worked perfectly.

And yes, almost all automatics have the nutral over ride somewhere.

 

hummm...check amazon next time.

Amazon.com: 20 mm hole saw

 

i use Forstner bits for making larger holes in my car. very clean cut.

 

Thanks, all. I finally did use a 3/4", and it did work fine. Such a small hole saw is not a common tool, not something everyone has around the house or garage, so anyone wanting to add a console should get one before starting on the project. (Of course I should have made sure I had everything before I started.)

My console kit came without instructions. For anyone wanting to do this, video instructions can be found here


and written instructions can be found here

http://www.bernardiparts.com/Images/...e_AII45981.pdf

Some tips for the (like me) mechanically lame:

The transmission has to be in neutral to remove/replace the console. For an automatic, there is a very small access slot in the "surround" that encloses the shifter. Pry this out and press your key or a slotted screwdriver into the hole, and you will be able to move the shifter without having the key in the ignition.

After removing the rear screw and two front clips, the console is held in place by a single, plastic fastener in its exact geographic center. It's stubborn and will feel like you've missed a screw or bolt. Just pull firmly upward, and it will pop off. Don't lose that fastener--it can come out of its holder in the bottom of the console--and make sure it's in place when putting the console back on. It fell out as I was replcacing the console, and I had to re-remove the console, locate the fastener, slide it back in place, then re-reinstall the console.

After you first remove the console, one of the early steps is to unbolt and replace the hand-brake bracket. Release the hand-brake before you take out these bolts, and keep a firm grip on them as you're pulling them out. They can slip down into a cavity beneath the carpet behind the hand-brake and then be difficult to retrieve. When replacing these bolts after replacing the bracket, use a screwdriver in the rear-most hole to align the new bracket with the bolt holes. Otherwise tension from the hand-brake cables will pull the hand-brake cable-fitting forward a bit and block the bolt holes.

Finally, the last step will be to bolt the bottom rear of the console to the shallow tunnel between the seats. You will need to press on the armrest to align the bolt holes.

Installing this took me three hours including lunch and a trip to Lowe's to find a 20mm (ultimately 3/4") hole saw. I eventually used a 3/4" Forstner bit, and it made a very clean cut.

GaryK

 

yah, forstner bit FTW! just makes a cleaner hole.

 

ahhh... i see my mistake.

i went over the OP's message like two times before responding to you, but kept managing to miss the bit about finding a 20mm bit. So I had been wondering why you posted that.

As for myself, I used one of those multi-bits, the ones shaped roughly like a cone for you to make multiple sized holes. Each size would be a step up from the next.

My only issue with that bit was, once it was spinning, I wasn't sure which size was which. Sure, the starter hole would be easy at 3mm with it being the first or second size. But it was annoying trying to stare at it and figure out which size you're at somewhere in the middle of the bit.

I'm sure the more experienced folks (my dad, carpenters, etc tool wielders) wouldn't have a problem with it. But I was about as green as it gets.

What I ended up doing to avoid going too far, was get some bits of plastic (like from a bag), and wrapped it around the next size up and just hoped I didn't push too hard and go right past it.

Apparently, it's called a "step-bit" (duh?)... haha. And the guy in this video pretty much did the same thing using tape on the size... Using a Step Drill Bit to Drill Different Size Holes | Today's Homeowner

edit: and yes, I had to use the standard size and do some math to actually "get" 3 mm and 20 mm.

 

I put that in there because I was assuming people might find these posts when searching for info on installing a Fit console, and I wanted to point out to them the need to have a suitable hole-making tool BEFORE starting the install rather than, as I did, needing to run around trying to find it DURING the install.

GaryK

 

But putting your car back together just enough to get to the store and back is half the fun of doing your own work!